cold start=check engine
cold start=check engine
I have 2013 evo with 5,000 miles. cold start this morning followed by check engine light.
it was colder yesterday than this morning. $100 at dealership to check code. Is this common for cold start???
it was colder yesterday than this morning. $100 at dealership to check code. Is this common for cold start???
I have the same thing, I have a Cobb AP and pull a P0134 code on mine. Front o2 sensor damage. 2013 GSR 6k miles. I am brining to the dealer on Friday...if it is not covered under warranty (I am modded) I will be brining to my tuner to have done later.
That is, unless someone else can throw their .02 in and say it isn't really needed.
Mine also started when MD got some snow, and temps dropped significantly lower than I have seen since getting the car.
That is, unless someone else can throw their .02 in and say it isn't really needed.
Mine also started when MD got some snow, and temps dropped significantly lower than I have seen since getting the car.
i didnt take it to dealer yet. im going to local part store to see if they will scan it. im not liking the evo x right now. already did the recall on clutch cylinder now this. i should of kept my 8.
If you read up, you'll see that these cars throw codes very quickly when the LTFTs can't keep up with things like sudden changes in temp. As soon as the LTFTs level off, the code self-deletes.
Yeah, it can be disconcerting to get a code, but that's the best reason to have a cheapo code-reader in the glove-box. When you see that it's just a lean or rich code, right after a temp change, you carry on and soon it is gone.
edit: and, yes, this is a bit different from previous Evos, but the new way of calculating airflow is actually better and worth the occasional code being thrown
Yeah, it can be disconcerting to get a code, but that's the best reason to have a cheapo code-reader in the glove-box. When you see that it's just a lean or rich code, right after a temp change, you carry on and soon it is gone.
edit: and, yes, this is a bit different from previous Evos, but the new way of calculating airflow is actually better and worth the occasional code being thrown
Last edited by Iowa999; Jan 8, 2014 at 07:51 AM.
Should be covered under warranty if its a 13, with 5,000 miles. The diagnosis is included.
Same thing happened to me yesterday in this Chicago weather. I was going to take it in to the dealer because i am still under warranty but maybe i should just go to a parts store. Wish i had my cobb haha. I have a feeling it is my O2 sensor, if it is should i swap it out or do you think it will turn off when the weather's not so brutal?
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If you read up, you'll see that these cars throw codes very quickly when the LTFTs can't keep up with things like sudden changes in temp. As soon as the LTFTs level off, the code self-deletes.
Yeah, it can be disconcerting to get a code, but that's the best reason to have a cheapo code-reader in the glove-box. When you see that it's just a lean or rich code, right after a temp change, you carry on and soon it is gone.
edit: and, yes, this is a bit different from previous Evos, but the new way of calculating airflow is actually better and worth the occasional code being thrown
Yeah, it can be disconcerting to get a code, but that's the best reason to have a cheapo code-reader in the glove-box. When you see that it's just a lean or rich code, right after a temp change, you carry on and soon it is gone.
edit: and, yes, this is a bit different from previous Evos, but the new way of calculating airflow is actually better and worth the occasional code being thrown
We checked my LTFT's and they were good. Are people who don't own a 2013 throwing this code in the cold?

Same thing happened to me yesterday in this Chicago weather. I was going to take it in to the dealer because i am still under warranty but maybe i should just go to a parts store. Wish i had my cobb haha. I have a feeling it is my O2 sensor, if it is should i swap it out or do you think it will turn off when the weather's not so brutal?
The autostores are free. But you can get torque app on android phone and grab a Bluetooth obd2 reader off amazon for like $20. It has been an awesome tool.
Just to add some cold misfortune my 9 wouldnt start at all. Starter was frozen. I compression started and tripped the crank position sensor. Put the car in garage and let her warm up and dry out. Been fine ever since.
Your sensor is probably fine. Sorry you paid dealer to check code.
Just to add some cold misfortune my 9 wouldnt start at all. Starter was frozen. I compression started and tripped the crank position sensor. Put the car in garage and let her warm up and dry out. Been fine ever since.
Your sensor is probably fine. Sorry you paid dealer to check code.
LTFTs move when STFTs bang against the upper or lower boundary. If the LTFTs don't move quickly enough, said banging happens more than the system likes and it throws a code. Thus, if you pull the LTFTs when the code is thrown, you won't see it close to either boundary, because the problem is that it didn't move quickly enough, not that it actually hit one of the limits.
I'm not a tuner by any means, so I might not be correct and/or the guy who explained it to me (in a bored and annoyed tone) may have watered it down for my consumption. I should have admitted this earlier.
Oh, and my 08 does this. I get a Long Term Lean Bank 1 (or something like that) if the temp drops a lot between now and the last time I drove the car.
My understanding of this goes as follows:
LTFTs move when STFTs bang against the upper or lower boundary. If the LTFTs don't move quickly enough, said banging happens more than the system likes and it throws a code. Thus, if you pull the LTFTs when the code is thrown, you won't see it close to either boundary, because the problem is that it didn't move quickly enough, not that it actually hit one of the limits.
I'm not a tuner by any means, so I might not be correct and/or the guy who explained it to me (in a bored and annoyed tone) may have watered it down for my consumption. I should have admitted this earlier.
Oh, and my 08 does this. I get a Long Term Lean Bank 1 (or something like that) if the temp drops a lot between now and the last time I drove the car.
LTFTs move when STFTs bang against the upper or lower boundary. If the LTFTs don't move quickly enough, said banging happens more than the system likes and it throws a code. Thus, if you pull the LTFTs when the code is thrown, you won't see it close to either boundary, because the problem is that it didn't move quickly enough, not that it actually hit one of the limits.
I'm not a tuner by any means, so I might not be correct and/or the guy who explained it to me (in a bored and annoyed tone) may have watered it down for my consumption. I should have admitted this earlier.
Oh, and my 08 does this. I get a Long Term Lean Bank 1 (or something like that) if the temp drops a lot between now and the last time I drove the car.
Is there a reason why it would affect one X, but not the other? I have very similar mods and used the same tuner as others in my area. I appear to be the lucky one I guess.
Is there a solution for this? Also, would the symptom that causes this code affect idle. The last two days when I threw this code, my idle was acting very weird. But it was a little warmer today, and the car ran like a champ.
I just wish I could find a solution for this.



