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Stock o2 housing removal, downpipe install. Don't be skurrred!

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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:01 AM
  #16  
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Ya I didn't need to use a hammer either, just a decent amount of PB Blaster
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 08:23 AM
  #17  
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Nice instructions I just got my Cobb down pipe and hi flow cat installed at a local exhaust shop... Long story short the threads on my o2 sensor were stripped and it was a two install ...smh looking at this I could've did it my self and saved the headache
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:45 AM
  #18  
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Ehh, maybe not. Both of my o2 sensors seized up as well in the stock exhaust. Thankfully I am now catless so I only need to replace one of the o2 sensors...can't believe how much the OEM ones cost (.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #19  
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Great write up!
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:15 PM
  #20  
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Any tips on removing the heatshield off he o2 housing? What a PITA!
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dkohn1337
Any tips on removing the heatshield off he o2 housing? What a PITA!
This was the hardest part for me and took the longest to get off. Held me up for 12+ hours.

I couldn't get the bolts to move, so I moved the heatshield.

I bent the shield back and forth until the bits that were being held down by the 02 bolts deformed enough to become a BIGGER HOLE.
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 03:31 AM
  #22  
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The heatshield definitely takes some maneuvering. I did use swivel sockets as well as a lift (think I accessed one or two from below). The good news is once you get the heatshield off you can throw it away because you don't use it with the ets downpipe. Just use your hands not your eyes to find those bolts and guide the sockets onto the bolts. It takes some time and patience but you'll get it .
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 03:45 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dkohn1337
Any tips on removing the heatshield off he o2 housing? What a PITA!
Just hit it with pb blaster.

If I remember correctly it may be easier to access some underneath.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 04:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by badassmotha4000
So I tackled this project about two weeks ago and the hardest part, the nut on the opposite side of the o2 housing, can become the one of if not the easiest part. The only thing really required is to remove the wastegate actuator arm. That little guy sits directly above the nut so remove it and you'll have plenty of room to torque on with a close-ended wrench. It kind of looks like the gentleman above actually did this, but did not describe it in the directions because you can see a random wrench sticking out of the area when he's talking about installing the ets downpipe after the removal. Whatever works...just trying to save someone else a lot of time and pain...and yes you will need a tune after this job is done. It isn't detrimental to the engine if you don't but if you want to take advantage of that beautiful piece of metal you just spent hours installing then yes, splurge the extra money on a tune, you won't regret it .

*Correction: He did not remove the actuator arm. I couldn't see the picture when I was posting this. You can however see how the actuator arm would get in the way of someone trying to get some leverage on that damn nut. Best of luck .

Agreed, the most difficult nut can be easily accessed by removing the wastegate actuator arm. With the arm removed, you'll have a good bit of space and a much better angle to apply torque. Do what works tho.

My overall advice is to be patient with the process, don't try to break any downpipe installation speed records. If any bolt is seized, apply lots of PB blaster and walk away. Time and a properly applied hammer will do the trick... and def wear mechanics gloves, my hands got beat.

Last edited by dpspc11; Feb 11, 2014 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #25  
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This might sound stupid to some but will this downpipe work with the stock catback? Im trying to stay quiet until WOT. Also does this DP throw any codes? Sorry i just got my '14 2 days ago
Thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 04:46 AM
  #26  
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This setup uses new bolts and parts, and I don't think they suggest using the stock cat back. You could always go with the ETS V2 QUIET catbacl setup. It looks good and doesn't make much noise at all...if your into that kind of thing . Also it may throw a code if you remove any of the o2 sensors, but if you keep them then no, it will not throw a code, unless you did something wrong . Have fun.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 07:56 AM
  #27  
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I'm sure it will work just fine.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #28  
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Yea im eventually going for the v2 quiet but for now a stock catback if it works..
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 07:13 PM
  #29  
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Tag to do myself next week
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 08:16 AM
  #30  
EastWickEvo's Avatar
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Hello guys, so this is my removal story..........I got my ETS recirculated down pipe and I am having issues with that dammm nut. My question is do i have to remove the WGA. If so what tools are required for this task.
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