mods+tune
mods+tune
I just bought a 2013 GSR. I have been looking into adding a intake and exhaust. While researching I have found some places that said I would need to get a tune ever time I added something or else I would damage the engine. I know with a tune the car will run better but I don't want to go drop $500 bucks every time I put a new part on. Some my question is will it damage the engine by adding these simple bolt on parts and not getting a tune.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
It depends on what you are adding. The easiest way is to get a Cobb AccessPort if you are just getting bolt-ons. That way you can use it to safely add those parts. When you are ready for a pro tune, either use the AP, or sell it and get a Tactrix cable for open source tuning. Just make sure you have all the parts you want so you don't have to drop $500 over and over.
It depends which parts you get. Right now I just have a full exhaust and I haven't been tuned yet. I have other mods waiting to be put on (boost controller, intake,) before I get a tune. I was also thinking about waiting to get an intercooler and pipes before tuning but that's too far down the road and I can't wait. I think some tuners will charge you less when you come back for another tune (I want to say $300ish??).
For intakes I know for a fact you can get: K&N, Injen, ETS, and AEM and not require a tune. With exhaust, any CBE will be fine with no tune.
Same with Upper and Lower IC pipes or a FMIC. Won't need a tune, you just won't get the most out of your mods until you do.
If you plan on running a test pipe, just wait to install it until you get your tune, it's not that hard to install anyhow
Same with Upper and Lower IC pipes or a FMIC. Won't need a tune, you just won't get the most out of your mods until you do.
If you plan on running a test pipe, just wait to install it until you get your tune, it's not that hard to install anyhow
thanks for the input. I did the research on the cobb accessport and honestly dont really see the point is spending 600 bucks for something I can only really add an intake and exhaust with. Anything else I would have to get it tuned by a pro. I know you can do alot on the tuner but I would not know what to put all the settings at. And you can always return your map to stock but why would you want to do that with all the mods you have done. Alot of my friends have GTI and they went though the same thing the only reason they got one is they split it 3 ways since they all have the same car. I know I will probably get yelled at for this but just give me your thoughts.
I used an AP with my STi initially. Even bought a pro-tune on the AP by Clark Turner.
On the STi it was annoying to swap maps because I had to reach under the dash and blindly connect to green cable ends then flash then unplug them.
Anyhow, I had sensor problems (MAF and O2) and a boost leak causing problems and went to a guy by recommendation of a friend for help. He prefers to do OpenSource tuning, and doesn't want to take the time to get into the AP. They can both do the same things, so it's not like there's an advantage of one over the other.
So I went with an OpenSource tune and he was able to datalog the sensor issues and worked through all the problems and the car ran great.
Then I bought my X. I went straight to OpenSource because I like the tuner. I can pay for a 91oct and E85 maps for the cost of just buying an AP. However we did find that the 11GSR ECU doesn't play well with the TephraMod to do on the fly map switching with the cruise control button :-( So in that respect the AP is much better if you're going to switch maps on a 2011 X.
It's all preference. I say, get the mods that are safe with no tune. Then find a tuner you like and trust. Then get tuned with whatever method the tuner recommends using, because it's going to be what they know the best.
If you're paying for dyno time with that tuner, you'll want your tuner to be able to make map adjustments quicker because it will safe you money anyhow.
On the STi it was annoying to swap maps because I had to reach under the dash and blindly connect to green cable ends then flash then unplug them.
Anyhow, I had sensor problems (MAF and O2) and a boost leak causing problems and went to a guy by recommendation of a friend for help. He prefers to do OpenSource tuning, and doesn't want to take the time to get into the AP. They can both do the same things, so it's not like there's an advantage of one over the other.
So I went with an OpenSource tune and he was able to datalog the sensor issues and worked through all the problems and the car ran great.
Then I bought my X. I went straight to OpenSource because I like the tuner. I can pay for a 91oct and E85 maps for the cost of just buying an AP. However we did find that the 11GSR ECU doesn't play well with the TephraMod to do on the fly map switching with the cruise control button :-( So in that respect the AP is much better if you're going to switch maps on a 2011 X.
It's all preference. I say, get the mods that are safe with no tune. Then find a tuner you like and trust. Then get tuned with whatever method the tuner recommends using, because it's going to be what they know the best.
If you're paying for dyno time with that tuner, you'll want your tuner to be able to make map adjustments quicker because it will safe you money anyhow.
It depends on what you are adding. The easiest way is to get a Cobb AccessPort if you are just getting bolt-ons. That way you can use it to safely add those parts. When you are ready for a pro tune, either use the AP, or sell it and get a Tactrix cable for open source tuning. Just make sure you have all the parts you want so you don't have to drop $500 over and over.
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I have an intake, test pipe, exhaust and UICP. I have been running on the stock tune with zero issues. I've logged everything and checked on my wideband, and it runs just fine. I even double checked with a local tuner and they said the mods actually made the car run better on the factory 2012 tune. I'm also 6500ft ASL.
