Issues after engine swap
Issues after engine swap
Hey guys,
I am having some issues after I did an engine swap in my evo. I went from fully built & sleeved with a 6266 to a 100% stock everything. The engine is out of a 2010 with 45,000 miles on it.
I reflashed my car back to stock (thanks XRATEDX)- but I did it while I didn't have everything plugged in (I had just mounted the engine up and hadn't plugged everything in at the time) I don't think that should have effected anything so the tune should be right. (Or am I wrong?)
When I turn my car over it just wants to die though. It idles like ****, but if I keep on giving it gas after a few minutes it will idle somewhat decent (at like 1700rpm though). Also when I am idling I cannot push on the throttle without it just bogging and dieing, where it should accelerate and ramp up RPMs.
What do you guys think? I have a few things I am going to try these things to see if I can get her to run right. Thanks for all your guys' help and opinions!
What I am trying to do:
-Fill up with fresh gas. Car has sat for 2 months on an amost empty tank- figured this cant hurt!
-pull spark plugs and check them (They came with motor and I was told they were good)
-I bought the original vacuum lines for the boost controller from a member and am going to put those on tonight- that way I can definitely rule out any vacuum line leaks and/or running the lines wrong
-Pull and inspect every single line in the engine bay and reclamp them all down to ensure no leaks and/or tears in lines from putting the motor together and sitting so long.
If those don't work I will probable pull the fuel pump again and check the sock. My dad (a diesel mechanic a couple states away) said it could also be a plugged fuel filter. Maybe I was just oblivious to it, but the only fuel filter on the car is the one in the tank correct? I will inspect, and try to clean (any tips here?) and replace if I have to- so I can know that it isn't a plugged filter down there.
Lastly if that doesn't work I will buy a new set of injectors and test them out in the car to see if maybe the injectors I had bought were bad also. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions or ideas for me.
Thanks a ton guys!!!!!!!!
EDIT: Should I possibly try to reflash my car again just for ****s and giggles? I flashed a 2008 stock tune on it, maybe I need to flash a 2010 tune on it cause that's what year the motor is?
I am having some issues after I did an engine swap in my evo. I went from fully built & sleeved with a 6266 to a 100% stock everything. The engine is out of a 2010 with 45,000 miles on it.
I reflashed my car back to stock (thanks XRATEDX)- but I did it while I didn't have everything plugged in (I had just mounted the engine up and hadn't plugged everything in at the time) I don't think that should have effected anything so the tune should be right. (Or am I wrong?)
When I turn my car over it just wants to die though. It idles like ****, but if I keep on giving it gas after a few minutes it will idle somewhat decent (at like 1700rpm though). Also when I am idling I cannot push on the throttle without it just bogging and dieing, where it should accelerate and ramp up RPMs.
What do you guys think? I have a few things I am going to try these things to see if I can get her to run right. Thanks for all your guys' help and opinions!
What I am trying to do:
-Fill up with fresh gas. Car has sat for 2 months on an amost empty tank- figured this cant hurt!
-pull spark plugs and check them (They came with motor and I was told they were good)
-I bought the original vacuum lines for the boost controller from a member and am going to put those on tonight- that way I can definitely rule out any vacuum line leaks and/or running the lines wrong
-Pull and inspect every single line in the engine bay and reclamp them all down to ensure no leaks and/or tears in lines from putting the motor together and sitting so long.
If those don't work I will probable pull the fuel pump again and check the sock. My dad (a diesel mechanic a couple states away) said it could also be a plugged fuel filter. Maybe I was just oblivious to it, but the only fuel filter on the car is the one in the tank correct? I will inspect, and try to clean (any tips here?) and replace if I have to- so I can know that it isn't a plugged filter down there.
Lastly if that doesn't work I will buy a new set of injectors and test them out in the car to see if maybe the injectors I had bought were bad also. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions or ideas for me.
Thanks a ton guys!!!!!!!!
EDIT: Should I possibly try to reflash my car again just for ****s and giggles? I flashed a 2008 stock tune on it, maybe I need to flash a 2010 tune on it cause that's what year the motor is?
I had a similar issue with my Geo Metro 3 cylinder (I know
). Ended up being a short from the coolant temp sensor causing the ECU to think the engine was a lot warmer.
It was basically coming out of cold-start far too early and failing to run rich to keep the revs high. Short verified using an Ultragauge monitoring engine temp which jumped to 220* about 2 seconds after starting the engine (the shaking of the engine exhibited the short, without vibration the reading was fine during engine-off testing)
Never had this issue on my Evo's. Good luck tough. My guess is a sensor if you are sure there's no leaks. Otherwise perhaps your IAC stepper isn't calibrated properly (BISS screw) or perhaps the IAC is bad.
). Ended up being a short from the coolant temp sensor causing the ECU to think the engine was a lot warmer. It was basically coming out of cold-start far too early and failing to run rich to keep the revs high. Short verified using an Ultragauge monitoring engine temp which jumped to 220* about 2 seconds after starting the engine (the shaking of the engine exhibited the short, without vibration the reading was fine during engine-off testing)
Never had this issue on my Evo's. Good luck tough. My guess is a sensor if you are sure there's no leaks. Otherwise perhaps your IAC stepper isn't calibrated properly (BISS screw) or perhaps the IAC is bad.
Last edited by acidtonic; Aug 14, 2014 at 02:24 PM.
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