Link to my original thread / HOW TO: on C3G (http://www.club3g.com/forum/performa...utch-line.html)

Are you experiencing a soft clutch pedal feel? Want more performance? Want a great SS look in the engine bay?

THIS IS THE THREAD FOR YOU!!!

Tools:
10mm Flare Open Wrench (recommended)
or
10mm Open Wrench (may round the nut if not careful)
Vice Grips
Hammer
Flare Wrench AN6 Size (regular open wrenches will work also)
Flare Wrench AN3 Size (regular open wrenches will work also)
Hand Pump Bleeder (recommended)

Persons:
2 people needed (only for bleeding process)

Parts: (all parts can be ordered from www.summitracing.com)

EAR-63010112ERL
Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Brake Lines
Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, Assembled, Straight -3 AN Female to Straight -3 AN Female, 12 in. Long
***10"-12" Line will work just fine, I used a 12" line to be sure its long enough, do not make sharp bend with SS lines!***
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

2x EAR-989545ERL
Earl's Performance Brake Adapters
Fitting, Brake, Steel, Zinc Plated, Male -3 AN to Female 10mm x 1.0 Thread, Each
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Lubricants:
DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid ( I used ATE SUPER BLUE)
PB Blaster

Total Cost of MOD:
Line: $9.88
Adapters: $5.69 x2
Total: $21.26

Steps:

1) Loosen the nut at the slave cylinder with a 10 flare wrench or open wrench, leave it open and bleed the lines. Use a hose and water bottle to pump the fluid into. Have someone pump the pedal to get all of the clutch fluid out of the lines.

2) Put a towel or somethign under the location of the stock brake lines, since brake fluid is corrosive. Spray with PB Blaster, let it sit for 5-10 minutes)Remove the two retainer clips from both locations, look the same as brake line ones. Then get a 10mm flare wrench on the nut, and then get another AN6 sized wrench on the stock hose. Now turn the nut to the left to loosen it, you have to be gentle yet forceful, as not to round the nut. If you can't get it off with the wrench, try the vice grips, those work well.

3) Install the adapters for metric to AN3. Tighten then up to the nut with a AN6 wrench and 10mm flare wrench on the nut. For pics of adapter look at the step above.

4) Once the adapters are install. Install the swivel Earl's SS line. Be sure your line is swivel, makes life easier. AN6 wrench on the adapter and the a AN3 wrench on the line tighten.

5) My line is a little long, but I rather not have kinks or rather have it too short a 10" line would probably work.

6) Fill the fluid container with brake fluid, make sure the slave cylinder bleeder is tightened. Have some one pump the clutch, then have them hold in the pedal, you loosen the bleeder at the slave and let the air and fluid out. Expect this to take 15 minutes, its a pain. Do it until there is no more air in the line. If you can get the master cylinder to suck in the fluid from the container, unhook the container and tilt it toward the master cylinder to get the fluid in there.

7) Might be a good time to remove the restrictor pill.
http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...907d730a8227bf

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I WILL BE TRYING THIS OUT THIS WEEKEND. IF IT WILL NOT WORK I WILL POST THE RESULTS!!!

 

THIS MODIFICATION WILL NOT WORK, MITSUBISHI DECIDED TO USE SOME *** BACKWARDS FITTINGS FOR THE SOFT LINE.

WAIT FOR THE AMS FULL LENGTH CLUTCH LINE REPLACEMENT!!!