Kendogg

I posted in another P0134 thread, that I was also getting the P0134 when starting the car when it is cold outside. But I am also having idle issues. The problem is it is not a constant issue. It comes and goes.

The other morning I threw the code and cleared it. But when reversing out of my driveway (in neutral, foot on the brake), my idle rpms hit 2k. As I continued my drive to work, and I put my foot on the clutch to brake, my rpms would stay high. By the time I am almost at work, they are high but around 1.5k.

I am also having the issue that when I approach a light or need to slow down, I put my foot on the clutch, and the rpms bounce. This causes the AFR's to also bounce.

Sometimes when I approach a stop, car in neutral and foot off the clutch, the AFR's will lean out. They will stay that way for a good 5-10 seconds. I also notice the idle drops, but not by much.

I'm wondering if these are signs of a bad O2 sensor. Or is my P0134 code separate from these weird idle issues? For example could the idle issues be maybe a boost or exhaust leak and the P0134 code just be something different? In the videos the car is pretty much fully warmed up. It's a 2013 GSR with 6k miles. Below are the videos of the different weird odd behavior my car is experiencing. I appreciate any input. I have talked to a couple other owners (on the other forum) who are having similar issues as mine. But they also have not found out why. One thinks it is a boost leak while the other thinks its their O2 sensor.


This video is when slowing down, no brake, in gear, and foot on the clutch


This video is what my AFR's do, when the idle bounces like the above video


This is a video of how the idle will bounce and hang sometimes


This is a video of when the car will sometimes lean out, after the idle has settled down. But I need to record a newer one because it leans out more and I get the (---). Sometimes lasting a good 10 seconds. The idle will drop under 1k some. Sometimes I have to tap the throttle to get it to rich out and climb back to the 14.7

Nickolai

My idle flutters/fluctuates a little, but not as extreme as your bounce. Still a little strange for a brand new vehicle. Seems like a common issue for these cars based on the number of threads online about the idle.

Didn't see you post here --> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-do-asap.html

Not sure if you saw it but something to check out if you suspect a vacuum leak.

Kendogg

It's been done. But I haven't checked it lately. About to leave work so I'll go check and let you know.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

I can speak to one issue: lean at idle.

Keep in mind that, when exhaust flow is low, it will take time for the gasses around the wide-band's sensor to match what is coming out of the engine. If the engine is switching from no fuel to idle, such as when you coast to a stop, you'll see the off-the-scale lean of fuel-cut, then a dancing drop to 14.7 (+/-) as the idle kicks in and the exhaust from idling takes over the space in the exhaust piping.

Put another way, wide-bands are great for WOT when there's tons of flow through the exhaust. They are slow-to-change and, therefore, temporally low-resolution when idling or otherwise not flowing much air.

Kendogg

Hose is good and tight

Thats all you got for me I was hoping you and kracka could fix my problem for me

I understand what you are saying about the leaning out on the wideband. Whats weird, is this behavior is kind of new for my car. What it use to do, and still does a good portion of the time, is lean out to (---) when I put in the clutch. Then jump to rich, and then lean its way back out from rich to 14.7

But what it sometimes does now, is lean out to (---), and then stay like that a good 5-10 seconds. Then it will rich out from (---) and climb to 14.7. Sometimes I have to tap the throttle to get it to rich out.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

Kracka fixes problems. I just post links to Monty Python videos.

Kendogg

And Seinfeld

Spazpilot

iTrader: (4)

Is there anyway your heat shield from you ETS intake could have moved around and the fans messing with your MAF? That's what the car does if there is no shield on the intake. Bad or dirty MAF?

Kendogg

The shop checked my maf. It was clean. Car only has 6k miles. 3k with ets intake.

If the fans are messing with the maf, would it be inconsistent? Sometimes drives like a dream, sometimes acts like it does in my videos. I haven't named my car, but I am thinking BB, for Bipolar B****!!

If my car stays in open loop, and does not go into closed leap, would it experience similar behavior as my videos?

Spazpilot

iTrader: (4)

Being that the fans kick on and off it would be inconsistent. I had the ETS intake do this on my 11 Evo. Happened when the AC was on, fairly warm (70's or warmer), fan was cycling and the car was pointed in a headwind. I readjusted my intake, trying to force the shield a little further down and it fixed my problem. I'm running the AMS on my 13 which has a better shield separate from the intake. Does way better.

Kendogg

Do the fans kick on and off if you don't have the AC on? Most (if not all) the videos, it is just vent air on.

Spazpilot

iTrader: (4)

One fan kicks on based on engine temp. The other one kicks on with the A/C compressor can't remember which one does what.

Kendogg

Update from my situation...

The shop performed a fuel pressure test. Everything came out good at was at 40psi. My tuner also drove around with me and monitored everything. But the car was (ofcourse) acting right and wasn't having any of the weird symptoms I get sometimes.

I am going to take it back to them on Friday to get the exhaust checked out. You can't here a leak, but want to get it on the lift and make sure if there is no small leak anywhere.

I have also changed out my FP relay, just to make sure it wasn't that.

I am really leaning toward a bad O2 sensor. My idle issues and the AFR leaning out, occurs during closed loop. I am also getting the P0134 code when it is cold outside. It seems unusual for an O2 sensor to go out at 6k miles, but it may have been damaged when I had my DP and exhaust changed out. Or I just may have got lucky and have a bum O2 sensor.

If the exhaust leaks test shows no leaks, then I think I will just have to give in and try a new O2 sensor. I have also had flow tests done on my injectors and fuel pump already. And my LTFT's are spot on. I dont see to many more options left.

shekaar

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the update. I haven't taken mine up to my tuner, as I was only getting the code during very cold weather. I haven't had it for a couple weeks.

Strangely, this morning with the 5" of snow on the ground and 5 degree temps, no code at all. These were the exact conditions I had it in before.

Keep us updated, I'm curious to see what you find!

Kendogg

My P0134 code only seems to pop up at freezing temps. For example, when it was 37 outside, I did not get the code.

I don't really care about the code. If all I have to do is clear it the few times it pops up, then I'm cool with that. But, the idle and leaning out does bother me. Especially that idle because it affects the overall drive-ability of the car.

I just think there is a chance the issues are all connected. And if my exhaust does not leak, I don't know what else it could be besides the O2. I would like to take it in and have it replaced under warranty but I seriously doubt that would happen.