Evo x Mr build advice
Evo x Mr build advice
Here is a link to my stock block pretty basic build/results: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...turbo-kit.html
There isn't really anything weak in the trans on the MR. Its mostly just upgrading the clutches to handle the power. The trans it self is stout. I would 100% recommend Kozmic. basically you can send them your trans. They will install the clutches, new seals, do a valve body test and upgrade it so it makes more line pressure and after they do all that they put it in their test car and run it on the dyno to make sure it shifts right, holds pressure like it should and is 100% functional before sending it back.
If 400AWP is your goal an 18k will do the trick but I would recommend an ETS 5558 Gen 2 kit personally because like most I am sure you will want more down the road. The benefits of a turbo kit over a stock frame turbo are nice. They typically make more power per PSI and control boost better being an EWG.
- Robert
There isn't really anything weak in the trans on the MR. Its mostly just upgrading the clutches to handle the power. The trans it self is stout. I would 100% recommend Kozmic. basically you can send them your trans. They will install the clutches, new seals, do a valve body test and upgrade it so it makes more line pressure and after they do all that they put it in their test car and run it on the dyno to make sure it shifts right, holds pressure like it should and is 100% functional before sending it back.
If 400AWP is your goal an 18k will do the trick but I would recommend an ETS 5558 Gen 2 kit personally because like most I am sure you will want more down the road. The benefits of a turbo kit over a stock frame turbo are nice. They typically make more power per PSI and control boost better being an EWG.
- Robert
I don't see the SST as a burden at all, I see it has a huge advantage on the track.
Do not go with the AMS tune. Been there, retunes are way too expensive and the Cobb Accessport doesn't hold a candle to Evoscan and ECUFlash.
Here's my current power related setup for 340w/330tq, tuned by Chet Rickerman
AEM Cold air intake
ETS FMIC 3.5"
ETS Upper/Lower Intercooler piping
ETS High Flow Catback Testpipe
Greddy RS Race Single exit Cat back
Cobb EBC - This should be the first upgrade on an MR since they handle boost very differently and make it difficult to dial in
Prosport AFR and Boost gauge
Radium Catch can on the PCV side.
Also most of the suspension by Fortune Auto, Whiteline and Custco
I daily drive this car 50 miles per day, 5 days per week and have put on 40,000km (bought it at 60,000km) and it's NEVER let me down. (knocks on wood)
AWD/AYC/Dif fluid changes every 40,000 km, oil every 5000.
Do not go with the AMS tune. Been there, retunes are way too expensive and the Cobb Accessport doesn't hold a candle to Evoscan and ECUFlash.
Here's my current power related setup for 340w/330tq, tuned by Chet Rickerman
AEM Cold air intake
ETS FMIC 3.5"
ETS Upper/Lower Intercooler piping
ETS High Flow Catback Testpipe
Greddy RS Race Single exit Cat back
Cobb EBC - This should be the first upgrade on an MR since they handle boost very differently and make it difficult to dial in
Prosport AFR and Boost gauge
Radium Catch can on the PCV side.
Also most of the suspension by Fortune Auto, Whiteline and Custco
I daily drive this car 50 miles per day, 5 days per week and have put on 40,000km (bought it at 60,000km) and it's NEVER let me down. (knocks on wood)
AWD/AYC/Dif fluid changes every 40,000 km, oil every 5000.
Here is a link to my stock block pretty basic build/results: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...turbo-kit.html
There isn't really anything weak in the trans on the MR. Its mostly just upgrading the clutches to handle the power. The trans it self is stout. I would 100% recommend Kozmic. basically you can send them your trans. They will install the clutches, new seals, do a valve body test and upgrade it so it makes more line pressure and after they do all that they put it in their test car and run it on the dyno to make sure it shifts right, holds pressure like it should and is 100% functional before sending it back.
If 400AWP is your goal an 18k will do the trick but I would recommend an ETS 5558 Gen 2 kit personally because like most I am sure you will want more down the road. The benefits of a turbo kit over a stock frame turbo are nice. They typically make more power per PSI and control boost better being an EWG.
- Robert
There isn't really anything weak in the trans on the MR. Its mostly just upgrading the clutches to handle the power. The trans it self is stout. I would 100% recommend Kozmic. basically you can send them your trans. They will install the clutches, new seals, do a valve body test and upgrade it so it makes more line pressure and after they do all that they put it in their test car and run it on the dyno to make sure it shifts right, holds pressure like it should and is 100% functional before sending it back.
If 400AWP is your goal an 18k will do the trick but I would recommend an ETS 5558 Gen 2 kit personally because like most I am sure you will want more down the road. The benefits of a turbo kit over a stock frame turbo are nice. They typically make more power per PSI and control boost better being an EWG.
- Robert
I don't see the SST as a burden at all, I see it has a huge advantage on the track.
