My oem clutch lasted me 101,000 miles. I changed it a few weeks ago. Took it too a shop and it was around an 8 hour job.

 

I had COBB of Plano replace my clutch kit and they usually need a day and a half to replace and do alignments after that.

 

This gives me hope. I bought an Evo a few months ago and started reading the forums and saw so many clutch replacements early on, thats been my only real fear. I don't ever launch.

 

Took a few day to ship to store. Store installed it in one day for me. I purchased the Exedy Stage 1 Clutch. The clutch is a lot more heavier than the OEM. You MUST get an aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC) as soon as you change your clutch, or the plastic one will break and your clutch will stay on the floormat. I bought the AMS CMC and it has been working perfectly.

 

Throwout bearing turned to dust at 30k, put a new clutch in since it was apart but the stock clutch still looked relatively new.

 

I'm at almost 60k on stock, oh and btw, OEM is an Exedy clutch.

 

I have 165,000kms and my clutch was replaced before I owned it at some point (bought with 160k). Supposedly a stage 2 but it started slipping last week. I'm also looking into what kind of clutch to get... I was leaning towards the Exedy stage 1 HD but it seems like they don't last for very long based on what I've read. I would've gotten a stage 2 Exedy but they're all 3 pucks. I'm looking at a full face. I'm leaning towards the Spec 2 or Spec 2+ now. Anyone have experience with the Spec clutches?

 

I just did a clutch replacement myself, and I wouldn't describe as "hard." I'd describe it as "having a HUGE learning curve"

It's a tight engine bay, so most of my time was spent "how do I reach that bolt? top or bottom? 1 or 3 extensions?" This is what took so much of my time. It went together in about 2 days working like 3-4 hrs at a time.

That being said, the hardest thing for me was bleeding the transfer case, which has to be done when the t case is removed. I followed the MAP write up, which was really good, except it never mentioned how to bleed the clutch.

The method I used to bleed the clutch, after a lot of reading, was to jack the car up, and have a friend spin the driver side wheel. While this happens, bleed the car.

Best of luck!

 

Trackside... 5 hours. I didn't touch it but the guys knew what they were doing. A little tougher on jack stands.

 

Not at all. A lot of ppl including myself at one point think that have a twin disk last longer. When actually that's false. Those twin disk are race clutches and the disk aren't as thick. They do hold more tq but it's not a clutch that's meant to daily. Most twin disk guys only get 15-20k on them if your daily driving it. I know comp clutch stage 2 will last for a long time and it's a round disk. People over do clutches like crazy.

He may have had to much tq for that stage one. Prob should have been stage 2.

 

The shop took a day and a half.

I bought an ACT Clutch (ME3-HDSS) and ACT Flywheel (600550).

Grabs great I love it.

 

Exedy clutches are great. They are reliable and made to the highest quality control standards.

Since the Evo clutch is already so heavy, for daily driving and occasional track, OS Giken is another brand to think about. They are renowned for making powerful, light-on-the-pedal clutches.

 

Okay, good to know, I should be good then. My first car 35 years ago was a standard, and have many since. I just was worried having heard so much in here about clutches, and also the quirky shifting. Mine has 7k on it, and it's is crunchy between 2-3 and sometimes hard to get into reverse, and on occasion into first. Just assumed this might be a clutch thing. But I certainly know how to drive a stick.

Regards,
Kevin