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I’m new to the forum so what’s up EvolutionM world! I have what I think in an incredible deal on an MR Touring but I have no experience with hail damage. The car has 51k miles and is relatively stock (intake, tune, boost controller, and tein coil overs). They are asking $9k. The only (MAJOR) issue is the car was destroyed in a hail storm. I’m going to swap the hood and trunk out for cf but the rest of the car needs major work.
What I’m looking for...
1. Is it a good deal?
2. Money aside, can it even be fixed?
3. If it can be fixed are we thinking paint less dent repair or bondo half the car? If you’ve had experience in this please throw me some sort of estimate. 🙏
Welcome, I just bought an X not too long ago as well. I've had a Mustang 16' GT, Honda 05' S2000, and an 02' Acura RSX-s. The Evo X is my favorite so far.
Headliner will come down, new window moldings, paintless dent repair CAN do all of that, but that's going to be a big big job. Some of the dents on the body lines will not look quite right after repair, it won't be perfect without bodywork.
I think you got a great deal. Personally, I'd leave the dents and make it a track car.
If I wanted it to look nice, I'd bet about $75 per dent for paintless dent repair. More for the ones on the roof.
Welcome, I just bought an X not too long ago as well. I've had a Mustang 16' GT, Honda 05' S2000, and an 02' Acura RSX-s. The Evo X is my favorite so far.
Headliner will come down, new window moldings, paintless dent repair CAN do all of that, but that's going to be a big big job. Some of the dents on the body lines will not look quite right after repair, it won't be perfect without bodywork.
I think you got a great deal. Personally, I'd leave the dents and make it a track car.
If I wanted it to look nice, I'd bet about $75 per dent for paintless dent repair. More for the ones on the roof.
A body shop would probably be ~$1,300 per panel
I would LOVE to make it a track car but it’s automatic . I’m trying to make it a daily driver for under 15k which means I have 6k to repair/play with. If I can get it repaired for cheap enough then I can sell it and buy a manual track car.
Im getting quoted about 2k for the damage (not including trunk and hood.)
Do you think the roof going is a for sure?? I’d imagine that’s a big deal with it being a sunroof
The sunroof equipped Evo X has a steel roof, not aluminum like the non-sunroof equipped version. The skin itself is about $400-$500 cheaper than the aluminum version. Part #5290B033
Trunk lid is also steel (on every Evo X)
Part #5920A097
Hood is aluminum (and expensive new)
Part #5900A244
Fenders are aluminum (also expensive new)
Right side Part #5220C878
Left side Part #5220C877
For the aluminum parts, I would just purchase replacements as they will never look good again. Def don't use bondo on them.
This is going to be truly up to you. Getting it factory fresh will cost you more than you DD budget for sure. Getting close might cost you a few grand which would be appealing as long as little dents/waves in the body aren't going to drive you nuts.
I would send some pics of that roof to the local PDR guys to see if they'll even touch it before I considered buying the car. Getting a body shop to re-skin that roof would be $$$.
You could probably source a roof/trunk/fenders used if you are patient for a solid deal so if you can use on the roof skin/doors/rear fenders, you could get the car to be reasonably straight in your budget.
If you were looking for a good base to build a show or race car, this would be a great deal. As a DD, it's going to be up to your tolerance for having an imperfect car.
It can definitely be fixed. But to make it look perfect will be tough and expensive. I would aim for a 7/10 for a goal as far as exterior.
I would get a new hood, new trunk, fenders, and let a body shop fill the rest. That might be getting past your budget of 6k though. Finding used parts might not be too bad and save you some $ so start with that route.
I would LOVE to make it a track car but it’s automatic . I’m trying to make it a daily driver for under 15k which means I have 6k to repair/play with. If I can get it repaired for cheap enough then I can sell it and buy a manual track car.
Im getting quoted about 2k for the damage (not including trunk and hood.)
Mine is an automatic, and honestly I think it's going to be better.
I've only driven manual for 10 years till I got this car, and the SST is amazing.
I'm having Kozmic install a 12 plate clutch for around $3,500 in the coming months.
Even though I have the AMS trans cooler, I'm still opting for the heated sump kit they make.
If you keep the fluid in good shape, and the temps under control, it should manage just fine. ALWAYS DRIVE IN S-Sport MODE. Kozmic motorsports strongly suggested that, in order to reduce clutch slip.
(flip to sport mode, then hold the switch up till it flips to S-Sport while at a stop)
To be able to hold boost and keep the pedal to the floor during shifts if quite a nice feeling. Gets you from 20-120 real quick.
The sunroof equipped Evo X has a steel roof, not aluminum like the non-sunroof equipped version. The skin itself is about $400-$500 cheaper than the aluminum version. Part #5290B033
Trunk lid is also steel (on every Evo X)
Part #5920A097
Hood is aluminum (and expensive new)
Part #5900A244
Fenders are aluminum (also expensive new)
Right side Part #5220C878
Left side Part #5220C877
For the aluminum parts, I would just purchase replacements as they will never look good again. Def don't use bondo on them.
Everything else is steel.
Thank you for typing that out! That is a massive help. I’ll be calling around tomorrow to price them out.
Mine is an automatic, and honestly I think it's going to be better.