I have an intake, test pipe, exhaust and UICP. I have been running on the stock tune with zero issues. I've logged everything and checked on my wideband, and it runs just fine. I even double checked with a local tuner and they said the mods actually made the car run better on the factory 2012 tune. I'm also 6500ft ASL.
And, at somepoint you might see the CEL for no-op catalyst which is just annoying, but to prevent it from turning on you'll need a flash.
But I agree, when I datalogged my X stock it was WAY too rich. Like < 10.2:1 stupid rich, almost what I would call unhealthy for 91oct.
Just because of the overboost possibility, I wouldn't suggest a TP until the OP gets a tune though...but I don't doubt you're not having problems with yours
I have an intake, test pipe, exhaust and UICP. I have been running on the stock tune with zero issues. I've logged everything and checked on my wideband, and it runs just fine. I even double checked with a local tuner and they said the mods actually made the car run better on the factory 2012 tune. I'm also 6500ft ASL.
Because in the case of my friend his AFr's with a similar setup he was run so pig rich , that in essence could do more harm than good.
If I were you, I would just invest in a tune and some form of boost control, maybe throw a test pipe or HFC in the mix, and a drop-in, and you'll have a very strong running car.
You'll see much bigger gains from that, then bolting on a few parts with no tune.
You'll see much bigger gains from that, then bolting on a few parts with no tune.
Consider doing what I did when I bought my X..... Do it once, do it right and be done with it.
I was like you, I wanted to mod the car right away. I drove my car stock for the break in and did a ton of research during the process. When I was ready I went to an excellent motorsports shop with the list of mods I wanted to do. The shop helped me finalize what my goals were and helped me pick quality parts to use.
When I was ready, all parts in my signature were installed in one day. The next day, I got my dyno tune.
My car was dyno tuned with only 2,000 miles on the odometer. I now have 20,000 and I haven't changed anything and I don't plan on any changes. (although one day in the future maybe a bigger turbo.)
So my recommendation is to enjoy the car bone stock for now. Do some homework and do all the mods at one time and be done with it.
I was like you, I wanted to mod the car right away. I drove my car stock for the break in and did a ton of research during the process. When I was ready I went to an excellent motorsports shop with the list of mods I wanted to do. The shop helped me finalize what my goals were and helped me pick quality parts to use.
When I was ready, all parts in my signature were installed in one day. The next day, I got my dyno tune.
My car was dyno tuned with only 2,000 miles on the odometer. I now have 20,000 and I haven't changed anything and I don't plan on any changes. (although one day in the future maybe a bigger turbo.)
So my recommendation is to enjoy the car bone stock for now. Do some homework and do all the mods at one time and be done with it.
I looked at it as well. It has some cool features. Being able to switch to other tunes. But I think the tunes that come with it, from what I have been told, aren't going to eek all the HP you will get with a custom tune. And that makes sense from a safety standpoint since it's kind of a one size fits all tune they gotta play it safe. So 500$ for the AP then pay Cobb another, what 500$ for a custom tune? I decided to just save up and buy as much as I can and take it to Road Race and have them install and dyno tune for 500. But I still think the AP is a cool device. I just don't think I would ever switch tunes, like to the gas saving mode. I want all my HP at all times. 
If you are like me and get bored, buy one thing at a time. Something you won't need a tune for. I got the ETS intake. The sound entertained me for a few months. And I just ordered the Ultimate Racing Catback (Which is frustrating because I ordered in time to get it today and it shipped a day late and I don't get it until Monday!! The worst possible day it can come. Now I have to look at it until the next weekend before I can install it. UGGGGG!) That should keep me happy until after Christmas when I am finally able to get everything I want and the tune. ETS 3.5 or 4" IC kit, AMS downpipe, Test pipe. Gauges, 3 port and finally a tune.
gl

If you are like me and get bored, buy one thing at a time. Something you won't need a tune for. I got the ETS intake. The sound entertained me for a few months. And I just ordered the Ultimate Racing Catback (Which is frustrating because I ordered in time to get it today and it shipped a day late and I don't get it until Monday!! The worst possible day it can come. Now I have to look at it until the next weekend before I can install it. UGGGGG!) That should keep me happy until after Christmas when I am finally able to get everything I want and the tune. ETS 3.5 or 4" IC kit, AMS downpipe, Test pipe. Gauges, 3 port and finally a tune.
thanks for the input. I did the research on the cobb accessport and honestly dont really see the point is spending 600 bucks for something I can only really add an intake and exhaust with. Anything else I would have to get it tuned by a pro. I know you can do alot on the tuner but I would not know what to put all the settings at. And you can always return your map to stock but why would you want to do that with all the mods you have done. Alot of my friends have GTI and they went though the same thing the only reason they got one is they split it 3 ways since they all have the same car. I know I will probably get yelled at for this but just give me your thoughts.
Ill prob get a boost controller, intake, turbo back exhaust, and possible an intercooler, then get it tuned in the next 6 months. At some point I plan on getting it up to around 600hp but I know thats down the road and going to cost a decent amount. Thanks for all the help


