So I want to buy a UR downpipe but the one im looking at only has one bung hole, does this mean I cant run a wideband or what? Im confused.. lol

 

I hope you like repairing cracked welds. If you get it, just put the wideband in your testpipe/HFC.

 

These downpipes aren't good?

 

when it comes to parts involving skilled labor traits such as cutting, welding, fitting, cleaning, etc.... you get what you pay for. I have an ams dp so I can't comment on the UR dp, but just throwing that out there

 

Lol bung hole. *serious face* yeah, just get a test pipe with a bung...hole.

 

good thing I know alot of good welders but it should be fine, everything looks good and intact. and 360 for a downpipe doesnt sound too cheap..

 

Couldn't you replace the stock upper O2 narrowband with one of the widebands that can simulate narrowband (innovate LC-1, zeitronix, PLX...) and hook up the simulated narrowband to the ECU?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I need to add a wideband to my car, and that's the direction I'm thinking of going. I have to retain a cat (yes, we get inspected annually), and would rather have the wideband ahead of the cat...

 

No don't do that. The wideband is not instantly sending proper signals from startup on the simulated narrowband output. It takes time to warmup where as your stock O2 is almost instantly sending data.

It's also slower to react to changes causing larger "swings" in the lean-rich cycle during closed loop. It's caused by the sensor being farther away from the engine than the original O2.

Basically by the time sensor is close enough to get a faster reading, it's too close to the engine and the heat kills the wideband O2.

If I were to do it again I'd wire a switch so I can switch between the front O2 or simulated narrowband. That way I'd run front O2 most of the time and switch it over on long highway drives for economy.

Obviously this is not a small task. Fuel trims will be all over the place since you're targeting 2 different cruise AFRs so you will definitely have to tune for it or you will certainly have issues.

 

 

D'oh! Thanks for the help!!

And with just a tiny bit more searching I stumbled across the wideband install how-to. Not sure how I missed it before, I could have sworn I looked in the how-to's... apparently not!

 

I would not cheap out on a down pipe. Save up and get what the car deserves

ETS Recirc or Open dump is option one or AMS Downpipe is option 2. I wouldn't get anything else.

By the time you pay someone to fix the welds/cracks you could of bought a AMS or ETS

-Chris