i got mine dyno'd after about 75miles

gl

 

LOL i rev'd it sky high the 2nd day of owning the car....

48k miles later....Im getting 22-24 mpg hwy and 16-20 city...I can't say my car is not running well.

 

With only 2 accidental exceptions, I followed the break in requirements that can be found in the manual to the letter. I figure Mitsu's recommendations with regard to their own stuff should be followed.

I'm at 1100 or so now (bought it with 26, and 13 of THOSE miles were my test drive) and I'm not afraid to get on it, but 90% of the time I'm a grandma. Still haven't launched it.

I DID find that things "broke" in as the miles and use accumulated. The SST became more responsive (I can't stress this point enough....), things just settled in and down.

 

you already followed the 2nd thought of breaking in the car...don't worry about it

 

i dont want to go to deep here, it is over discussed anyway, but for just food for thought :
the reason i didnt go for two stroke as an example because over there you only sitting in the piston rings which is be done in couple of turns... And you usually you have to do it very often/ after some running hours, not by miles you drove.... There for it is completely different brake in, and has nothing to do with a 4 stroke engine with brake in - maintenance etc....etc.

perfect example : oranges - apples...

 

Car engines are technically broken in already when they are assembled at the factory before going into the car. This basically ensures that the engine meets the expectations and is in working order before putting additional labor/work into dropping it into the engine bay and securing it down.

I personally say, the best time to test out the car is when your warranty is still in effect. Of course, I'd take it easy for a week or two after buying the car. However, chances are, the car you're looking to buy probably has a few miles on it already due to test drives and dealerships wanting to just drive the car for the fun of it, so they pretty much already broken it in for you.

 

Bought my SE new with only 11 mi on it. Did exactly what manual recommends and gradually increased RPM all the way toward the redline day by day. None hwy or fixed speed driving within the first 1k miles. Then took it to the autocross right after it hit that magic number (1000 mi). The following few thousand miles, I got 27+ mpg when crusing at 70 mph on hwy. Now after cobb cat-back installed and tuned, it still make 25-26 mpg at 70mph, only difference is right now it's summer (temp is higher). Will hit 10k miles later on my way home today lol. None prob at all so far, even for the crystal SST tranny !
Good luck for ur break-in

 

Just took delivery of a 2011 GSR. Section 3-2 of the owners manual says:

1. Avoid revving the engine. Do not exceed 5000 rpm for the first 600 miles. My dealer said 1500 miles, but the manual says 600.

2. Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, prolonged highspeed driving and rough shifting for the first 300 miles.

3. The high performance brake pads on your vehicle require a short break in period. Avoid hard braking for the first 300 miles to prevent future abnormal brake noise and vibration from your vehicle's brake pads.

4. The standard equipment use a high grip compound. Thus drive with extra care for the first 200 miles.

Basically, the metal parts are getting "friendly" with each other during this break in period. This is critical to not only the reciprocating parts of the engine, but also the transmission and center differential. There has been quite a discussion over the past few years about how to properly break in a new car such as the Evo. Some say to drive it like you stole it to make it faster. Others, like myself, have driven new cars gently to help the rings seat properly, the brakes get bedded in and the synchros in the transmission to shift smoothly.

One thing I can say is to leave the break in oil for the recommended time. There is a higher level of zinc and phosphorus in the oil that helps to prevent wear. We know about bedding in brakes properly and the tires have a mold release agent that is actually quite slippery and thus the tires should be heat cycled to get the best out to them.

 

its all bs. If you read up on breaking in a new engine, it basically states break it in the way you plan on driving it. If you plan driving like an old lady...sure go by the "book". But if you plan to race the car then race the car when you get it. I'm not going to sit here and explain why you do it that way (thats what google is for). But i bought my car with 53km on the odo...drove it for 2 days doing a few pulls to redline then went to the drag strip...by that time it had 300km on the odo. Car ran 13.5@101mph and ran like a champ. It's been 3 weeks and im now at 1300km still driving it hard with no issues...im hovering around 10.5L/100km (22.4mpg) all in the city.

 

The clutch break in alone is 500-1000 miles depending on city/hwy. Nothing over 4k rpms during this period is suggested by exedy.... just sayin.

 

Well im at 2090kms...should be at 3000km within the next 2 weeks. That will be my first oil change as well. So far, no issues.

 

There is NO break in on mitsu motors. All engines are put on a engine dyno that measures compression and other stats from the factory while it is broken in in phases precisely.

This is why they come from factory with synthetic oil. Because the motor is already broken in.

The manual instructions are related to warranty and to reduce mitsu liability.

Drive it hard day one or don't. It will not make a difference.

 

^^This is exactly what it is all about!