Drive it like you stole it right up to about 4500, it'll race the rest to 5000rpms on you quick. And back down.

Break in those brakes gently too, no slamming hard on the softer metal, let it anneal a little over a break in period so you don't introduce brake shimmy and get a dealer rotor shave.

I've read to go ahead and give it some opp for 10-20 minutes on highway speeds during the break-in, and all the other tips about rpm up-and-down practice. You're teaching it to kick butt and those 600miles go quick.

One word of warning for GSR owners, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts are "glitchy" in the majority of these things I hear. You can cross your fingers you don't have it, break it right away and tell dealer "fix it (and good luck)", or learn how to let it synch up. 3rd for me has finally broken in at 8000+ miles; 2nd gear can still tell me to screw off on a fast start if I don't "feel" it slip into the synchro and try to shift too fast.

Oil change is religion, but I believe in baptizing my baby early in life ;-) 2000m, I understand enough about manufacturing that it might not have been in a white room its whole life and an early refresh of Mobile-1 can't hurt it. I do every 4k, beats dealer and Mobile recommendations, unless I beat on it otherwise for a special occasion.

 

From what I have read, there is no break in period. Just fire away

 

Mikebus,

Do read the owners manual, its a long read and like a mystery novel, some things you have to read a few times to "get it" and make sense of it.

500Miles breakin for engine RPM (<=5000rpm)
??? miles breakin for clutch (don't want to glaze it)
??? miles breakin for brakes (don't want newly forged metal on rotor to end up with a compressed flat spot; isn't easy to do, but it can be done with these 4piston Brembos)

(My manual is out in my car, will try to wander out there at lunch time)

 

Sorry to hi-jack. So you mean that as soon as I get the car, do an oil change for dino oil and then go through this process. Then put synthetic in and its all good... or keep driving below 5k rpm until 600 miles?

 

your really supposed to take it easy until the first oil change.. honestly i just got the MR and i have kind of been beating on it.. i have 800 miles and when it hits 1000 its going in for its first FREE oil change... than i can REALLY play with it...

 

the key thing to this is varying engine loads to prevent cross hatching of the piston block walls. do this in a gradual manner till you feel your engine gets loose. then do an oil change.

as far as brakes, brembo discs IMO can withstand daily driving braking.... (unless your pressing brakes while pressing the accelarator)

 

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

for the rest, read this link:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I did this Method on all my vehicles, Mitsu Eclipse GT Race Car with built engine, stock scion tC, and a Honda CBR600RR. Ran all of them hard from the gate, once the engine has been warmed up. Neither had a issue that was engine related.

Eclipse runs a Cobra Vortech V1 blower with 23psi of boost at 7k rpm. Not one issue running regular Castrol GTX for over 25k miles on a built motor and seasons of AutoX.

Scion tC ran for over 73k miles, not one issue with oil consumption or fuel in the oil.

I think this method works and I will continue to use it in any other vehicle I purchase. However, you have to becareful wearing in the clutch and brakes, those are different from the motor. Do not OVERHEAT the clutch and brakes within the first few hundred miles to avoid glazing.

 

If this is true, what motive does Mitsubishi has to say otherwise? They designed/built the engine after all so they must know a thing or two? Also this goes contrary to all the rest of the car manufactures as well, by the way.

 

This is my method of attack as well. I am going with some Pennzoil 5W30 conventional for the onset of the breakin, I have been accelerating WOT and decelerating quickly as well now for about 35 miles. I changed the oil at 20 miles as well. I will continue this for the next 100 miles or so... I have 35 on it now. I will be getting an oil analysis done after my first synthetic change to see if my dilution is lower than what I have been seeing for X's.

 

I'm at 1500 miles.

I didn't go over 5000rpm until after I hit 500 miles, and I varied my speed for the first 80 miles to seat the rings.

The other day I hit the rev limiter and my car got quieter but started popping more when I let off/shift.

Could anything be wrong? I doubt it could but I don't know how strong the valves are on this car. I forgot it didn't redline at 8k like my Acura haha...so I hit the 7500 mark.

 

So here's the real question. . . When is it too early to start modding and tuning the car?

 

too early to mod?

if you followed the guide i posted your pretty safe after 1k miles or so, but honestly you can mod right from the get go, but its better to concentrate on seating the rings first.

 

Drive it like you would normally, avoid going over 5k rpm for the first 600 miles. Put the engine under load, ex (Put it in 5th while going 20 mph and hit full throttle).

Things to keep in mind:
- Make sure your engine is fully warmed before putting it under load.
- Avoid short trips.