2 hr drive to tuner am I safe?
Thanks in advance buddy!
Removing the hoses to the wastegate will have it running whatever pressure the spring can accommodate and no more. To have it always open on an external gate you'd have to remove the spring from inside, which might have other consequences. The nice thing about an internally gated turbo is you can disconnect the actuator arm from the flapper valve and it just stays in bypass.
To bring this thread back. I’m kinda curious now if I were to make the drive to the tuner with all mods on and if I accidentally tipped into boost even 1-3 psi let’s say. What would be the procedure? Obviously I would let off gas and get back out of boost but I guess I don’t understand what can happen if I did accidentally hit boost. Pull over shut off car and try again? Or is damage likely to occur if I hit even that minor amount of boost.
I’ve also read that with the AMS intake a tune is required to change things for the SST to function properly too but I’m assuming if I’m out of boost this still wouldn’t be an issue?
I’ve also read that with the AMS intake a tune is required to change things for the SST to function properly too but I’m assuming if I’m out of boost this still wouldn’t be an issue?
To bring this thread back. I’m kinda curious now if I were to make the drive to the tuner with all mods on and if I accidentally tipped into boost even 1-3 psi let’s say. What would be the procedure? Obviously I would let off gas and get back out of boost but I guess I don’t understand what can happen if I did accidentally hit boost. Pull over shut off car and try again? Or is damage likely to occur if I hit even that minor amount of boost.
I’ve also read that with the AMS intake a tune is required to change things for the SST to function properly too but I’m assuming if I’m out of boost this still wouldn’t be an issue?
I’ve also read that with the AMS intake a tune is required to change things for the SST to function properly too but I’m assuming if I’m out of boost this still wouldn’t be an issue?
Idk what happened to that last post but this is from Kozmic. Cars with after-market intakes require an engine ECU calibration. The SST relies heavily on the MAF to calculate torque. By changing the intake, the MAF reads differently, and this can affect the SST).
so do you think the SST will be fine as well? As long is I’m not hitting boost?
so do you think the SST will be fine as well? As long is I’m not hitting boost?
It's been 2 months and you're still asking? If you're that worries just have it towed or pay an e-tuner to get you a baseline before you hit the dyno.
It should be fine, even with the SST, as long as you stay out of boost/power but nobody with any liability stake is going to tell you to drive it without the tune. Driver error is still a possibility regardless.
It should be fine, even with the SST, as long as you stay out of boost/power but nobody with any liability stake is going to tell you to drive it without the tune. Driver error is still a possibility regardless.
It's been 2 months and you're still asking? If you're that worries just have it towed or pay an e-tuner to get you a baseline before you hit the dyno.
It should be fine, even with the SST, as long as you stay out of boost/power but nobody with any liability stake is going to tell you to drive it without the tune. Driver error is still a possibility regardless.
It should be fine, even with the SST, as long as you stay out of boost/power but nobody with any liability stake is going to tell you to drive it without the tune. Driver error is still a possibility regardless.
You just need to drive it like a boomer, it's pretty easy to stay out of boost, even with the intake, the SST can handle it no prob. you aren't full throttle shifting. It's not going to self destruct. LIke I said, I drove 2 hours on a full intake and exhaust, 3-port on my SST without issue.
You just need to drive it like a boomer, it's pretty easy to stay out of boost, even with the intake, the SST can handle it no prob. you aren't full throttle shifting. It's not going to self destruct. LIke I said, I drove 2 hours on a full intake and exhaust, 3-port on my SST without issue.
Correct, I had it plugged in and everything ready to go so the tuner could drive it on the dyno and send it. The hardest part of the drive was getting up to speed for the highway, but luckily traffic wasn't bad that morning.
I think what he meant by leave it unplugged is the electrical part of the controller not the hoses. You must absolutely connect the 3 port hoses, All 3 on an MR. Do not vent it. With the solenoid unplugged, it will only hit wastegate spring pressure which is about 12psi. So less than stock. You will be fine to drive it if you take it easy.
A 3 port solenoid (AEM, Grimmspeed, Cobb, any MAC35 based valve) is naturally in the open position. Meaning air will travel through it as if it was just any normal hose. It doesn't actually "increase" boost until you apply electrical pulses to quickly shut and open the valve. Therefore by hooking it up and LEAVING IT UNPLUGGED you'll hit a max of 12ish PSI, but you will have a check engine light for the solenoid not being present. No problem, drive it lightly, oncer you get there plug it in and hand them the keys.
Problem solved.
A 3 port solenoid (AEM, Grimmspeed, Cobb, any MAC35 based valve) is naturally in the open position. Meaning air will travel through it as if it was just any normal hose. It doesn't actually "increase" boost until you apply electrical pulses to quickly shut and open the valve. Therefore by hooking it up and LEAVING IT UNPLUGGED you'll hit a max of 12ish PSI, but you will have a check engine light for the solenoid not being present. No problem, drive it lightly, oncer you get there plug it in and hand them the keys.
Problem solved.
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