I was debadging my car, and like an idiot I used a sponge, and now if looks like a bunch of small scratches. Anyone know how I can fix it. Kind if looks like the color is faded.

 

Can you post a pic?

 

buff it out with wax

 

I know you're trying to be helpful. A wax is a protective coating; it has no real effect on paint marring. The OP needs to post a clear pic of the damaged area, if he expects to receive specific, constructive advice. Otherwise, he can do more harm than good, assuming he tackles the problem head-on.

 

By hand: Meguairs ScratchX

DA: Meguairs #205, light pad...

but yeh, post a pic!

 

If you're talking about the glue residue being left on the paint, use claybar and take it slow.

 

googone, to get off all residue
water to rinse googone off
clay bar to seal
polish with orbital (low speed with a little pressure)
buff polish off with orbital (med speed, no added pressure)
wax with your choice of wax.

if it is actual scratches, add scratchx step between rinsing off googone and clay bar.

if it is deep scratched (like you used a screwdriver to force off embles) then time to go to a body shop. But you said sponge, so i am assuming the abbrasive side of one, and you can just simply follow the steps above (assuming you didn't muscle it).

 

Post a pic. SwirlX by hand has worked for me. I also have used adams swirl and haze with an orbital or a drill with 4inch pads to remove light scratches. Def post a pic to get the best method/advise.

 

clean it off with Goo gone first like "oftheheavens" said... it might just be streaks of glue left

 

order the paint brush pen from mitsu dealer or online that matches your color. For future reference when I was debadging I just used dental floss to take it off and to get rid of the 3m crap on it i used goo gone with cotton swaps to take it out. Once it got out i just waxed it and bam like nothing was there to begin with

Get dental floss and after you stick it between the badge and paint pull it towards the badge in order to avoid it touching the paint and do a saw action going from up to down or down to up whichever you prefer.

Once the badge is out, use goo gone with cotton swaps or cotton ***** whichever. Wait for about 10 seconds and use another cotton swap/ball (either water wet or dry doesnt matter) and just brush the adhesives off.

Once the adhesives are gone just wax the spot where the badge was on and your done.

 

At the risk of sounding rude, this is exactly the type of advice that causes folks to damage their paint. The individual does not understand what each cited step actually does and how to go about this in an intelligent, effective manner. The paint on the X is thin enough as it is. I'd really like to urge everyone to post responsibly.

 

re spray it

 

Actually, most one step waxes have a mild abrasive in them to remove light scratches and swirl marks.

That being said, Meguiar's NXT wax does a pretty good job at light stuff and is real easy to apply and remove. If you have a DA machine it makes it even more effective. Of you were local, I could probably take care of it in a few minutes for you.

 

Products marked as cleaner waxes include a chemical cleaner that is meant to lightly prep the surface by removing oxidation. There are a few products that do include light abrasives coupled with a sealant, but they're few and far between (JW PS, as an example) and not commonly available. Such a product is meant for machine use, as described below. The comment you refer to, "buff it out with wax," was completely meaningless.

The LSP you mention includes light fillers that mask marring to some degree. It doesn't actually fix anything and its overall durability is fair. As you're using a DA with the product, essentially implementing it for its lubricity (absurd, I know), it's the pad that's doing the work. Hardly optimal.

 

You are correct, I was mistaken about the NXT. However, while you are right about it being sub-optimal, given the thickness of the paint, it is probably the safest option.