Front end clunking
Sep 19, 2017, 06:15 AM
#1
Front end clunking
Yes- there have been dozens of threads on this already, but for the life of me, I just cant't seem to find the source of this sound.
The clunk is only heard when you hit any kind of bumps in the road, like pot holes and such. So far I've checked the top hats, calipers, and the sway bar end links. It almost sounds like someones knocking on the door a few times whenever you hit a bump. I can try getting an audio/video clip, but I'm not sure if it'll be loud enough to overcome exhaust drone.
Has anyone else had clunking noises that were fixed? Or is there anywhere else I should be looking for worn/loose parts?
The clunk is only heard when you hit any kind of bumps in the road, like pot holes and such. So far I've checked the top hats, calipers, and the sway bar end links. It almost sounds like someones knocking on the door a few times whenever you hit a bump. I can try getting an audio/video clip, but I'm not sure if it'll be loud enough to overcome exhaust drone.
Has anyone else had clunking noises that were fixed? Or is there anywhere else I should be looking for worn/loose parts?
Sep 19, 2017, 10:01 AM
#2
Evolved Member
When you checked the swaybars / endlinks, was the suspension loaded or unloaded? It should be loaded when you adjust all that. I'd get it up on ramps then loosen and re-tighten the swaybars / endlinks and ensure you have sufficient lublication in the middle part of the endlink if it has that rubber gasket piece. If you did all this already, and checked it with the suspension loaded, might be another issue.
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jakgal04 (Sep 19, 2017)
Sep 19, 2017, 10:37 AM
#3
When you checked the swaybars / endlinks, was the suspension loaded or unloaded? It should be loaded when you adjust all that. I'd get it up on ramps then loosen and re-tighten the swaybars / endlinks and ensure you have sufficient lublication in the middle part of the endlink if it has that rubber gasket piece. If you did all this already, and checked it with the suspension loaded, might be another issue.
Sep 19, 2017, 12:58 PM
#4
Evolving Member
So with this being an 08 you might have to pull one of the front wheels, pull the shock and spring off and check that the bearing that is in the top hat isn't going out. This will cause the plate at the top of the spring to wobble and make a funny noise.
( the plate i'm taking about has the 3 bolts attached to it that go up into the car and attach to the brace across the firewall)
( the plate i'm taking about has the 3 bolts attached to it that go up into the car and attach to the brace across the firewall)
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jakgal04 (Sep 19, 2017)
Sep 19, 2017, 01:56 PM
#5
So with this being an 08 you might have to pull one of the front wheels, pull the shock and spring off and check that the bearing that is in the top hat isn't going out. This will cause the plate at the top of the spring to wobble and make a funny noise.
( the plate i'm taking about has the 3 bolts attached to it that go up into the car and attach to the brace across the firewall)
( the plate i'm taking about has the 3 bolts attached to it that go up into the car and attach to the brace across the firewall)
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jakgal04 (Sep 19, 2017)
Sep 20, 2017, 07:22 AM
#7
I haven't. I think for the price it's worth it. Though, compressing the springs is the only tough part. A set of spring compressors and an impact gun make it very quick. Mark your bolts with a marker or white pencil so you can keep your alignment in order when things go back together.
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Sep 20, 2017, 07:25 AM
#8
Evolving Member
The strut mount is the plate that i was talking about that has the bearing in it that goes out all the time..... I have done a number of lowering spring replacement on my MR and my friends EVOs The strut mount has to come off when you do springs. Its held on by 1 nut at the top and then kind of pressed on to the strut. The most important part of this job is to make sure the top plate that the spring is held in place with is pointed in the right direction. This video talks about it and is the video i used to learn on how to replace springs.(
Extreme PSI has them for too, a bit more money but they have good pictures and a diagram of how the struct goes together. check it out
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...roductid=31362
Sep 20, 2017, 05:45 PM
#9
Can you put the link to the part from them up so we can check it out?
The strut mount is the plate that i was talking about that has the bearing in it that goes out all the time..... I have done a number of lowering spring replacement on my MR and my friends EVOs The strut mount has to come off when you do springs. Its held on by 1 nut at the top and then kind of pressed on to the strut. The most important part of this job is to make sure the top plate that the spring is held in place with is pointed in the right direction. This video talks about it and is the video i used to learn on how to replace springs.( https://youtu.be/rYGrtuE2P6Q )
Extreme PSI has them for too, a bit more money but they have good pictures and a diagram of how the struct goes together. check it out
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...roductid=31362
The strut mount is the plate that i was talking about that has the bearing in it that goes out all the time..... I have done a number of lowering spring replacement on my MR and my friends EVOs The strut mount has to come off when you do springs. Its held on by 1 nut at the top and then kind of pressed on to the strut. The most important part of this job is to make sure the top plate that the spring is held in place with is pointed in the right direction. This video talks about it and is the video i used to learn on how to replace springs.( https://youtu.be/rYGrtuE2P6Q )
Extreme PSI has them for too, a bit more money but they have good pictures and a diagram of how the struct goes together. check it out
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...roductid=31362
Awesome, I'll check that video out. Here is the rock auto part http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/m...rut+mount,7600
Sep 20, 2017, 05:50 PM
#10
I haven't. I think for the price it's worth it. Though, compressing the springs is the only tough part. A set of spring compressors and an impact gun make it very quick. Mark your bolts with a marker or white pencil so you can keep your alignment in order when things go back together.
Now that I think of it, if I'm just going to replace the top hats, it might even be possible to unbolt the top strut bolt and 3 top hat bolts with the car on the ground, then lift the car to take the top hat off without ever needing to unbolt the bottom of the strut. Think it would be possible? I'm sure I'll find out when I climb under it Friday lol
Sep 21, 2017, 06:28 AM
#11
Evolving Member
Awesome, I'll check that video out. Here is the rock auto part http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/m...rut+mount,7600
I would also call
and ask them what it would be from them. the RA one looks a little different than I remember but I'm sure they wouldnt sell it if it wasnt a direct replacement.... or i would hope not anyways! Good luck, also you will need an alignment when you are done with all this.... just and FYI
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jakgal04 (Sep 21, 2017)
Sep 21, 2017, 10:42 AM
#12
Im sure that one will work fine. Just make sure that you press the bearing in all the way as it looks like they sell it as two different parts.
I would also call and ask them what it would be from them. the RA one looks a little different than I remember but I'm sure they wouldnt sell it if it wasnt a direct replacement.... or i would hope not anyways!
Good luck, also you will need an alignment when you are done with all this.... just and FYI
I would also call
and ask them what it would be from them. the RA one looks a little different than I remember but I'm sure they wouldnt sell it if it wasnt a direct replacement.... or i would hope not anyways! Good luck, also you will need an alignment when you are done with all this.... just and FYI
. We'll see how it goes lol
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