sidekick_1134

So my blower motor went or so it seems, i can feel the cold air coming into the housing the fan obviously isnt working. the transister isnt fried anyone have any ideas of any other problem it could be before i take it in

gizmotoy

I believe the blower motor has its own fuse. You may want to inspect it. If it's not blown, try replacing it with one of the spares first, as sometimes it's hard to tell.

If that doesn't help, it probably needs replaced and it'd be time to talk to the dealership.

sidekick_1134

yea, checked all the fuses already.... id like to fix it myself but since its still under warrenty...

aestival

I'm having the exact same problem on my 2009 Ralliart. It's at the dealer today, but seems likely that it's the blower motor. Of course, it's always possible that something has managed to get into the vents, but my money's on the motor (hopefully they won't try to shaft me on the warranty, though it's not an expensive repair regardless). I'm annoyed at Mitsubishi for not having a 5-cent sensor in place to monitor whether the blower is actually blowing. They do electronics well, so that one should have been a no-brainer, and this is a major safety issue, if your interior ventilation fails while driving on a highway in the rain. Luckily for me, mine failed close to home, since it was humid and raining at the time.

[for those who have never experienced this issue: aside from the shame of having to drive with your windows rolled down, this prevents you from driving in humid rainy conditions, so not having ventilation is a pretty serious problem, even in summer]

aestival

Blown blower motor plus resistor -- there's a service bulletin out for the issue and it's not a completely uncommon Lancer repair (OK, I have a 2009 Ralliart and I'm in Canada, so this is potentially OT in an Evo forum). Nice to not have to pay for the repair, but I still say Mitsubishi should add a cheap flow monitor to confirm blower operation, given how annoying it is when it fails.

justin81

iTrader: (14)

Hate to bring up an old thread but my air blower went out this morning. Has anyone replaced this part themselves??

boost10

Im thinking I mite have the same problem. Is it that the blower motor doesnt work entirely or is it that the air coming out is very weak unless you have it on full blast? (This is the issue Im currently having)

justin81

iTrader: (14)

I don't get anything at all. If you put your hand on the vent you can feel the heat or cold but it's not blowing at all. You don't even hear the fan kick on. I'm going to check a few more things before I take it the dealer.

sidekick_1134

My problem was the resistor, get that check the motor could still be good

blazersman

iTrader: (34)

Add another one to the list... mine went out yesterday. Figures, it's the coldest it's been this year and my heat's gone, awesome! My problem is like the one above... I can barely feel the heat/AC come from the vents, but the fan doesn't click on.

Any suggestions or advice on what to look for? Where's the resistor/fuses that I need to check? I'm sure I can figure it out once I get out to the car, but I'd like to spend the least amount of time outside in the frigid cold (even in my garage) as I can!

08Lancer89

iTrader: (15)

You guys have Any pics mine just went out and in FL it sucks with no A/C in the summer.

emptiness

Mine too died today. No air blowing in the cabin. To dealership today.

jordantii

iTrader: (1)

Mine did the same thing. It was just the resistor. Drove into the dealer, 30 minutes later I was done. All under warranty and fast to repair.

aestival

This applies to a 2009 Ralliart, but it also appears to apply to 2009-2010 (and maybe 2011) Ralliarts and Evos, and perhaps even other Lancers. All I know is it worked on my 2009 Ralliart. I'm not a mechanic, which should become obvious really quickly here. The attached PDF should help a lot with figuring out where things are. I think the forum rules prohibit me from saying precisely where I got parts, but it was from a dealer in Miami who runs an excellent online parts shop. Mitsubishi part numbers are on the diagram; parts total about $300 for this repair.

The following is what I'd recommend if your blower stops working -- there are diagnostics that might save some money on parts, but you'll chew through that and more paying mechanics to diagnose the precise issue. Mine's gone twice, and while the first was a warranty repair, it would have cost a lot more to have a dealer mechanic do this.

1. Order a new fan & blower kit (blower motor), heater control transistor (blower resistor), and either order or buy a new air filter.
2. Take your glove compartment out. If you can't do that easily on your own, then stop right here and call a mechanic. Give them the parts, to save on the diagnosis.
3. Take out the air filter -- it's the slot above the blower motor and fan -- there are clips on either side. Your air filter's likely dirty, so throw it away (or clean it, if you prefer to save the environment by breathing dirtier air).
4. Remove the molding below the glove compartment space: there are two plastic rivets holding it in place -- pop out the middle of each rivet, and it will come off very easily, or just use brute force, and you'll likely cause only minimal damage to the rivets.
5. Disconnect the car battery -- not absolutely essential, but wise -- if you've never removed the cap from your battery, note that you have to lift off the air intake (this is very different on an Evo; this is for a Ralliart), and this involves popping two more plastic rivets -- they look like screws, but just pop up the heads and they'll pop out). If you don't know how to disconnect a car battery, then you're likely in over your head here (if you're winging it, then please do not disconnect the positive terminal at any point in this process).
6. Roll back the passenger seat, put the back down, and get in to the car so that your feet are pointing towards the back and your head and arms are under the dash -- make sure you read all the remainder and look at the diagram before proceeding through this step. You need a Philips (cross) head screwdriver, ideally a very short one.
7. There are three screws holding in the blower motor and two holding in the transistor, but you have to remove the blower motor first. There are also a few very similar screws on other parts that should not be touched. Keep a hand free to support it as you loosen the screws, but mine mostly held itself until the screws were out. Disconnect the blower and toss it somewhere where it can't be confused with the new part. Now remove the transistor, which is behind and slightly to the left of where the blower was. Disconnect the transistor and toss it somewhere as well. A broken transistor will not be easy to tell from the new part, so be very careful not to mix the parts up.
8. Reverse the process with the new parts; there's really nothing you can do wrong, though sadly I initially tried to put the new transistor in upside down (did I mention I'm no mechanic?)
9. Replace the air filter, the molding under the glove compartment, the glove compartment, and reconnect the battery.
10. Turn on the blower, and either enjoy a good repair, or curse me for costing you an hour and about $300 in unnecessary parts.

imhenryd

My heater just stopped working whenever I'm at idle, it will blow hot air once I'm driving, but whenever I come to a stoplight or am sitting at idle it blows cold air? Can Anyone help me out?