It's difficult to discuss the options, not knowing what the problem is. The OP logged in last night, saw the replies, but didn't post a pic and didn't expand on his original post with more info. So what's there to say concretely? I looked at his past threads and he's a teen with little automotive experience. Can't really take his comment on its face value.

 

you don't sound rude you just sound like you don't know what you are talking about.

googone...see directions on bottle
water...turn on sink and wet towel
clay bar...see directions on box
orbital...turn it on and follow my given directs (apply a little presure with some polish on it
wax it..

what will ruin paint out of the instructions i gave? ummmm NOTHING.

 

I'm not about to waste time going though each of your suggestions and illustrating the utter ignorance within. Please stop dispensing advice, when you have no idea what you're doing.

 

I have posted similar questions and FJF's advise to me has been spot on to correct my paint and scratches.

 

Just because it isn't what "you" would do doesn't make it wrong. I have detailed for years, and what i posted is the easiest way for someone with no access to professional grade stuff to get scratches out.

i think that you will not post comments on them (which may actually help someone to hear other options) because you don't know the difference. None of the posts you have done in this forum have said anything even remotely helpful to the OP. stop trolling and help, or just leave.

to the OP, i used the steps above on my WW 2010 and it looks brand new again. I posted in the WW thread not to long ago if you want to take a look.

 

...uh..clay bar doesn't seal anything...


OP: get the adhesive off, wipe with towel, use Scratch X per the bottles instructions. You don't need to do anything else.

 

You want it done right? Then you need a 3M 6 inch Polishing Pad? runs like 15-30 bucks. Then 3M polishing Compound. And then of coarse a buffer. Buff at 1000-1200 Rpms. If you can't handle this or have no idea what your doing then dont do this. You'll fry your clear coat. Take it to a professional shop. Everything else that is dont by hand is a temporary fix. You need heat to get this small scuff's, scratches out. Don't ever buff in the sun either. Need shade. ( Garage) Go to a automotive paint store and they will tell you everything you need to know. This stuff is pricey. Might be cheaper to get it done.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/prod_im...p/3M-57331.jpg

 

...since you insist:

A clay bar doesn't seal anything. It actually does the exact opposite by removing bonded-on contaminants.

1. An orbital buffer is totally ineffective for polishing. It simply doesn't have the power to break down the abrasives (we'll get to this in a minute).

2. The act of polishing happens when a given product is broken down into finer particles, unless of course one is using a non-diminishing abrasive. The steps suggested by you cannot make such a thing happen. It's simply impossible, as described.

3. Again, polishing, the speeds you cite work in an opposite order as presented. Depending on tool, one starts at high/medium speed and finished low, after the abrasives have broken down to burnish the finish.

There's a hell of a lot more to this.

Why introduce a polish (Scratch-x) when you're supposedly polishing to begin with? Because, you have no idea how any of this works. Why Scratch-X and not Swirl-X or Megs Ultimate Polish? Because, you don't know anything about this.

Let's briefly review: You suggested a clay bar, but you really don't understand what it does. You suggested polishing, and given the technique you cited the paint will remain marred at best or damaged at worst. You are clearly unaware of what a polish actually is and how it is used. Given all this, would you like to make any other great suggestions?

 

end well this will not...

 

I hope your not talking to me? I work at a paint shop. I paint, buff, polish, swirl remove. What i posted will deff work. But it's not something you learn in 5 min. And your right like your stating above somewhere. Its a difficult process.

 

That looks like the Ultrafina pad (made for 3M err... Ultrafina). The 8" is not for the faint of heart.

If the guy caused some light marring with a sponge, it can be removed effectively by hand with a MF applicator pad and some Ultimate Polish from Walmart, after reviewing a number of relevant tutorials. Total cost ~$10. If the marring is more severe, he should defiantly see someone who understands what he's doing. Seeing how none of us know what the problem actually is, we're all just pissing in the wind.

 

You weren't the one I quoted, right?

I added to your comments in another post.

 

Yea true we need pics. But the pad is 8'' sorry for putting 6. (typo) You can also use a glazing pad but it takes a little longer. Or you can buff stage 3 then stage 4.

 

Polish pad doesn't have any cut...he's just going to end up with shiny scratches. And why on earth would you compound with a polish pad??!

Unless you have a DA or Rotary polisher, just get the scratch ex crap from VatoZone and a towel. Scratch X has a moderate amount of cut to it (cut is what depletes the clear coat, basically you want to bring the clearcoat level around the scratches down to the level of the scratches, like sanding, on a micrometer scale), and not enough to do any damage. Kinda like a liquid wetsand. It will work just fine. When it comes to the actual process of paint correction, you need at least 2 pads and a good buffer. It's actually the speed/friction of the pad and the lubrication of the applied chemical that melts the clearcoat, which works away scratches, making them disappear, not covered up. Unless you are going to drop hundreds of dollars and spend hours learning and screwing up, just get the damn scratch x.

 

And your wrong FJF its a 3M polishing pad perfect it. I know what i post.