Master Cylinder popped
Master Cylinder popped
Finally happened. Just put in a new clutch about 2k miles ago. (Spec Stage 2+) I didn't feel that the clutch pedal was any stiffer, but it was just a matter of time.
2008 GSR. 55k miles. 2k miles on new clutch.
Now it's back to shopping for more parts.
2008 GSR. 55k miles. 2k miles on new clutch.
Now it's back to shopping for more parts.
Damn i have a 2011 GSR with ACT 6 puck clutch and on OEM CMC for about 2000 miles. Lets hope she holds. What was the outside temperature where you're at. I heard colder temps tend to make it weaker
It was probably around low 40's this morning, pretty mild weather relatively for this time of the year. Luckily I had enough momentum to carry me through the stoplight and around a corner into a parking lot. I was slowing down into the turn at a stoplight, pushed in the clutch and I felt it drop to the floor.
Probably going to go with the Magnus MC upgrade.
I notice that on the MAP website they use an OEM replacement EVO 8/9 MC and not an actual OEM one for the Magnus kit. The option for the OEM MC is another $25 more, not a big deal. Has anyone has experience using the OEM replacement MC instead of the actual OEM one? The good news is that they're both not plastic.
I notice that on the MAP website they use an OEM replacement EVO 8/9 MC and not an actual OEM one for the Magnus kit. The option for the OEM MC is another $25 more, not a big deal. Has anyone has experience using the OEM replacement MC instead of the actual OEM one? The good news is that they're both not plastic.
Probably going to go with the Magnus MC upgrade.
I notice that on the MAP website they use an OEM replacement EVO 8/9 MC and not an actual OEM one for the Magnus kit. The option for the OEM MC is another $25 more, not a big deal. Has anyone has experience using the OEM replacement MC instead of the actual OEM one? The good news is that they're both not plastic.
I notice that on the MAP website they use an OEM replacement EVO 8/9 MC and not an actual OEM one for the Magnus kit. The option for the OEM MC is another $25 more, not a big deal. Has anyone has experience using the OEM replacement MC instead of the actual OEM one? The good news is that they're both not plastic.

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Oh and I've ran the Magnus since it was released, as with any, just plan on spending a lot of time bent in awkward positions over the front of the car. To limit that amount of time, get a proper and working air grinder and a proper grinding bit. My grinder died and I was forced to resort to a dremel and cutoff wheels.
Also be very very careful with the o-ring inside the brake master cyl.
Also be very very careful with the o-ring inside the brake master cyl.
Oh and I've ran the Magnus since it was released, as with any, just plan on spending a lot of time bent in awkward positions over the front of the car. To limit that amount of time, get a proper and working air grinder and a proper grinding bit. My grinder died and I was forced to resort to a dremel and cutoff wheels.
Also be very very careful with the o-ring inside the brake master cyl.
Also be very very careful with the o-ring inside the brake master cyl.

I was hoping for a R&R (remove and replace) job.
We also have ours in stock ready to go and it offers plenty of clutch pedal adjustment:

Click here
Please shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Click here
Please shoot me a PM if you are interested.
I would also go to an oem one. There is just something wrong with grinding the firewall and exposing metal to get a aftermarket CMC and there has been to many threads of issues with the other CMC That screws in. I've always wondered if I went to a push style clutch if that would work with the factory CMC.
And any CMC kit, including the factory style one you still have to remove the brake master cyl and everything to get to it.
Super, i hope you have a cmc replacement. i had 5k miles on my oem cmc with my 6 puck before it popped. it is not a matter of if, but when.



