http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-evx-003.htm

These are what I installed, I torqued the bolts to the specifications listed here...(uploaded pic) . And I am still getting the clunk, worse than before, i awd motorsports and the guy I spoke to before installation told me to reuse the original washers from the side mounts, I did. Two things... I do not have the rear aluminium bushing flush with the lip of the subframe, but it is not far from it. Secondly, maybe my tightening sequence was wrong and I should have started tightening from the rear instead of the front. HELP Please, I am going to take it apart tomorrow and redo it all, dont wanna make the same mistake twice.

 

Maybe the clunk is from too much slop between the pinion and ring, instead of the diff moving around.

 

Is that common with this car? it seems if it was so that it wouldnt be any worse than before i installed this right? I havent taken it over 10-15 mph yet and its noticable. soft shift dont hear anything, a little quick on the clutch and clunk from the rear

 

I haven't heard much about lash issues with an Evo X's rear diff, but it's been an issue on previous Mitsus. And it will definitely feel worse after the bushings are stiffened. It's an easy thing to test. Lift one rear wheel very safely and turn that wheel while you have one hand on the driveshaft. You will feel both the slop and then the clunk with your hand if you have excessive lash in the pinion/ring of your rear diff.

 

After you stiffen the rear diff with bushings, the diff actually transmits more noise into the cabin. I realized that when we did mine. Easy fix though, toss some GT MAT or Dynamat, something for sound deadening under the backseats and it will cancel the noise. I plan on adding GT mat all over the place, under the floor as well as the backseat and it will be perfect.

 

I agree with the above, but still think that the thread-starter should check for excessive lash in the rear diff and maybe the T-case, too. Too much lash leads to damage and possible complete failure.

 

Agreed. Make sure you check the rear diff as well as the T-case.

It isnt too uncommon for them to fail so don't freak out. It hasn't happened to be with my 2010 evo (45k miles and sold it and now has over 65k) but it has happened to other friends. Its a warranty fix.

 

Thanks, Ill try it prob Tues, maybe tonight if I get off early enough, I bought this car last month, 51k on it and its done it from the time of purchase, but I didn't get on it when i test drove it(clutch was unexpectedly strong just had a time getting it off the lot). I came from fwd and don't know anyone with awd, so this is a new experience. The car was not stock, but the mods were removed excluding the intake and up and downpipes, and a dump pipe off the header. Actually was tuned by jester tuning and I want to take it in but I dont want them to stick me with the bill by saying it happened because of some other parts that were on the car yo know.