Installing downpipe
Installing downpipe
Im about to install my ETS 02 Dump downpipe on my X.... Any suggestions on the easiest way to get up in there only have 4k miles so bolts shouldn't be too rusted but do I have to take the Tcase and Drive shaft out?
no. this is a very basic install guide, it's a difficult install due to accessibility of the bolts.
http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...install-guide/
Depending on if you are doing just the downpipe or the housing that goes up to the turbo will differ. It was a pain on the butt. All I did on mine was just the downpipe and there were only 2 bolts for it, but they were buried, of course I never even thought about getting to the bolts from up top, it would have been wayyy easier. I would definitely go from up top to get to the bolts for the downpipe.
Depending on if you are doing just the downpipe or the housing that goes up to the turbo will differ. It was a pain on the butt. All I did on mine was just the downpipe and there were only 2 bolts for it, but they were buried, of course I never even thought about getting to the bolts from up top, it would have been wayyy easier. I would definitely go from up top to get to the bolts for the downpipe.
I just attempted this a couple of weeks ago with the same mind set, I only had 6k on the car what could go wrong....
I ate those words very quickly.
Lots of PB blaster. Absolute must and apply well before hand (like the night before) along with through out the process.
A couple bolts on top were relatively easy to access and with pb blaster and a socket they came off after a bit. But there was one bolt I could not get. The bolt that is in a bracket attached to the block. I spent hours and hours trying to get it out along with an entire can of PB blaster. I could not get the stubborn thing out. I ended up taking it to a local shop to get it out, I was so frustrated with it.
Some suggested using a propane torch to heat it up to get it to break, personally I didnt try it. A lot of people also suggested not to use an impact as it could break the bolt head and than you are even in a worse situation.
I also used the above link to help guide. All I can say is good luck!
I ate those words very quickly.Lots of PB blaster. Absolute must and apply well before hand (like the night before) along with through out the process.
A couple bolts on top were relatively easy to access and with pb blaster and a socket they came off after a bit. But there was one bolt I could not get. The bolt that is in a bracket attached to the block. I spent hours and hours trying to get it out along with an entire can of PB blaster. I could not get the stubborn thing out. I ended up taking it to a local shop to get it out, I was so frustrated with it.
Some suggested using a propane torch to heat it up to get it to break, personally I didnt try it. A lot of people also suggested not to use an impact as it could break the bolt head and than you are even in a worse situation.
I also used the above link to help guide. All I can say is good luck!
I just attempted this a couple of weeks ago with the same mind set, I only had 6k on the car what could go wrong....
I ate those words very quickly.
Lots of PB blaster. Absolute must and apply well before hand (like the night before) along with through out the process.
A couple bolts on top were relatively easy to access and with pb blaster and a socket they came off after a bit. But there was one bolt I could not get. The bolt that is in a bracket attached to the block. I spent hours and hours trying to get it out along with an entire can of PB blaster. I could not get the stubborn thing out. I ended up taking it to a local shop to get it out, I was so frustrated with it.
Some suggested using a propane torch to heat it up to get it to break, personally I didnt try it. A lot of people also suggested not to use an impact as it could break the bolt head and than you are even in a worse situation.
I also used the above link to help guide. All I can say is good luck!
I ate those words very quickly.Lots of PB blaster. Absolute must and apply well before hand (like the night before) along with through out the process.
A couple bolts on top were relatively easy to access and with pb blaster and a socket they came off after a bit. But there was one bolt I could not get. The bolt that is in a bracket attached to the block. I spent hours and hours trying to get it out along with an entire can of PB blaster. I could not get the stubborn thing out. I ended up taking it to a local shop to get it out, I was so frustrated with it.
Some suggested using a propane torch to heat it up to get it to break, personally I didnt try it. A lot of people also suggested not to use an impact as it could break the bolt head and than you are even in a worse situation.
I also used the above link to help guide. All I can say is good luck!
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Its not that hard at all to do at all. The two big things are once you have the strut tower bar removed and the heat shield. Is to spray your bolts with PB blaster and let it soak for an hour. Repeat this procedure on the test-pipe to downpipe connection too. Two its very critical that you have the right sockets and extensions and don't be in a rush doing this make sure you have all the sockets seated properly before breaking them loose and tightening them.
With you having access to a lift and the proper tools this job will be a cinch and you should be able to do this job in 3 hours or less.
With you having access to a lift and the proper tools this job will be a cinch and you should be able to do this job in 3 hours or less.
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