...such as the one that used to be sold by ACD-Tuning and/or made by Kiki Turbo, please send me a PM. Thanks.

 

If u were to replace or rebuild stage 2 ayc.will u have to bleed the system?

 

I have absolutely no clue what a "stage 2 ayc" might be, so I'm afraid I can't give a specific answer. My guess is that it's an AYC with a mechanical diff, as well, but, as I said, that's a guess. In any event, any time you crack an ACD or AYC line, you must bleed the system.

 

i have heard that you don't need a bleed box or mut3.
You only need a vacuum pump.

 

Please explain the process or provide a link.

But I still need to 'talk' to someone with a tester/bleeder or the designs for such.

ps. Swedish-made vacuum pumps aren't my bag, baby

 

I just did mine with the box from ACD-Tuning. Not saying this is the correct procedure, but it seemed to work for me and no issues yet and have been to a few auto x events. Did this about a month ago and by myself, I would recommend having someone help you as you can better reach the bleeder valves.

First, using the just the pump button and pulsing it, I filled the reservoir. I started the fill by using a funnel and feeding the pump at the metal inlet pipe. Less restrictions this way. Once there was fluid up in the pump, I connected the big feed line and pulsed it little by little. You will probably need to squeeze on the fat hose at some point to remove the air bubble that forms in the reservoir because of the screen.

Once the air bubble is gone, I started with the ayc in the rear. I turned on the pump, you will hear it slow down as it builds pressure. Then I flipped the switch for the AYC and held the appropriate button for right or left as I opened the same bleeder valve. You should hear the pump not straining as much and fluid will come out of the hose. I did this in about 5-10 second bursts probably about 5 times because I was a little paranoid of just running the pump straight for a while. After getting a few ounces from each side and checking fluid level I figured I was done.

The center dif seemed to flow more smoothly for me. But basically followed the same process. Because the bleeder was farther away, I ended up building pressure in the line and then relieving it at the bleeder. After doing that twice, I just opened the bleeder a bit and ran the pump and watched fluid flow through the hose. Again after a few ounces figured I was done, killed the pump and slide under the car to close the bleeder. A little fluid will back up this way but I'm not really concerned as there were no air bubbles at the time.

Hope this helps.

 

That's a fantastic description of the bleeding process, including the bench-bleeding of the pump at the beginning.

PM sent.

 

What type tools size?this to drain/refill ayc?standard torx or metric?i dont have any tools.most of bolts to work on evos are metric or standard?

 

Evos are metric. 14 and 17mm are the most frequent sizes. There are some Torx bolts on the seat; never seen them anywhere else.

As to what are needed to drain and refill the AYC, my guess is that you're talking about swapping the fluids in the diff and what you'll be doing has nothing to do with the pump. You'll need some metric sockets.

ps. thanks to kalpakiotis, the original request in this thread has been met

 

Tools needed for the fluids of the ayc/acd i believe is a 10mm hex driver and 10, 17,19 and 24mm wrench/sockets. its and odd assortment of tools for changing all the fluids in each case.