I've only driven manual for 10 years till I got this car, and the SST is amazing.
I'm having Kozmic install a 12 plate clutch for around $3,500 in the coming months.
Even though I have the AMS trans cooler, I'm still opting for the heated sump kit they make.
If you keep the fluid in good shape, and the temps under control, it should manage just fine. ALWAYS DRIVE IN S-Sport MODE. Kozmic motorsports strongly suggested that, in order to reduce clutch slip.
(flip to sport mode, then hold the switch up till it flips to S-Sport while at a stop)
To be able to hold boost and keep the pedal to the floor during shifts if quite a nice feeling. Gets you from 20-120 real quick.
How much horse power can the stock SST clutch realistically handle? I’ve seen numbers all over the place. I want a DD with 400-450 stock turbo.
Also, I was reading the product notes on the ams trans cooler and noticed it only works with the factory intercooler... seems odd that they would do that. I live in south Florida.. how necessary do you think a trans cooler is. I think the heated sump kit would be obsolete for down here.
Also, I was reading the product notes on the ams trans cooler and noticed it only works with the factory intercooler... seems odd that they would do that. I live in south Florida.. how necessary do you think a trans cooler is. I think the heated sump kit would be obsolete for down here.
Intercooler PIPE. You can use any aftermarket intercooler you want as long as you can keep the OEM lower intercooler piping, which you can on 95% of the aftermarket intercoolers. I am still using the OEM lower piping with 640whp.
Take a look at the club spec chicago SST cooler and mounts. Much better deal than AMS.
You won't make 450 on the stock turbo. The clutches are rated in torque anyway.
The heated sump is better. It uses your cooling system to remove heat from the fluid, in also to heat it up faster.
On the track, I'd just plug my AMS cooler fan back in, so I get additional cooling if needed.
The 12 disc clutch kit I'm getting it rated around 425 torque on the reliable long lasting side. Taran @ Kozmic recommended that, because anything higher would probably need a rebuild every couple years.
According to RevWorks in Florida, my car slips the clutch at 300 torque however I disagree. I've cleared the clutch slip codes that were on the car when I bought it, and have since not slipped even in the hardest pulls at 20F ambient air temp. I know I'm probably making around 430whp. My car was originally tuned by AMS to make 510whp on 93 octane. I'll know in a week or so roughly once my cables get in and I get the oil out of my intercooler from that frozen catch can nonsense...
$5,000 for a heated sump, and 12 disc kit. Includes the labor, and valve body checks and programming @ Kozmic. It's a great deal, and they know their ****.
As for Stock HP capability, it's in torque. A good tune can keep torque low and controlled throughout the curve. Also, drive in S-Sport.
Even though I'm in Iowa, I'm going to revisit Blackhawk Farms in Beloit. That was my first ever track day, in a 16 Ford Mustang GT. Track driving is all about heat management really. From the engine to the brake, to the differentials.
According to RevWorks in Florida, my car slips the clutch at 300 torque however I disagree. I've cleared the clutch slip codes that were on the car when I bought it, and have since not slipped even in the hardest pulls at 20F ambient air temp. I know I'm probably making around 430whp. My car was originally tuned by AMS to make 510whp on 93 octane. I'll know in a week or so roughly once my cables get in and I get the oil out of my intercooler from that frozen catch can nonsense...
You can easily log your clutch slip and clutch pressures with Evoscan. It also has a lot to do with the tune on the car, as even a stock MR can slip with improper tuning.
So I had to pass on the hail damaged evo. The roof wAs going to cost me a fortune and it made it not worth it..... but I did buy my fist evo today. Here’s the specs from eBay... Thoughts???
FULLY BUILT 2013 MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION X GSR 800HP (OVER $25K in MODS)
Here is your chance to own a SUPER CLEAN and BEAUTIFUL BUILT 2013 MITSUBISHI EVO X and SAVE yourself THOUSANDS! This EVO is comes to you FULLY BUILT from the ground up from UMS Tuning making 800hp on E85. Car has been very well taken care of with a great service history. Super Smooth, Super Powerful, and Super Fun. DON"T miss your chance on owning such a well built and maintained car. Evo has less than 5K miles on full Build, 78k Miles on chassis. Evo comes with:
FULLY BUILT 4B11T 2.0L MOTOR WISECO PISTONS, MANLEY PRO SERIES RODS KING MITSUBISHI 4B11T ROD BEARING SET ATP GTX35R EVOX TURBO MAP DIRECT FIT TURBO MANIFOLD ARP HEADSTUD KIT RADIUM EVOX IN TANK HANGER RADIUM FUEL FEED, FILTER, AND LINE KIT WALBRO 450HP PUMP EXEDY R2 HYPER MULTI DISC AEM X-SERIES WIDEBAND AEM X-SERIES BOOST PRESSURE GAUGE BUILT 5-SPEED TRANSMISSION EVO 9 REAR END
AFTERMARKET WHEELS
Power Windows Power Door Locks CD / Radio CLEAN CARFAX CLEAN/CLEAR TITLE AND MUCH MUCH MORE. .
This Evo could be used as a super fun daily driver or weekend cruiser. Car was built for intention of show quality and craftsmanship and the modifications and reliability speak for itself. Car has never been involved in any accidents and has a perfect and clean carfax.