I'm at the borderline of selling my car and just picking up a Civic Si ...
In the last month I have had the transmission dropped about 3 times.

My stock clutch was holding up well, but I got a real good deal on an ACT-ME1-HDSS. I had a nice bit of funds, so I decided to tune and then right after put in a new clutch since I was planning for a green. So the clutch and a magnus kit was installed, but we really didn't notice a difference in pedal pressure over stock. Actually it was about 3x lighter and after 1k miles of driving, I started getting severe rev hangs. Couldn't figure out why and decided to install a new slave. We installed the slave and a new pedal assembly (it has a spring on the side) thinking this may resolve my issue of a "featherweight" pedal along with the rev hanging. Nope. On the way home on the expressway the car wasn't disengaging properly and every upshift I had about a 7 second rev hang whenever I pushed it past 5k rpm. Okay crap. Lets drop the transmission again. So we dropped again and noticed the clutch itself has been scortched and glazed on the left side. Figured maybe defective clutch. Overnighted a new one and had it installed and resurfaced the aftermarket flywheel. I also did the clutch fork springs while at it figuring if their was something wrong with the weight of the pedal, this would be the last thing to replace. Bundled everything back together and no difference in pressure. Okay so I'll deal with it.

I have about 60 miles on the new HDSS clutch. Normal shifting 3.4-4k range is absolutely phenomenal and it grabs perfectly. Once I push it a little, the revs are hanging. Not constantly, but intermittently. I am almost certain I am starting to glaze up the clutch again and there is yet again some-kind of disengagement issue when pushed. I find this really awkward because we took our sweet time taking a good 30 minutes that everything is aligned perfectly using the clutch tool that came with the box.

So after I depress the clutch sometimes it just takes it's sweet time to drop. Back down. If I release it, there is a violent buck. You can actually feel this happening through the clutch pedal and when it happens, you really have to take your time easing off the clutch. We checked all the lines and bled it to the point where 45 bucks on fluids was wasted just to make sure. In total I am guessing about 3k done in parts and labor so far.

This afternoon when I got back from seeing expendables 2 (great movie btw), I was coming to a complete stop at an incline and pushed the clutch in maybe 5mph. The revs didn't drop like usual. I was planning for a little "see-saw" action but ended up just stalling out since it felt very very awkward.

I am really running out of ideas and things to look at. This is my DD and I need it. I've been out of a car for most of the month and it's taken a huge toll on me financially and emotionally. Freaking sucks!

I don't really know what else to do. Please help. The only thing I can think of to due is attempt a road tune. There is no grinding of gears, no engagement issues from dead stop, and most of the time it shifts like butter. The pedal has been rebleed multiple times, and I have 3 threads physically showing off the magnus clutch master cylinder when adjusted. It's about halfway to the bite.

Sorry for the story, I just needed to vent and get perhaps educated opinions on what to look at next. I am really hoping a fuel cutoff table needs to be tweaked out or I am going to go berserk.
On a side note, I need to get re-tuned again because I'm spiking to 32psi. I don't know if this is related. I thought about installing my 1000cc injectors and synapse dv next week to kill a few birds with one stone. I just fear that after the tune and parts get installed. The rev hang issue will still be there and I wasted a few bucks for nothing instead of correcting my original hang problem.

This is my clutch (first aftermarket) after 1k miles. 500 miles of taking it easy.

 

sell it. youll be happy you did

 

Don't sell it, find a big cliff and push it off. Problem solved. Sounds like you need someone whom knows what they're doing to do your clutch job.

 

sell it and get the si.

 

I had a 2007 Civic Si. The transmission used to get stuck going into 3rd gear. It happened while shifting slowly and quickly. A lot of other people on the 8thcivic.com forum reported the same problem too. Each time I complained about it at the dealership they would flush the transmission fluid at their cost, but there was never a TSB.

 

So let me get this straight. Your car was working perfectly fine with the stock clutch. You then put in an aftermarket clutch because you got a good deal and a tune (not clear on who's tune). Your mechanic is incompetent and now your car doesn't' run like it used to after having him install a new clutch and the tune.

