Hello...new here
Oct 26, 2010, 08:22 PM
#16
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I dont think you will hear your BOV as often in a SST equiped evo. While you're accelerating you dont lift off the throttle like you would in a manual evo to shift. As far as I know, the throttle body remains open during shifts on a SST equiped evo and will not create the vacuum needed to open the BOV (until you let off the gas). But correct me if i'm wrong.
ps: congrats on your purchase
ps: congrats on your purchase
Oct 27, 2010, 08:28 AM
#18
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Oct 27, 2010, 08:31 AM
#19
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You might think of getting away with A/S tires; not that they're fun in the summer, the do suck compared to the Yoko OEM tires, but they have some advantages over winter tires.
1) They tend to last a little better; you can then get more miles out of them if you're looking for efficient DD setup, even through warmer months
2) They have a lot better dry pavement performance most often over winter tires
Winter tires can accelerate and brake as well as A/S and almost universally handle lateral grip in the snow better. It's really up to you, but you should be aware that tires are probably the most expensive routine wear item on the car. Brakes are the next. Most folks are happy getting 12,000 miles +/- on their stockers.
1) They tend to last a little better; you can then get more miles out of them if you're looking for efficient DD setup, even through warmer months
2) They have a lot better dry pavement performance most often over winter tires
Winter tires can accelerate and brake as well as A/S and almost universally handle lateral grip in the snow better. It's really up to you, but you should be aware that tires are probably the most expensive routine wear item on the car. Brakes are the next. Most folks are happy getting 12,000 miles +/- on their stockers.
Oct 27, 2010, 08:56 AM
#20
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You might think of getting away with A/S tires; not that they're fun in the summer, the do suck compared to the Yoko OEM tires, but they have some advantages over winter tires.
1) They tend to last a little better; you can then get more miles out of them if you're looking for efficient DD setup, even through warmer months
2) They have a lot better dry pavement performance most often over winter tires
Winter tires can accelerate and brake as well as A/S and almost universally handle lateral grip in the snow better. It's really up to you, but you should be aware that tires are probably the most expensive routine wear item on the car. Brakes are the next. Most folks are happy getting 12,000 miles +/- on their stockers.
1) They tend to last a little better; you can then get more miles out of them if you're looking for efficient DD setup, even through warmer months
2) They have a lot better dry pavement performance most often over winter tires
Winter tires can accelerate and brake as well as A/S and almost universally handle lateral grip in the snow better. It's really up to you, but you should be aware that tires are probably the most expensive routine wear item on the car. Brakes are the next. Most folks are happy getting 12,000 miles +/- on their stockers.
Oct 27, 2010, 12:13 PM
#21
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LOL. I'm "tire poor", still milking Yoko W4S A/S's that I bought two years ago. If I had it "my way", I'd get another set of Z1's for average DD, but I don't really do average DD. I run 80 miles/day to-and-from work; so the need for something that grippy and stiff is pretty hard to justify. The W4S's btw are gonna probably last me in the neighborhood of 40,000 miles. They cost a bit under $150 IRC; I think it was $137 from the 'Rack. Now they're carrying the "ENvigor W tires taht are $164 ea but have a killer UTQG, probably rated to last 60,000 miles if I do the math right.
My constraint for a two-tire config that I flip/flop for the track and DD are the rims still. I haven't found rims that I both like and can afford.
Plus my local track is closing
But with that news, it makes my stakes higher when traveling long distances to tracks, and will almost certainly get some competition tires, but not sure if it'll take me one or two winters to save up enough for all the toys I want. (I know I push my car enough to justify coilovers now that I've learned to be smooth).
So my short list now is: tune; coilovers; rims, and competition tires. Dang, where to start!?!
My constraint for a two-tire config that I flip/flop for the track and DD are the rims still. I haven't found rims that I both like and can afford.
Plus my local track is closing
But with that news, it makes my stakes higher when traveling long distances to tracks, and will almost certainly get some competition tires, but not sure if it'll take me one or two winters to save up enough for all the toys I want. (I know I push my car enough to justify coilovers now that I've learned to be smooth).So my short list now is: tune; coilovers; rims, and competition tires. Dang, where to start!?!
Oct 27, 2010, 12:17 PM
#22
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Yeah, man...I'm already feeling it! I never should have logged onto the AMS web site LOL!
Speaking of which...what tends to be the most popular AMS exhaust kit/system? I'm not trying to go crazy spending money because I'm not going to race the Evo or anything, but I would like to hear my stock bov a little bit...or a lot lol!
Speaking of which...what tends to be the most popular AMS exhaust kit/system? I'm not trying to go crazy spending money because I'm not going to race the Evo or anything, but I would like to hear my stock bov a little bit...or a lot lol!
