Ultimate Racing UICP 2 piece install
Ultimate Racing UICP 2 piece install
Well, it was 3:30 am and snowing as you can see... I wasn't tired and got the pipe in a few days ago and decided to put it on.... here's how it goes...
The snow..
The heater that kept me semi warm while doing this little project..
we lift the hood and there are the plastic clips that hold the large plastic piece are removed by pulling up on the tip of them, when they pop out pull them the rest of the way out, careful not to break them.

these unscrew and then the piece they were screwed into pops out... be gentle.
All of the clamps are 10mm... the bolts holding the UICP in place are 12mm.



it's not super easy to get to, but it can be done with patience... and small hands
loosening the clamps
with the 12 mm bolts out, pull up a little to get the pipe loose... I took out the whole pipe in 1 piece pretty much, but you may choose to do it in pieces. Either is fine.

the new pieces... sturdy feeling and just overall feel like quality.

this pic shows just how tight these clamps are put on from the factory, so the easiest way to get it off of the innercooler is to loosen the bolts as much as possible and remove them, so the rubber pipe crap comes off easier.. it's still a bit of a chore though, so expect to pull pretty hard, and make sure you move around a bit to help you out.

loosening the clamp at the turbo
whole part removed
first I decided to do the part near the turbo... the silicone slips over the metal much easier than the originals came off, the new size is also 9/32'... slide the small end over the outlet and tighten both new clamps, ensure they are nice and tight.

in place

other end ready to be attached to the pipe from the IC.
before I found my 1/4 ratchet I used this little screw driver to tighten down the clamp at the IC without the pipe first.

pipe now set into place... don't tighten it yet just to make sure you can join the 2 pipes together without a problem...

as you can see... there is plenty of pipe to join them up

join it up in the middle, tighten it down and then tighten the other clamp from the IC...

check all your connections, start the car and listen for any hissing or any other signs of boost leaks... if everything looks and sounds good... you're all ready to go! Good luck, hope this helped someone out!
The snow..

The heater that kept me semi warm while doing this little project..

we lift the hood and there are the plastic clips that hold the large plastic piece are removed by pulling up on the tip of them, when they pop out pull them the rest of the way out, careful not to break them.

these unscrew and then the piece they were screwed into pops out... be gentle.
All of the clamps are 10mm... the bolts holding the UICP in place are 12mm.



it's not super easy to get to, but it can be done with patience... and small hands

loosening the clamps

with the 12 mm bolts out, pull up a little to get the pipe loose... I took out the whole pipe in 1 piece pretty much, but you may choose to do it in pieces. Either is fine.

the new pieces... sturdy feeling and just overall feel like quality.

this pic shows just how tight these clamps are put on from the factory, so the easiest way to get it off of the innercooler is to loosen the bolts as much as possible and remove them, so the rubber pipe crap comes off easier.. it's still a bit of a chore though, so expect to pull pretty hard, and make sure you move around a bit to help you out.

loosening the clamp at the turbo

whole part removed

first I decided to do the part near the turbo... the silicone slips over the metal much easier than the originals came off, the new size is also 9/32'... slide the small end over the outlet and tighten both new clamps, ensure they are nice and tight.

in place


other end ready to be attached to the pipe from the IC.
before I found my 1/4 ratchet I used this little screw driver to tighten down the clamp at the IC without the pipe first.

pipe now set into place... don't tighten it yet just to make sure you can join the 2 pipes together without a problem...

as you can see... there is plenty of pipe to join them up

join it up in the middle, tighten it down and then tighten the other clamp from the IC...

check all your connections, start the car and listen for any hissing or any other signs of boost leaks... if everything looks and sounds good... you're all ready to go! Good luck, hope this helped someone out!
Last edited by Methodical4u; Dec 19, 2009 at 03:25 AM.
I just did an intake and UICP install yesterday on my X. I didn't heat up the garage and it was about 30 degrees out. LOL, **** those factory couplings are hard to get apart. My hands and arms are so tore up. I went out there thinking it was going to be an easy job by just popping off the old tubes and pop on the new ones.
I found that coupling on top of the intercooler was a little easier to do if you unbolt the horn, and take off those bolts holding the front bumper on. It gives you a little more room to fit your hands down in there.
I found that coupling on top of the intercooler was a little easier to do if you unbolt the horn, and take off those bolts holding the front bumper on. It gives you a little more room to fit your hands down in there.
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People use hairgel or hairspray to prevent leaking. You coat it with hairgel or spray, slide pipes on and tighten clamps and let it dry up. T-bolt clamps are definitely a must to prevent leaks.
That being said, only real way to tell if you have leaks is a boost leak tester!
Methodical - We meet again
. Still waiting for my TXS catback after I got Evo VIII one sent to me
You are like me - no snow or salt around my Ebo...
Does the cover fit back on with the pipe? Also you gonna get the UR UICP and does it work with stock airbox?
That being said, only real way to tell if you have leaks is a boost leak tester!
Methodical - We meet again
. Still waiting for my TXS catback after I got Evo VIII one sent to me
You are like me - no snow or salt around my Ebo...Does the cover fit back on with the pipe? Also you gonna get the UR UICP and does it work with stock airbox?
People use hairgel or hairspray to prevent leaking. You coat it with hairgel or spray, slide pipes on and tighten clamps and let it dry up. T-bolt clamps are definitely a must to prevent leaks.
That being said, only real way to tell if you have leaks is a boost leak tester!
Methodical - We meet again
. Still waiting for my TXS catback after I got Evo VIII one sent to me
You are like me - no snow or salt around my Ebo...
Does the cover fit back on with the pipe? Also you gonna get the UR UICP and does it work with stock airbox?
That being said, only real way to tell if you have leaks is a boost leak tester!
Methodical - We meet again
. Still waiting for my TXS catback after I got Evo VIII one sent to me
You are like me - no snow or salt around my Ebo...Does the cover fit back on with the pipe? Also you gonna get the UR UICP and does it work with stock airbox?
I'm not quite sure what you mean about it working with the stock air box? I have a green filter drop in in the car now.
very easy to do with your guide! thanks
this is for me sometime in the future lol
would you know if X turbo parts bolt-on directly on lancer 09?
can i reuse pipings, turbo and manifold?
this is for me sometime in the future lol
would you know if X turbo parts bolt-on directly on lancer 09?
can i reuse pipings, turbo and manifold?
Last edited by henryDgreat; Jan 22, 2010 at 01:41 AM.