Here's how to solve your issue;

1. Get a new mechanic. Yours sucks end of story.
2. Return the car to stock. You said you need the car to be a daily driver and need it to be reliable. Don't mod it because mods reduce reliability.
3. Don't even consider getting a Civic Si. You will hate yorself for it.

 

Take it to Sean Ivey to fix

 

This is the weirdest thread lol

Maybe you should sale the aftermarket CLUTCH not the CAR...put the stock clutch back in and use whatever money you have and get a tune at Ivey...

You are blaming the car for what seems like imperfect aftermarket work...

Still buy a used Si or a regular civic USED. Use the civic as your daily driver. I've always had civic hatches for back and forth driving to work, gas mileage, and reliability...but the X is much more fun.

 

AMEN lol +1

 

^+2 ACT clutches are known to do this in Evo's. Don't fix what aint broken, go back to stock or an Exedy stage 1.

 

After you get the civic, you'll probably feel like downgrading to a TTRS...

 

So your mechanic blew it and now you want an Si?

Hmm.

Sounds like a logical response. Come on now...

 

I went from this:








To this:







I had a 2007 Civic Si that I bought brand new. I put a ton of money into the car, not because anything was wrong, but because I heavily modded the car. It made 236hp on a low reading Mustang Dyno and would have probably gotten 250 hp on a Dynojet or the like.

The problem is that I would spend lots of money to measure hp gains with my fingers. I spent $1600 on IPS K2 cams and only got 12 hp more after tuning. I spent $1,200 on a custom Go Power header with merge collector and only made about 10 hp more. Still, the car was a blast to drive. Very dependable and I never ever had a transmission issue. However, fuel economy was not great with the car. I usually would only average about 22-24 mpg between city/freeway driving.

With my Evo, out of the box, it is faster than my Si. And, with mods, you measure hp gains by 50 or 100 hp for less money spent than you would on the Si. The Evo is such a superior car, it is amazing anyone would want to make a retrogressive move. The Evo is faster, handles much better, brakes infinitely better, has better seats and is better in all weather conditions. The Si is a handful when it snows, even with snow tires. For some reason, they never were very good in the snow. Don't know why, but that is what people said over and over.

Keep the Evo. Get a stock clutch and get a good mechanic to take care of you. Your Evo will depreciate far less than the Si will.

 

Let's not be under the impression that I use only one mechanic. That's actually one of the reasons why Ivey refuses to service me too. "Why do you decide to come here after visiting so many mechanics"? I refuse to talk down upon any shops that have done my previous installs/tunes and I'm not here to make enemies or boost anyone's ego. That's not my style. John Shaffer, PeteyTurbo, Jr. Tuned, and Dino from SS are really cool people that I had the pleasure of meeting and had them do work on my car.

I am very convinced that that clutch job was done correctly by a more than competent mechanic. When it comes to my car, I don't cheap out. Also I know plenty of people running ACT-ME1-HDSS without issues. This is the second one that is in. Let's put on our thinking caps for a second.

Would a sticky throttle spin the discs upon disengagement?
If it does, would it be happening on every shift regardless of RPM?
Maybe it is tps sensor or tune related to a fuel cut rather than where people are pointing at the clutch job.
Afterall, there is no grinding or trouble moving the lever from gear to gear.

 

OK guys I just had a flash back.

I always thought that after the Magnus installation done a few months back that the pedal was sitting "abnormally low". The stock pedal looked like it sat a full 1 inch+ higher than where it is now. I also remember that when we adjusted it the first time it was biting way too freaking high to the point where it wasn't even drivable... BUT the Heady Duty pressure plate feeling (what I was looking for) was there.

After adjusting the nut and bringing the biting point to about 2-3" off the ground, that is when the "loose" feeling came back, but the pedal is now dead even with the brake. I still think it bites a little too high to be honest, but normal driving it feels to be biting like stock.

Can I be onto something here?
If I bring the pedal back up to stock height (comparing to another evox) the bite will raise up unfortunately by way too much. The Magnus is a 2 piece set right? Is there a way to raise the pedal up to stock height lets say 1" above the brake, but keeping the bite 3" off the floor? Maybe this is the issue all along.... I have three visible threads left to lower the magnus even more if that is any help at all.



Google: Magnus CMC installed, now a few issues -this is what got me thinking....