They MIGHT replace under warranty...I doubt it too though. I didn't even bother to see what they said since they were going to charge me the diagnosis fee. I don't even have an aftermarket DP.

I get weird idle in my car too, mostly before the engine hits operating temperature. Once I get warmed up, my idle is normal. Mine occasionally goes high as well, but I couldn't tell you if my AF ratio is leaning out, since I don't have a gauge. I would venture to say my jumps are pretty normal. Of course, I don't get that weird quick bouncing idle like you do...

 

From what I was told, if the O2 sensor is going out, it will slowly get worst and worst. I guess it usually doesn't go from working correctly, to not working at all. It degrades with time.

I don't know for sure, that's just what I was told. But if that is the case, maybe my O2 is just worst off than yours? If it is the O2, you might have some idle bounce in your future

I'm wondering if you take it to the dealer while you are showing a P0134 code, if that would be reason enough to change the O2 and if they wouldn't charge a diagnostic fee?

Selling something I presume?

 

Having the code would definitely help I'd say. On the day I went in, the code hadn't come up. If they do decide it's warranty, the fee is included as free, I just didn't feel like risking it Either way I'll get it looked at one of these days...gotta love our 6k mile Evo problems haha

 

I got a CEL twice in the past 2 weeks. It poped up on cold starts. The outside temperature would range from 9F to 28F. The CEL would go away after a few days (restarted the car few time, drove the car 50 miles). Few days later I got the CEL again. It went go away by itself after a day.

I have a 2014 GSR with 5900 miles. I pulled the p0134 front 02 sensor inactive code. It looks like it might be weather related. Many people seem to have this issue with the weather being cold, even with new cars.

 

I'm not too worried about the code itself. I live in Texas and we have mild winters, and it will be Spring soon. I don't mind clearing an occasional code.

I'm more worried about the occasional idle issues I am getting. I am leaning towards the O2 issue being the cause because the idle gets crazy during closed loop when the car is using the O2 sensors to control fuel and idle.

I have also checked all my vacuum lines, my FP hose, changed out my FP relay, had the injectors flow tested, my fuel pump flow tested, tune rechecked, fuel pressure tested, exhaust leak tested. I did not have a vacuum/boost leak checked, but my LTFT's are good, so I don't think I have one.

I am switching my maps from E85, to pump for awhile. If I still get the code and my weird idle doesn't go away, I will probably give in and buy a new O2 sensor.

 

Let her bounce!!!!

 

I had this exact same thing happen. A chunk of ice hit the front of my car on the freeway, which broke my Greddy lip in half, and also hit my front O2 sensor and damaged a harness where it had been spliced. This took forever to figure out, I tried everything you did to troubleshoot. It would wildly fluctuate. Sometimes it would get water through a broken splice, which would short out the circuit and throw the car into open loop fueling and die. Sometimes it would be fine (dry days, turns out) Or, it would short and read super rich, which caused the ECU to pull fuel and slowly creep up, dot by dot, to 18-19 AFR and die. It sucked.

Anyways, I repaired the harness but still get a slow response so I ordered a new O2 sensor.

Amazon sells them for $92 bucks on Prime

 

oem?

Is the rear O2 sensor the same as the front? Could I swap them out for troubleshooting purposes?

 

Set a new record with the idle bounce this morning. No one else has or has had this issue?

 

Running dangerously lean now during WOT. Could all of these symptoms be caused by my maf acting up?

 

I have the exact same sysmptoms as you OP. Wierd idel bounce when pushing in the clutch and comming to a stop. With the cold (-15 to -27 Celsius here usually) I constantly get my CEL come on but my code is constantly P0137 oxygen sensor 2 bank 1 low volatage.

Im using an ETS test pipe and running cobb stage 3 OTS maps. If your figure out why it's doing this let me know!

 

Well, boost leak test came out negative. I don't know what to check out next

 

I replaced the maf sensor. I plugged it in and started the car. After idling for a minute or two, the car threw a code, P0172.

LTFT IDLE has been tapped out at -12.5 for awhile now.

LTFT Cruise is probably at -7. But it fluctuates all over the place. A 10 mile drive will sometimes make it go from -2 to -7.

STFT will range from -12.5 to 12.5 in a matter of a minute.

I'm kind out of options. Any suggestions?

 

Sorry, did you actually replace the o2 sensor yet? Thats the first thing I'm going to have my tuner check next time I go...since that's the p0134 code after all

 

No I did not. I started leaning to the maf sensor because of two reasons:

1) I had a boost leak performed. To do this, the shop took off my intake and had to unplug my maf to do so. Boost leak came out negative. Intake was put back on and maf plugged back in. The next morning I drove to work. Like I said above, my LTFT's are usually all over the place. For the next couple of days they stay in tolerance. The first day, they stayed really tight. I left to work and the LTFT was 0.0 and when I got to work, they were 0.2. The car barely had any idle bounce and it wasn't leaning out as I approached a light or stop.

2) The idle issues and leaning out at a stop, were all occuring in closed loop. So I was focusing on closed loop operation. Well now the car started running lean during WOT. It was in the 14's. In the past it did this and the shop thought it was either the maf or FPR. They pulled and reinstalled both at the same time so the weren't sure what had caused the issue. But I changed out my FPR less than 500 miles ago, so now I was leaning to the MAF.

So before my issue was during closed loop. Now, the issue is during both closed and open loop. So I was thinking maf because this is used during both.

I am kind of out of mechanical ideas. I don't know what else to think other then the tune now. Unless someone has an other ideas.

I find it curious how this new maf is throwing a P0172 code, but the old maf wasn't. My tune is the same and all my fuel trims are the same.