Is the SST on Evo X reliable
Apr 29, 2015, 10:25 AM
#16
Evolved Member
I would even say the around 350 wheel torque is the real limit for the SST
Higher torque can be held with upgraded clutches, but eric @ kozmic has reported torquing/bending of the clutch basket @ around 450 wheel torque and the trans case starts to flex around that same power level, binding up the valve bodies.
But like @Napalm_Enema said, the biggest limiting factor, to an extent, is $$$.
Im sure if you cared to make the case and basket out of titanium or something more power could be held but by that point for the same (or probably less) $$$$ you could go with a full sequential dog box with pneumatic paddle shifters.
That would be badass.
Higher torque can be held with upgraded clutches, but eric @ kozmic has reported torquing/bending of the clutch basket @ around 450 wheel torque and the trans case starts to flex around that same power level, binding up the valve bodies.
But like @Napalm_Enema said, the biggest limiting factor, to an extent, is $$$.
Im sure if you cared to make the case and basket out of titanium or something more power could be held but by that point for the same (or probably less) $$$$ you could go with a full sequential dog box with pneumatic paddle shifters.
That would be badass.
Spoke with him in person and learned more about SST's in 20 minutes than I ever thought possible. He's like a machine gun spew of intimate knowledge and very personable.
Mad scientist for sure, but I didn't get the impression he would want to harvest anything to build a better EVO. (yet)
Apr 29, 2015, 10:54 AM
#17
Evolving Member
My goal of 400hp/330tq SHOULD be lots of fun with minimal breakage. And since power levels are limited, the focus will be on efficiency after that.
@chetrickerman inspired me to have the WPC treatment done to every moving part i can (as funds permit) and to shed some weight.
End goal is to have a quick, fast, and agile car with reasonable maintenance and minimal downtime. Although i guess that's the goal for anyone with a street-driven sports car.
Apr 29, 2015, 12:29 PM
#19
Evolving Member
The internal filter is not accessible unless you open the trans case. This filter is unserviceable unless the trans is already out of the car.
The external should be changed EVERY TIME you change fluid (same as an engine oil change). Also, don't bother with the stainless filter. You get better filtration with the stock one.
SST oil/filter should be changed every 20K roughly (depends on usage, more frequent if you track the car)
OH, and stick to the Mitsu Diaqueen (sp?) fluid. Anything else WILL funk up the SST.
And finally, if the "Mitsu shop" didn't already know that i would never take your car to them.
Apr 29, 2015, 05:51 PM
#22
Evolving Member
It has been long established that the service intervals recommended by mitsu are far too long.
1st oil/filter change should happen around 10-15K, then every 20-25K after that for street driven cars. More often if you track the car.
DO NOT wait till 30K for the first oil/filter change. You are breaking in the clutches when the car is new. And you're probably doing at least some (if not all) driving in normal mode. Normal mode (and sport mode to an extent) slip the clutches for smoother engagement and shifts. And as the clutches slip, they wear. Then all that friction material that is worn off the clutches is now circulating with the fluid, gumming up the valve bodies. The filters catch most of the big stuff, but it only takes a small amount of material build up before you start having issues.
Got around 10K on your SST? Go pull the filter and it will be immediately obvious that it needs to be changed.
When i did mine at 13K, the filter was heavily coated in friction material. And after the oil/filter change there was a noticeable difference in smoothness of operation.
Apr 29, 2015, 08:15 PM
#24
In normal or sport the clutches slip more than S Sport so wear the clutches faster and generate more heat.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
fixed it on the later models. We would actively left foot break and barely touch the gas to engage. There was write ups about this back then on how to force the clutches to engage when stopped, there wasn't a need to put it into neutral to get them to disengage. Again, maybe changed that, but sounds unnecessary to me.
Apr 29, 2015, 08:42 PM
#25
Evolved Member
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that has changed. On my 08 that was definitely not the case of the clutches being engages at a stop. The clutches full disengaged, which is why there is lag stepping on the gas from a dead stop out into traffic. I do know a lot of people complained about this, so maybe fixed it on the later models. We would actively left foot break and barely touch the gas to engage. There was write ups about this back then on how to force the clutches to engage when stopped, there wasn't a need to put it into neutral to get them to disengage. Again, maybe changed that, but sounds unnecessary to me.
fixed it on the later models. We would actively left foot break and barely touch the gas to engage. There was write ups about this back then on how to force the clutches to engage when stopped, there wasn't a need to put it into neutral to get them to disengage. Again, maybe changed that, but sounds unnecessary to me.It's really not much effort and I am so used to it I don't even notice anymore lol.
Apr 29, 2015, 10:42 PM
#26
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that has changed. On my 08 that was definitely not the case of the clutches being engages at a stop. The clutches full disengaged, which is why there is lag stepping on the gas from a dead stop out into traffic. I do know a lot of people complained about this, so maybe fixed it on the later models. We would actively left foot break and barely touch the gas to engage. There was write ups about this back then on how to force the clutches to engage when stopped, there wasn't a need to put it into neutral to get them to disengage. Again, maybe changed that, but sounds unnecessary to me.
fixed it on the later models. We would actively left foot break and barely touch the gas to engage. There was write ups about this back then on how to force the clutches to engage when stopped, there wasn't a need to put it into neutral to get them to disengage. Again, maybe changed that, but sounds unnecessary to me.
Apr 30, 2015, 04:03 PM
#28
In normal or sport the clutches slip more than S Sport so wear the clutches faster and generate more heat.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
Apr 30, 2015, 04:19 PM
#29
Evolved Member
I downshift to a stop and put it in neutral after 2nd. I sometimes throw it into first if I need to brake fast or I am hauling *** through a corner.
Interesting yours is jerky, mine after warming up in S-Sport is very smooth...
Interesting yours is jerky, mine after warming up in S-Sport is very smooth...
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Mtamoria1 (May 9, 2019)