2008 to 2012 trade
We just build a brand new engine not even a year ago. I am not sure what are you talking about. Also i am still having problem to understand the timing chain strech(mine was perfect after 14kth miles. And the oil noze caused catastrofic failure....
Please elaborate more with some genuine links and documents.
I am genuinely interested as well.
Please elaborate more with some genuine links and documents.
I am genuinely interested as well.
No one seems to know why, though. I really wish there was some sort of TSB or literature explaining their reasoning since the 2011+ models are supposed to have updated timing chains which don't stretch.
Let me clarify! They want to sell me an 11 s/s and s/l for 35 otd and that including my trade in. I owe 15777 and they offered me 19,200. So roughly 3500 towards the 11. So I'm still paying 38500 for a leftover 11 otd. If I go through with it I will bring my car back to stock. For 38500 I'm thinking about just shelling out for a 11 335ix. Thoughts?
I have an X and a 335i. both good cars. You can get a certified pre-owned 335 for about $28k, but you're better off getting one with the sport package and a clean mechanical history (oil pump, wastegate, head, etc) for about $30k.
Either way, paying 35k for a new evo is a joke. Wait for the prices to drop on the 2011's. I'd say dealers get antsy around May/June.
All timing chains stretch eventually. Its just the nature of the beast. Over time thermal and physical fluctuations add up to cause annealing and elongation in the metal. Most of the people who have had issues with the timing chain have had it around the 60000 mile mark some a little before and some a bit after. I believe this is the reason rob didn't see stretch in his chain. He said he rebuilt his engine around 14k miles/km or so if I recall correctly. The oil squirter was removed because it would come in contact with the timing chain after about 1-1.5% stretch and I don't think the warning fault code comes on till about 2-3% stretch.
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate
Last edited by nvisan; Jan 20, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
[QUOTE=blk-majik;9904326]your supposed to subtract your equity, not add. It'd be 31500, not 38500.
I guess what I meant was 38500 otd - my trade in = 35000. Anyway still ain't doin it lol. I wish I could own both cars but like someone else said I don't track so im leaning towards bmw. Its hard to find it in manual though.
I guess what I meant was 38500 otd - my trade in = 35000. Anyway still ain't doin it lol. I wish I could own both cars but like someone else said I don't track so im leaning towards bmw. Its hard to find it in manual though.
All timing chains stretch eventually. Its just the nature of the beast. Over time thermal and physical fluctuations add up to cause annealing and elongation in the metal. Most of the people who have had issues with the timing chain have had it around the 60000 mile mark some a little before and some a bit after. I believe this is the reason rob didn't see stretch in his chain. He said he rebuilt his engine around 14k miles/km or so if I recall correctly. The oil squirter was removed because it would come in contact with the timing chain after about 1-1.5% stretch and I don't think the warning fault code comes on till about 2-3% stretch.
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate

In my original post in this thread I really didn't mean any offense whatsoever. I just like to see better explanations/discourse in forums so someone searching the topic down the road has a better/complete story.
I'm just cautious in these matters because someone always reads a one-line answer without any evidence, and then spreads it around to everyone else as fact.Thanks again, though.
All timing chains stretch eventually. Its just the nature of the beast. Over time thermal and physical fluctuations add up to cause annealing and elongation in the metal. Most of the people who have had issues with the timing chain have had it around the 60000 mile mark some a little before and some a bit after. I believe this is the reason rob didn't see stretch in his chain. He said he rebuilt his engine around 14k miles/km or so if I recall correctly. The oil squirter was removed because it would come in contact with the timing chain after about 1-1.5% stretch and I don't think the warning fault code comes on till about 2-3% stretch.
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate
Rob the reason catastrophic failure is like should your timing chain hit the squirter is that now you are introducing foreign material into your rotating assembly. In the case of my car the chain actually "jumped" 2 teeth on my intake cam gear and in the process broke some teeth off of the gear. When this occurs there is a high probability of valves coming into contact with the pistons reulting in bent valves and even possibly a blown piston hence engine failure.
Not trying to toot my horn but I'm a mechanical/product validation engineer. Its what I do for a living, we break stuff and see how to improve on it.
Hope this clears things up.
~Nate
I don't like what BMW has been making for the last decade. They look great, and are an automatic status symbol; but the only thing that has been improved is cosmetic (funny thing about that is I've had about 15 different females ask if my car"is a BMW" because of similar body lines). Everyone I know who has a BMW have constant problems (hence the "free" maintenance they started a few years back; people got sick of paying thousands of $$ extra each year to constantly fix "new" cars). They lost the whole "Ultimate Driving Machine" that they were known for, now they are luxury cruisers, value-priced high end cars if you will. If that's what you want, that's cool, but don't think they are "performance minded" (with the exception of a few select models that will cost $80k+). I have a Ralliart and walk on 135/335's all day. Most of them in my town gave up cuz by 3rd I'm already 4 car lengths away.