Do not go with the AMS tune. Been there, retunes are way too expensive and the Cobb Accessport doesn't hold a candle to Evoscan and ECUFlash.
Here's my current power related setup for 340w/330tq, tuned by Chet Rickerman
AEM Cold air intake
ETS FMIC 3.5"
ETS Upper/Lower Intercooler piping
ETS High Flow Catback Testpipe
Greddy RS Race Single exit Cat back
Cobb EBC - This should be the first upgrade on an MR since they handle boost very differently and make it difficult to dial in
Prosport AFR and Boost gauge
Radium Catch can on the PCV side.
Also most of the suspension by Fortune Auto, Whiteline and Custco
I daily drive this car 50 miles per day, 5 days per week and have put on 40,000km (bought it at 60,000km) and it's NEVER let me down. (knocks on wood)
AWD/AYC/Dif fluid changes every 40,000 km, oil every 5000.
Do not go with the AMS tune. Been there, retunes are way too expensive and the Cobb Accessport doesn't hold a candle to Evoscan and ECUFlash.
Here's my current power related setup for 340w/330tq, tuned by Chet Rickerman
AEM Cold air intake
ETS FMIC 3.5"
ETS Upper/Lower Intercooler piping
ETS High Flow Catback Testpipe
Greddy RS Race Single exit Cat back
Cobb EBC - This should be the first upgrade on an MR since they handle boost very differently and make it difficult to dial in
Prosport AFR and Boost gauge
Radium Catch can on the PCV side.
Also most of the suspension by Fortune Auto, Whiteline and Custco
I daily drive this car 50 miles per day, 5 days per week and have put on 40,000km (bought it at 60,000km) and it's NEVER let me down. (knocks on wood)
AWD/AYC/Dif fluid changes every 40,000 km, oil every 5000.
Awesome. So what what’s the process in which your started modding your car cause everything I look at involved a tune wanted to do intake and exhaust just as a start but needed a tune. I hate the idea of ots tunes every car is different and every driver is different. So in theory ots tunes should work but different cars and drivers have different ideas on how they intend to drive their cars and their goal. What was your first stage for your car. Tires and suspension was mine followed by brakes. Just buying better brake pads. I’ve gotten to power now and I’m completely been discouraged most of the forums and research because this sst has been a nightmare for some and a dream for others. I kinda feel like it’s a mix of bad drivers beating on this tranny and expecting it to last and whine when it breaks cause it’s expensive to fix. Take care of your car and build it the right way and it will last. I’m going to be patient on this one I’m 34 now so hopefully I’ll get to 400 hp before I’m 40.
Save your power stuff for 1 shot, 1 tuning session. Go cold air intake, high flow cat or test pipe (depending on local laws) cat back exhaust (yes it affects the tune) upper/lower pipes, Cobb or Grimmspeed Boost controller as your first "stage".
Then pick the fuel that the most accessible and tested for exactly what the tuner expects. I had to go with 91 ethanol free (Canada 93/94 is garbage). If you have access to great 93, stick too it. 93 will take the car too it's drive train torque limits anyway.
Then pick your tuner. Chet Rickerman is godlike.
After that, you'll want to go with a 10 clutch pack, valve body and shift fork 2 and 4 upgrade to handle anything over 346lbs of torque, which is what Getrage rates them for.
Then you're on to turbo, manifold, downpipe (not needed on stock turbo), intercooler...and a greatly diminished savings account
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Thanks brother
that’s almost a 4 hour drive for me I’ll have to hit them up idk about driving that far with mods installed on a basic map but idk something to consider if I choose to go that route thanks for your time and input.
Don’t worry about the SST yet. Just do your regular flushes and you will be fine. I wouldn’t even think about pulling it.
Get some quality parts like listed in this thread from ETS or somewhere. As far as a tune, I would look up Chet like mentioned already. You will be happy and learn more about tuning the car. He will explain everything and you’re car will be running great until the next round of mods you want to do.
I live in Augusta, GA. So I know what you mean about not having many options about shops down here.
Get some quality parts like listed in this thread from ETS or somewhere. As far as a tune, I would look up Chet like mentioned already. You will be happy and learn more about tuning the car. He will explain everything and you’re car will be running great until the next round of mods you want to do.
I live in Augusta, GA. So I know what you mean about not having many options about shops down here.
If you really want to get the full potential out of the car, IMO first thing would be some Ohlin R/T coilovers, I went way too long before making that upgrade.
This. I had a 500 hp clutch pack installed at Jacks, they found a bunch of other problems and ending up paying $9K for a rebuild. Been three years since and I'm still on stock power.
If you really want to get the full potential out of the car, IMO first thing would be some Ohlin R/T coilovers, I went way too long before making that upgrade.
If you really want to get the full potential out of the car, IMO first thing would be some Ohlin R/T coilovers, I went way too long before making that upgrade.
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