Quick Install: Nisei 1PC UICP with Front Bumper on
Just some more tips for readers:
1) Make sure you have a 12mm socket that's deep enough to tighten the T-clamps. I had to boost leak my way to Kragen to get a deeper socket because the stud was already hitting the my ratchet
2) Make sure the clamps are tight. Cannot emphasize this enough. If you think it's not tight enough, then it's not. If you think it might be too tight, then you're almost there. Factory clamps are creased when you pull them off so that should give you an idea of how tight it has to be.
3) watch out for razor-sharp heat shield. I did not cut myself, but many people have.
1) Make sure you have a 12mm socket that's deep enough to tighten the T-clamps. I had to boost leak my way to Kragen to get a deeper socket because the stud was already hitting the my ratchet
2) Make sure the clamps are tight. Cannot emphasize this enough. If you think it's not tight enough, then it's not. If you think it might be too tight, then you're almost there. Factory clamps are creased when you pull them off so that should give you an idea of how tight it has to be.
3) watch out for razor-sharp heat shield. I did not cut myself, but many people have.
Contact Jed at Maxum Technologies. They tend to reply to their PM at random times. One week I couldn't get a hold of him, and another week he would reply within hours. I ordered my pipe on Sunday and I got it on Tuesday, so they're obviously doing their job.
It looks like you UIP is way to far to the right, too close to the airbox. Seems like it should be about an inch closer to the valve cover-cover. It looks really good anyway. I got one question with a one piece UIP won't it or the mounting become damaged over time from the engine torquing and rocking back and forth under acceleration? Isn't this why the factory one is made to flex? Just wondering, I could be way off base.....
^this was also a concern of mine hence i ordered the type A.
excalibur, if you look at the couplers there is a "buldge" in the middle of every coupler, this is meant for the "flexes" that can and will occur while driving the car.
excalibur, if you look at the couplers there is a "buldge" in the middle of every coupler, this is meant for the "flexes" that can and will occur while driving the car.
You mean the oem ones? So go with them? Has anyone heard of issues with the one piece?
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
The one piece pipe is fine, it is actually better to me after you think about it, the couplers that Nisei supplies are the ones you want to use they allow for flex. Plus a one piece pipe has less places for boost leaks, which you will have at first unless you tighten the **** out of the clamps. Use the stuff that comes with the pipe, you only reuse the rubber mounts, which is also another flex point and on mine I also put a small piece of rubber between the pipe and the front radiator support is what I would call it. The pipe rubs at that point and I didn't want to have to hammer that support in, so a small piece of rubber works great.
Just some more tips for readers:
1) Make sure you have a 12mm socket that's deep enough to tighten the T-clamps. I had to boost leak my way to Kragen to get a deeper socket because the stud was already hitting the my ratchet
2) Make sure the clamps are tight. Cannot emphasize this enough. If you think it's not tight enough, then it's not. If you think it might be too tight, then you're almost there. Factory clamps are creased when you pull them off so that should give you an idea of how tight it has to be.
3) watch out for razor-sharp heat shield. I did not cut myself, but many people have.
1) Make sure you have a 12mm socket that's deep enough to tighten the T-clamps. I had to boost leak my way to Kragen to get a deeper socket because the stud was already hitting the my ratchet
2) Make sure the clamps are tight. Cannot emphasize this enough. If you think it's not tight enough, then it's not. If you think it might be too tight, then you're almost there. Factory clamps are creased when you pull them off so that should give you an idea of how tight it has to be.
3) watch out for razor-sharp heat shield. I did not cut myself, but many people have.
Alright. I will be doing this today.
Just got done. It was an ultra-easy mod. Only hard part was tightening down the lower clamp and when I took the oem one off, the clamp fell behind the ic. I got it with a magnet and knocked it out. Decent little gain.
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: DFW,TX
Ok, sorry for the newbie question here, but i just did an uicp swap and I now hear like a "hissing" sound when I get on it hard, like the way the turbo sounds when spooling but quieter, not sure if this makes sense. Is this what you guys call boost leak? Any help would be greatly appreciated.