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Flashing Check Engine light problem

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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 12:56 AM
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From: Castlegar
Flashing Check Engine light problem

Alright, so I recently purchased a 2008 Evo in good condition and nothing really wrong with the car. I got the car inspected and it breezes through the inspection, but the problem I am having today is that sometimes when I start to accelerate, my check engine light starts flashing momentarily and then goes away. It can be unpredictable at times because sometimes when I accelerate hard, it won’t flash at all, but other times it will flash until I let off the gas. If someone knows what the problem is and could steer me in the right direction that would be great. Thank you
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 01:49 AM
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Most likely you are tuned, and this is the knock indicator letting you know the engine is experiencing knock.

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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaraxle
Most likely you are tuned, and this is the knock indicator letting you know the engine is experiencing knock.
Yeah, most of us have the option installed on the Tephra program to indicate the presence of knock.

Being that you just purchased this 08, it would be a good idea to have the toon checked out

Last edited by MinusPrevious; Nov 12, 2018 at 09:39 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 08:58 AM
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Yeah, I would definitely take it in to have the tune looked at/checked. It could be someone removed some mods before selling it and now the tune doesn't match the mods. Stay out of boost until you get it sorted or you're likely to blow it up......
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 11:45 AM
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Make sure your intake has a heat shield. If its missing then that's your problem
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 06:05 AM
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EVOscan should be able to give you a knock count if you want to know for sure, but these guys are probably right. It is a knock warning. Typically factory OBDII cars would flash the CEL for a "catalyst damaging misfire" but unless it feels real funky, you probably aren't down a cylinder.
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:43 PM
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The tune problem is what I initially thought but I’m trumped with the fact that I live in a small town and don’t have any local tuners, I also am a bit scared because I have to drive the car 2000km down south in a week or so and I don’t think I will be able to fix the problem before then
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:07 AM
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If the car is 100% stock (no intake, downpipe, etc.) you can get the dealer to reflash it..... If it has any open recalls they may do it for free.
There are quite a few shops/tuners who will do remote / e-tunes so it's possible that the PO had a remote tune done or possibly just loaded the Tephra mod themselves. I've also met folks who have driven 6+ hours to get to a tuner they trust.
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:12 AM
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You could try running an octane booster to reduce the chance of knock. Ideally just stay out of WOT and you shouldn't see any knock. If you are knocking at part throttle it is either phantom knock or you have a big problem.
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:00 AM
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From: Castlegar
Would getting a Cobb accessport and then using a Cobb map possibly fix the problem? I honestly don’t care for the tune that is currently on the car, I honestly just need to do the easiest and quickest fix possible and wouldn’t mind spending money on an accessport anyway.

Last edited by Devinv1337; Nov 14, 2018 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Devinv1337
Would getting a Cobb accessport and then using a Cobb map possibly fix the problem? I honestly don’t care for the tune that is currently on the car, I honestly just need to do the easiest and quickest fix possible and wouldn’t mind spending money on an accessport anyway.
Don't waste money on the AP. Get in touch with a tuner local or remove to help. Quickies fix is not always the best. Do it right the first time.
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 03:47 PM
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If you don't know what the modifications are on the car, slapping an access port on may make things worse. I'd get a qualified shop to look at it, else take detailed pictures of your engine bay so people can weigh in on what parts you may / may not be running. Then if you are close to a tuner, get it on the dyno, and tuned for whatever parts are on the car. If your'e not close to a tuner there are a lot of good tuners that will work with you remotely. WTFTuned.com is one of them, there are many others but I know that guy does good work. Kozmic Motorsports is another, but I don't know if they do the remote tuning or not.

Good luck, but until you know what's on your car and are tuned for it, drive it easy and don't romp on it slamming gears else you might be in for an expensive surprise.
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 04:37 PM
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You don't even know what the actual problem is yet, so it's impossible to say what will fix it. You need to do more diag. Just the CEL flashing isn't enough info..
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 05:41 PM
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From: Castlegar
I know what mods I have on, and like I’ve stated a few times, I don’t have any way of bringing the car to a tuning shop, I don’t have any hardware for data logging or monitoring really anything so I’d just like to know why getting an accessport is really a bad idea, or even make it worse.
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 07:25 PM
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You can get a proper tune, and the hardware to do it, working remotely with a tech, for less than an accessport. Why is an accessport even on your roadmap? Contact WTFTuned he sells the whole little kit then you work it out get tuned up and enjoy your car.

Accessports are 600 bucks. The option above is like around 450 I'd guess?

Other option - go stock. Lots of people sell stock parts. Remove the things that are making your car go boom until you can afford to tune for them, then put them back on with a proper tune.

If you just ignore it you could have a bigger repair bill down the road than fixing it with the option outlined at the top. Good luck
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