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Quad projector headlights in the making

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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #46  
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From: kunkletown/Easton, pa
Originally Posted by iEvoVII
^^ Halos are held in by thin wire. Tiny holes are drilled into the shrouds with the halos secured to them.
I don't trust glue over time
That sounds like a good idea , although there are some very good epoxys out there. Have you ever done VIII headlights, I have a set apart now and am thinking about trying it. I'm curious if you know the sizes.
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 04:46 AM
  #47  
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^^ have done 2 CT9A sets. Currently doing a 3rd. Take 3 detailed pix of the chrome internal housing showing close ups of the:
* Foglight housing (if headlights are HID spec)
* high beam housing
* low beam housing

PM the pix preferably..

ill point out what sizes you need...
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 05:05 AM
  #48  
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From: kunkletown/Easton, pa
Originally Posted by iEvoVII
^^ have done 2 CT9A sets. Currently doing a 3rd. Take 3 detailed pix of the chrome internal housing showing close ups of the:
* Foglight housing (if headlights are HID spec)
* high beam housing
* low beam housing

PM the pix preferably..

ill point out what sizes you need...

They are HID's but I dont have any pics at the moment. I placed an order with Retro-solutions last night for 2 - 90mm OD and 1 105mm OD CCFL ring. I guess Ill find out if they are the right size. Seemed to measure out correctly.
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #49  
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what look are you after:
* raw CCFL or
* CCFL with acrylic casing?

I'm not a fan of CCFL halos with the acrylic casing. It makes it look thick and really obvious.
The following dimensions are for -
Raw CCFL rings:
* Foglight = 70mm or 75mm depending where you install it
* High beam = 100mm or 105mm depending as well
* Low beam = 80mm (only option)
ALL "Outer" Dimensions
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #50  
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im guessing the headlight level adjuster for our X's will be non functional right ? is there an alternative to adjust the headlight ? do you have any pictures of the cut off line for the FX-R's ?
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:07 PM
  #51  
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^^ You guessed wrong..
I have no need to touch the headlight leveller. It still remains functional.

headlights can be adusted in 2 ways:
* Up / Down adjustment ONLY - Incabin adjustment knob

* Up / Down + Left / Right adjustment - back of the headlight using a:
- screw driver or
- 10mm spanner

Yes, I will be taking pix of the FX-R and OEM Hella outputs
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #52  
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awesome writeup bro. i love the look of those headlights
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:58 PM
  #53  
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Cheers...
you'll really love when I start painting them black (some time tonight)
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #54  
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4th Update:

The last of the shields complete
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CCFL halo sprayed with VHT nightshade vs CCFL halo untouched. You can see areas of under spray but thats ok, the shrouds will fill in those areas so you wont see it.
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VHT nightshades on CCFL halos gives an ABSOLUTE crap result:
* It gives a blotchy / patchy effect when lit up
* It reduces the brightness when you continually apply more layers to make it even. Up close you can see the irregularity in the lighting, further back its hard to tell.
The reason for painting the halos is because I will be painting the whole housing black and I want the halos to blend in.
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The start of painting
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The 2nd E46 shroud painted black. I have a little trick up my sleeve with all 4 shrouds. I wont post pix till the end... Ive done 2 already and DAMN it looks fricken hottt
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Entire LHS painted black and ready for assembly. I decided to do away with the nightshades and paint the CCFL halos in black primer, hoping for a better result. I forgot to take close ups of the painted halos
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CCFL halos with a thin coat of black primer. I found it easier to achieve a more even finish but still far from perfect. The effect up close is very speckledy and brighter than using nightshades.
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5th Update:


Unpainted CCFL halo (left) vs Lightly primed CCFL halo (right):
The pix are not that obvious but the unpainted halo is noticably more brighter than the lightly coated halo. The human eye can definately see the difference.
I painted each individual halo on different days so each coat of black primer ended up being inconsistant with the other. When all lit up at once, some were noticably brighter than others. I decided to scrape off all the primer and start again, this time painting all 4 in one go.
Notice the unpainted halo is more "glarey" due to brightness
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Masking the "XENON" logo:
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Accouple of days later... All 4 halos are lightly primed in one spray painting session
The brightness from all 4 halos is alot more consistant this time:
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6th update:


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The internals are ready to be shipped to the US. You may notice the use of cable ties. This is to stop the painted housings from moving around and potentially scratching the paint. The plastic container will then be bubble wrapped then placed into a larger card board box.
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Last edited by iEvoVII; Oct 13, 2010 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 04:25 PM
  #55  
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nice
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 04:32 PM
  #56  
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wow nice job!
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #57  
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Maybe it's better off not painting the Halos (I personally like the idea of bright-*** halos). Will the unlit white Halos clash against the newly painted black housings?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:36 AM
  #58  
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^^

I didnt take any mock up pix with black housing and white halos. It will definately clash.

Pix will never do anything justice. Ill admit the halos with a coat of primer are not as bright vs unpainted halos but thats only if you compare them side by side. I bet if you had a lightly coated halo lit up by itself, you'd agree that it was bright & unmodifed. Untill you turn it off and see that it was black in color.... Trust me, theyre still bright.
Human eye vs a Picture.... Human eyes wins

And thats what I think I have acheived here
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 03:09 AM
  #59  
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5th update: Post #54
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 03:12 AM
  #60  
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That halo is like the sickest accent ever.... looks so legit.. great job man.
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