Oct 27, 2010, 12:18 PM
#23
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LOL. I'm "tire poor", still milking Yoko W4S A/S's that I bought two years ago. If I had it "my way", I'd get another set of Z1's for average DD, but I don't really do average DD. I run 80 miles/day to-and-from work; so the need for something that grippy and stiff is pretty hard to justify. The W4S's btw are gonna probably last me in the neighborhood of 40,000 miles. They cost a bit under $150 IRC; I think it was $137 from the 'Rack. Now they're carrying the "ENvigor W tires taht are $164 ea but have a killer UTQG, probably rated to last 60,000 miles if I do the math right.
My constraint for a two-tire config that I flip/flop for the track and DD are the rims still. I haven't found rims that I both like and can afford.
Plus my local track is closing But with that news, it makes my stakes higher when traveling long distances to tracks, and will almost certainly get some competition tires, but not sure if it'll take me one or two winters to save up enough for all the toys I want. (I know I push my car enough to justify coilovers now that I've learned to be smooth).
So my short list now is: tune; coilovers; rims, and competition tires. Dang, where to start!?!
My constraint for a two-tire config that I flip/flop for the track and DD are the rims still. I haven't found rims that I both like and can afford.
Plus my local track is closing
But with that news, it makes my stakes higher when traveling long distances to tracks, and will almost certainly get some competition tires, but not sure if it'll take me one or two winters to save up enough for all the toys I want. (I know I push my car enough to justify coilovers now that I've learned to be smooth).So my short list now is: tune; coilovers; rims, and competition tires. Dang, where to start!?!
Oct 27, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Budget friendly is what I'm looking for too. Since my A/S DD's will probably be end-of-life by next winter, I'm looking at ~$100/ea. I got recommended the Maxxis Victra MA-71 from a HPDE and competitive driver. Hopefully you can read this: http://stlbmwcca.org/wwwboard/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5829
If I could find an 18" in the price he got the 17" ($75/ea), I'd be thrilled, but so far the best price I found was around 120/ea.
If I could find an 18" in the price he got the 17" ($75/ea), I'd be thrilled, but so far the best price I found was around 120/ea.
Oct 27, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Budget friendly is what I'm looking for too. Since my A/S DD's will probably be end-of-life by next winter, I'm looking at ~$100/ea. I got recommended the Maxxis Victra MA-71 from a HPDE and competitive driver. Hopefully you can read this: http://stlbmwcca.org/wwwboard/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5829
If I could find an 18" in the price he got the 17" ($75/ea), I'd be thrilled, but so far the best price I found was around 120/ea.
If I could find an 18" in the price he got the 17" ($75/ea), I'd be thrilled, but so far the best price I found was around 120/ea.
I'll let you know if I find something in our price range.
Oct 27, 2010, 02:55 PM
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I'm picking up momentum. Now if I can only get my wife to stop spending mad-money on my kids!
Oct 28, 2010, 07:54 AM
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I am noticing that the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 245/40 ZR18 is widely available for right around $150/ea and have a 50,000 mile warranty; I've read pretty good DD performance stories on these guys, might well be my next A/S tires. I've seen NT-01 r-comps for $191 (lowest) and just found some rims for $115 that don't make me puke I'm picking up momentum. Now if I can only get my wife to stop spending mad-money on my kids!
I'm picking up momentum. Now if I can only get my wife to stop spending mad-money on my kids! I might add another set of rims with my tax return this spring though
Oct 28, 2010, 08:05 AM
#28
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If it snows in your area or get cold, do your self a favor and get dedicated winter tires. All Season tires are not all season. but if where you live dont get too cold or any snow then might be alright with A/S.
Oct 28, 2010, 09:30 AM
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^ Sinister lives in Virginia; it gets colder and some snow, but nothing like the MI or northern states. I lived in Dayton, so I know you will get a bit more snow than STL, about the same as KC actually -- sans the plains blizzards from the winds. For me, the depth of the snow will relegate the Evo to "parked" status once theres a chance of chunks of snow falling off of other cars and trucks wheel arches. The "chunks" are often packed hard ice/snow and they'll FUBAR the FMIC if you hit one on the hwy. Hence my midwestern and paranoid choice to opt for A/S's and let my 4x4 get me places when the intercooler gets to be "at risk"
Oct 28, 2010, 09:45 AM
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^ Sinister lives in Virginia; it gets colder and some snow, but nothing like the MI or northern states. I lived in Dayton, so I know you will get a bit more snow than STL, about the same as KC actually -- sans the plains blizzards from the winds. For me, the depth of the snow will relegate the Evo to "parked" status once theres a chance of chunks of snow falling off of other cars and trucks wheel arches. The "chunks" are often packed hard ice/snow and they'll FUBAR the FMIC if you hit one on the hwy. Hence my midwestern and paranoid choice to opt for A/S's and let my 4x4 get me places when the intercooler gets to be "at risk"