kush_evoxgsr

So first off - I have been mainly a reader on these forums. And now I am finally in the position where I have the time and space to start doing some of own work. The car is at 50K miles, and is bone stock. (Yep, that is not a typo!). The main reason being that I want to learn to be more mechanically involved and get some wrenching experience as I begin to mod it and get some more time on the track etc. I didnt try working on the car earlier since I wasnt sure how long I plan keeping the car (for reasons other than the car itself, I love the car and will be very difficult for me to part with it), and wanted to have service records handy if I was forced to sell the car. And while I was doing all this waiting, I slowly ordered some tools for me to have around - hoping I can eventually start working on my car and now the day has arrived!

Now - I am ready to do my first oil change, and I figured I would do the spark plugs as well. Also, the wipers seem to be leaving streaks, so I thought I would replace them as well.
First up : Jack the front up by doing one side at a time and using the pinch rails as per the service manual. The under tray will get in the way of using that central arm to raise the whole front up at once so, I will have to do the sides. I have a jack, jack stands and some ramps as well. The ramps were more of an after thought. I wont use them, but will place them under the tires as safety I guess - or maybe not?
Oil Change Parts : Mitsu Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W30 (full synthetic) - I am not sure if I will get a crush washer with the filter, if not I will run to a nearby store and get a pack of M14 crush washers. I think other pointers I read were - have a oil filter wrench to make removing it easier, Pre-fill the filter, smear some oil on the seal, hand tighten it. Anything other pointers?
Spark Plugs : NGK Iridium ILKR8E6. They do come pre gapped - but I have a gap tool to check the width and compare with the manual. I suppose after hand tightening them, it was said to go a further 3/4 turn in the manual. Will follow that. Also some how to videos and write ups said to apply some anti-seize compound on the threads? Is that really needed?
Wiper Blades : Bosch Icon Wipers. Tutorial was pretty easy to follow. No questions here.

I am not entirely mechanically inept, however I understand this may be very basic work, but I need to start somewhere I suppose. With that - any other pointer/tips y'all have would be greatly appreciated!

Parts should get here the following week, so hoping to get wrenching then!

kaj

iTrader: (60)

For the oil filter, I usually punch a hole in it to let it drain. I then put the screwdriver back in and use it as a "handle" to loosen it. I do prefer to use a wrench, though. Crush washers sometimes work more than once. Don't over-torque it.
I always check the gap on the plugs (be careful, if iridium) and anti-seize is pretty much required to prevent things from getting stuck. Don't over-torque those either.

That's about all I got. It's pretty straight forward and it sounds like you have your ducks in a row.

Biggiesacks

use the ramps, no need to get the car on jacks if your only going to be doing an oil change. If you haven't already, you should get rubber covers for your jack stands so you don't munch up your rails, I wish i had known this back when i was getting started. Iv'e seen people use blocks of wood, that never struck me as terribly safe though, but it does depend a lot on the shape of your stands. For the floor jack I like using hockey pucks to keep it from munching anything.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I use these with my lift and jack, though it's a little late now..: lol:


9

xerxess

kush_evoxgsr

Its not too late yet for the rubber pucks haha - parts are still on route.
Yes, I plan on leaving that undertray panel off till to check for leaks after starting it up and checking the level.
Sweet! Thanks for info!

CaptainCrunch

Curious.. if I've been running my car, do I check the oil levels after letting it cool for a few minutes? Right after I shut it down? Or after its completely cooled, and then run for a minute or so?

Biggiesacks

manual says to measure it at operating temperature 1 minute after shutting the engine off.

CaptainCrunch

HA! I checked the manual.. mine doesn't say that! Thanks!

xerxess

Biggiesacks

maybe im just getting my manuals mixed up. 2010 Evo X says wait a few minutes. I'm talkin about the Factory service manual though not the owners manual.

CaptainCrunch

Thanks. I was always curious and figured this was as good a moment as any to ask.

Ohhhh, the service manual, got it. Thanks. Fully warmed up, wait a few.. check. Got it!

1fastmf

You, and the few people left on this site, might want to consider changing all the oils. I have the GSR, and I just changed oil in the transmission, transfer case, and both rear diff compartments. I could not believe the absolute crap condition of the drained oils, especially the transmission. No metal on the chip detectors at all, which is a very good sign.

I have 85,000 miles, and owned it since new. Believe me, I dont abuse the car. Of course I use all of the performance a good deal, but I dont do 5,500 RPM clutch dumps and the like.

I had it done two days ago at the dealer. Its a bit of a reach to do it yourself if you dont have a lift. I'm generally not a big fan of going to a dealer for this kind of stuff, but the typical oil change places really dont see a lot of these cars, and there's no way that I would let them do these boxes.

Only reason that I did this was because I'm going to switch to a bigger turbo, and want the rest of the drivetrain up to the task. I should have changed these oils a few years ago.

Biggiesacks

You waited 85k miles to do the drivetrain fluids?

Edit: not trying to **** on you or anything. Sometimes you don't know what you don't know, but you gotta change the fluids a lot more often then that. Otherwise yah.... you are abusing the car.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

If so ,that around explain things.