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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:00 AM
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Mods suggestion for GSR

Hello guys,

I have a 2012 stock GSR. Now, I have a budget of around $2500 to spend. I was wondering and looking for some suggestions on where I should spend that money for optimal performance gain. I mean I'm not looking for and I know that it won't be too much of power gain just for $2500. I just want something more fun and reliable than the stock. I would also like to include a tune. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks!
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:43 AM
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package from either ETS or AMS
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sessllh
Hello guys,

I have a 2012 stock GSR. Now, I have a budget of around $2500 to spend. I was wondering and looking for some suggestions on where I should spend that money for optimal performance gain. I mean I'm not looking for and I know that it won't be too much of power gain just for $2500. I just want something more fun and reliable than the stock. I would also like to include a tune. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks!
Electronic boost controller, test pipe, CBE of choice and an intake (for sound). With some cash to spare if you go opensource for the tune, otherwise a Cobb AP will seal the deal.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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You don't even need a catback. A test pipe, tune and a boost controller of your tuners choice will be plenty enough to get you over 300 whp. Which is roughly 60-70 more wheel horsepower than factory. Not bad for about $800 or so if you ask me. Unless you plan on going crazy with the car at some point just save the extra cash. Not worth buying other parts if you don't.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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I guess the first question would be what you want to focus on. For $2500 you won't be able to make much of a performance difference in any one place if you spread it out, so I assume you want to focus on handling, or power, or brakes...etc. The second question would be what your goal for the car is. Strictly spirited DD? Track only? Dual purpose? What type of motorsport events would you be doing? These questions are to give us a better idea of what should be improved first.

For power, I would suggest Cobb intake and Turboback. OEM clearance, and a performance gain of about 20% (claimed) which equates to nearly 50HP. You'd need their AccessPORT with a Stage 2 OTS tune (tune is free)

For handling you could go with either tires and wheels (not sure if $2500 would be enough for something worth getting) or a solid coilover set like KW V3s.

For brakes you could knock out the whole set for that money, including rotors (2pc if you want), good pads, lines, and MAYBE even some better calipers. Don't forget upgrading to DOT4 fluid.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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Get a 3port, intake, tbe, FMIC, UICP, and cobb ap. This should be under $2500 depending on what brands you go with. If you just stick with the Cobb AP tune, you may not need the 3port.

Maybe even stick with your OEM FMIC and use that money for a protune
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 12:13 PM
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I'm still really not sure where people are getting this list of parts to spend money on. I'm telling you with first hand knowledge that the only parts necessary to make 300+ hp at the wheels are a test pipe, a boost controller and a tune. All of the rest of the parts are completely useless if you don't plan on doing anything with your car other than cruising with it etc. Even then my car was 100% bolt ons and made only about 15 more wheel horsepower than the cars that used the mods I suggested and I spent thousands more dollars on it before I took the plunge to dedicate my car to the drag strip only. Now if you want to save weight etc then I recommend getting exhaust, intercooler piping etc but it's not necessary.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Agreed with the above post if he's on a tight budget.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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In my opinion, here is the deal:

Power only: go for dop in filter, an accessport or a 3 port EBCS and a tune, include a highflow cat or test pipe, cat back, and a good thing is to get the uicp.

Some power with a lot of handling: go with the accessport and go coilovers.

mix of power and handling: Eibach kit (2 swaybars and springs) or any other, drop in filter, uicp, hfc or test pipe, cat back, accessport or a tune.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 05OrangeSS
I'm still really not sure where people are getting this list of parts to spend money on. I'm telling you with first hand knowledge that the only parts necessary to make 300+ hp at the wheels are a test pipe, a boost controller and a tune. All of the rest of the parts are completely useless if you don't plan on doing anything with your car other than cruising with it etc. Even then my car was 100% bolt ons and made only about 15 more wheel horsepower than the cars that used the mods I suggested and I spent thousands more dollars on it before I took the plunge to dedicate my car to the drag strip only. Now if you want to save weight etc then I recommend getting exhaust, intercooler piping etc but it's not necessary.
Yep. I didn't realize a TP, 3port, and tune would gain you 50-60hp+

I guess I never really seen too many people state that. If I had, I may have done that at first and saved some money. But like most on here, we don't usually stop there. So if you decide you want more hp in the future, you will loose money because you will need to retune if you purchase additional mods.

I guess it all depends on what the OP's goals are.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 01:25 PM
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thanks for helpful inputs guys.

Yea, When I said performance I meant the power. Sorry for the confusion.

I daily drive my car about 50 miles a day and all I'm looking to achieve right now is 300-320 hp to the wheels. Nothing crazy.

So as few people mentioned above, 3port boost controller/test-pipe/pro-tune will be good enough to get me around 300-320hp?

Which test-pipe do you guys would recommend? How about HFC?
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sessllh
thanks for helpful inputs guys.

Yea, When I said performance I meant the power. Sorry for the confusion.

I daily drive my car about 50 miles a day and all I'm looking to achieve right now is 300-320 hp to the wheels. Nothing crazy.

So as few people mentioned above, 3port boost controller/test-pipe/pro-tune will be good enough to get me around 300-320hp?

Which test-pipe do you guys would recommend? How about HFC?
Yup. Just a 3port and a test pipe (the test pipe is more for smooth/early boost) and a tune and you're good to go. My car mar 330/350 with just an intake and a 3port when my friend owned it. I suggested intake and CBE of choice for sound purposes because it's the sound/power combo that puts a stupid grin on my face.

If I had your money I'd do those two parts, the loudest CBE out there, and some AME TM02's with tires.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sessllh
thanks for helpful inputs guys.

Yea, When I said performance I meant the power. Sorry for the confusion.

I daily drive my car about 50 miles a day and all I'm looking to achieve right now is 300-320 hp to the wheels. Nothing crazy.

So as few people mentioned above, 3port boost controller/test-pipe/pro-tune will be good enough to get me around 300-320hp?

Which test-pipe do you guys would recommend? How about HFC?
I would recommend the STM aluminum test pipe because it's super light weight, reasonably priced, and the quality of their products is second to none.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by R3VOLUTION
Yup. Just a 3port and a test pipe (the test pipe is more for smooth/early boost) and a tune and you're good to go. My car mar 330/350 with just an intake and a 3port when my friend owned it. I suggested intake and CBE of choice for sound purposes because it's the sound/power combo that puts a stupid grin on my face.

If I had your money I'd do those two parts, the loudest CBE out there, and some AME TM02's with tires.
Your car made 330/350 with a 3port, intake and tune??? This was at the wheels?
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Kendogg
Your car made 330/350 with a 3port, intake and tune??? This was at the wheels?
If that was on a dynojet I'd believe it for sure. A test pipe, MBC and tuned Evo X on STM's dyno does anywhere between 310-325 and it reads lower so it seems reasonable to believe that.
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