Hi, and I'm very sorry if this is a common question but Google hasn't been able to help.

I have a CHECK warning symbol on my dash, but when I connect a diagnostic tool it reports no errors. The car is driving fine.

I did find a section on the black fuel pump relay, and sure enough mine has gone. I'll get one as soon as I can find one in the UK. But at 36k miles it must have gone ages ago, so I guess it can't be that.

I also read it could be brake fluid level, so I've topped all fluids up to the max mark, even though it's going to need draining come brake pad changing time. A quick inspection leads me to believe the brake pads are OK, they haven't worn to the metal marker.

It's a manual gear box.

Here is a picture of the warning symbol:

 

i believe that's a brake warning light. check your fluid, your pads and maybe for leaks if you find nothing else.

 

+1

 

Yeah I read that somewhere online, and I've topped all fluids up to the max, even though I may regret this come to new pads time.

I have never had a car with low brake pad sensors before, I have always relied on the metal tab they put on them that makes that horrible squeeling sound. Mine haven't worn down to those metal tabs yet, could this still be the problem?

I guess what I'm asking is if it is the pads how do I know for sure?

 

Are these pads low?
https://plus.google.com/photos/10459...69386606024161

 

Difficult to tell for sure from the pics. Looks like the wear indicator is close.

The point in checking your pads is that when you wear the pads down the pistons in the calipers come out further making more room in the lines for the fluid to go this making it appear low in the master cylinder reservoir. Now that you topped it off, which is fine, when you go to replace your pads make sure you have something to catch all the fluid when it overflows from the reservoir.

If the wear indicators are close to the rotors, just replace the pads. It's cheaper than waiting for the indicator to scour the rotor and potentially ruin that in the process.

/long post. I hope I gets some 'sperience points for this.

 

those brake pads are pretty much toast, you gotta be down to less than 10% from the looks

it's an easy swap, throw some EBC reds on there

 

I had some EBC Reds on my FTO, I cannot begin to explain how utterly they were. I went back to my local auto factors and put some Mintex ones on, much better and they're just budgets.

They were that bad I thought my Master Cylinder was going, and was about to replace it.

I know they're popular so I guess they must be good, and I probably just had a bad experience, but first impressions and all.

Going to visit my local AutoFactors tomorrow and see what they have in stock.

 

How many miles on those pads?

 

So I found it in the user hand book:



Ohh ****!

 

Confirmed:


It's grounded, the only driving it's doing it to the dealer. It's under dealers extended warranty, I'm hoping that'll cover it. But they did the last service, and my god the oil is disgusting. It's black, properly black and sticky.



More here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10459...47783134322305

So I'm hoping I can get them on that, it was last serviced at 27963 and it's just ticked over to 37k. According to the service history it has 5W30 F/Synth. This is probably for another topic, but that sounds like race oil and race oil needs changing more frequently than 10k or 12 months.

 

You ran your oil for 10k? That isn't particularly smart.

 

Yeah I know (now). Can I pass the argument - I was just following instructions? I mean the manual says 12months or 10k miles. My FTO was happy with that.

And it's not like I race the thing, it gets me to work and the cinema. Sure I show the idiot boy racers that their Citroen Saxo's are NOT sports cars now and again at the lights. But I don't feel like my driving is overly "sporty"

But now I do feel stupid and I'll be changing it every 5000 miles. or 6months.

 

Update: Last Monday I took the car in to a garage approved by my warranty cover. They said, the issue is that the timing is out, which is indicative of the timing chain being stretched but not necessarily the case.

The tech told me that during a driving test the computer was repeatedly flagging up this issue, and the best course of action was to do and oil flush and change, clear the error code and see if the car reported the error again.

This actually worked, the car was perfectly happy until Thursday. Then on the way home the light came on again. Back to the garage and they took the side off the engine, yes my chain was definitely stretched.

Bad news is the chain is £200 specialist tools are required and an MUT-III tool for resetting the ECU. No option but Main Stealer. More to the point this isn't covered by warranty unless the chain snaps and the car wont drive. WTF? I'm sure it's cheaper to replace the chain than let me drive it till it needs a new engine.

Emails have been sent.