All I'm saying is be cognizant of what you are buying
If I wanted luxury and performance, I'd look at MBZ, but that's just me
All I'm saying is be cognizant of what you are buying
If I wanted luxury and performance, I'd look at MBZ, but that's just me
Last edited by sstevojr; Jan 20, 2012 at 02:41 PM.
going from 228hp/220ftlb to 370hp/332ftlb is cosmetic? chassis' improved over the e46 too. reliability is comparable to the evo x. the difference is that reliability rankings get their info from the manufacturer based on how many cars the dealer repaired under warranty. With mitsu, your stock engine blows and they tell you to screw off... not their fault so it doesnt count against reliability on paper. With BMW, you go in for an oil change and they want to preemptively fix a half dozen things for free and give you a better loaner. As far as perception goes, bmw owners are cry babies and complain about the car being in the shop, even though it doesn't cost them anything.
also interested in how a 210 wheel ftlb car pulls 4 length by 3rd against a car with 273 wheel ftlb car that only weights 100lb more. odd because my stock 335 pulls harder in a straight line that my tuned and modded evo x, especially over 80mph. maybe the people you're 'racing' against dont realize they're supposed to be racing
also interested in how a 210 wheel ftlb car pulls 4 length by 3rd against a car with 273 wheel ftlb car that only weights 100lb more. odd because my stock 335 pulls harder in a straight line that my tuned and modded evo x, especially over 80mph. maybe the people you're 'racing' against dont realize they're supposed to be racing
going from 228hp/220ftlb to 370hp/332ftlb is cosmetic?
I guess you can say a 40% price premium
doesn't cost them anything.
The local BMW owners all feel a need to challenge any car that could possibly tarnish their "ultimate" persona (a major dealership where I live, so EVERYONE has a BMW, seriously, Honda-esque market saturation). Apparently they fell the need to vindicate their 40% price premium on the regular (these are 10's & 11's, haven't seen any 12's yet), not that it does them any good. They can't wait to challenge me everywhere I go, it actually gets annoying when I'm trying to get good baseline logs. What about my signature makes you think my car is stock? If your stock 335 pulls harder than your modded/tuned X, you need a new tune
My good friend a work has an M3 (e46, not the new/new), used to talk so much trash about how he can walk all over me. Then one day I took for a ride at lunch, after I threw in the X turbo. He no longer has the same opinion 
Hell, 350/350 is enough that even the Panamera S can't get away. I do love the new Porsche's, and if you are looking at performance minded BMW's, you are 80% of the price of Porsche.
Last edited by sstevojr; Jan 20, 2012 at 04:24 PM.
that's the stock numbers for a base 335 with an n54 from Cobb. A flash with the AP brings it to 313hp/378tq to the wheels. Add intake/exhaust and you're at 363hp/424tq.
sounds like you got a giant chip on your shoulder. i doubt all the local bmw owners are challenging you. seems more like you're trying really hard to prove something to your self. inferiority complex?
im curious how your winning these 'races'. what 1/4 time are you running? or best lap time at what track?
sounds like you got a giant chip on your shoulder. i doubt all the local bmw owners are challenging you. seems more like you're trying really hard to prove something to your self. inferiority complex?
im curious how your winning these 'races'. what 1/4 time are you running? or best lap time at what track?
I just don't think BMW's are the ultimate car their owner's believe them to be. Sounds like YOU need to vindicate the $$$. If you want a better than average luxury cruiser, with highway pull, sure get a BMW; but don't let the warranty lapse.
Who said anything about races? When a car 3-4 behind you starts swerving in and out to catch up, then provokes you at 3 red lights in a row, you kinda get the idea they want to give it a try. If the road is clear I'm more than happy to comply, my local speed limits are 50-55 on the 3 lane roads; by the time I'm at 60 they are struggling to catch up (EDIT: FYI, I refuse to launch this transmission, never have nevern will), then feel the need to fly by doing 90 so they can feel like they won. I'm just sayin'..... (in case you can't tell I have A LOT of rich douche bags where I live)
Who said anything about races? When a car 3-4 behind you starts swerving in and out to catch up, then provokes you at 3 red lights in a row, you kinda get the idea they want to give it a try. If the road is clear I'm more than happy to comply, my local speed limits are 50-55 on the 3 lane roads; by the time I'm at 60 they are struggling to catch up (EDIT: FYI, I refuse to launch this transmission, never have nevern will), then feel the need to fly by doing 90 so they can feel like they won. I'm just sayin'..... (in case you can't tell I have A LOT of rich douche bags where I live)
Last edited by sstevojr; Jan 20, 2012 at 04:40 PM.
Over the holidays I got a letter in the mail from my local dealer offering $4000 off the MSRP of any new car, along with 0% financing for 60m, allowing to get into a new car while making the same payments. I have no real intentions of getting a 12' as it just doesn't seem worth it right now; I'm only a little above 20k miles anyways.
That being said my car is SSS/Aero, and I was offered just under $25k as a trade in for a new Mitsu. I'm sorry but 19K is absolutlely pathetic. I got $19k for my 65k mile 06' STI last april, from a dealer.
That being said my car is SSS/Aero, and I was offered just under $25k as a trade in for a new Mitsu. I'm sorry but 19K is absolutlely pathetic. I got $19k for my 65k mile 06' STI last april, from a dealer.


