SavageGSR

So did all the steps this weekend and heres my .02 cents

1) 16 oz. Chemical Guys Citrus Wash -

Liked it a lot, no fuss, no suds, just straight up cleaning the paint...little bit went a long way in 5 gallons of water. vairly aggressive, so obviously will only be using when i'm going through all these steps again.


2) Iron remover (Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml. w/Sprayer)

INMHO - waste of money after the chemical guys wash... perhaps this would be usefully during my shampoo washes but followed the directions, waited 5 minutes after the wash and no red / purple at all, not even a glimpse, figure it didn't have any iron to remove. so i'd skip this if you were interested in the chemical guys wash.

3) Bug and tar remover (didn't end up using it with this wash)

4) More aggressive clay bar Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay Aggressive

Liked it, had no issues with it creating more problems than it was removing...let a nice element free paint surface to polish. again wouldn't use it every wash, more just because of the time it takes to do, and it advertises that its a once a year clay bar, i'll be doing it more like 6 months but whatever.

5) Polish Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite Polish

Really like this, easy on easy off, simple. as it's advertised it has no abrasive in the mix, think next time i'll try a mild abrasive, then follow it with this "Prime lite" was only starting off as mild as possible and i'll step it up a bit next time. Was a great polish to prep for wax, but could of done with a little bit more kick to bring out the swirls a bit more.

6) Trim clean / restorer (Didn't end up needing, tapped off the trim parts before waxing and the chemical guys wash seems, for now at least, removed the old wax from previous wax jobs.)
7) Tire Side wall shine (Please recommend)

IN CONCLUSION
no need for the IRON X, the TAR and GLU remover (unless your pealing off badges), or the TRIM CLEANER (be smarter with wax)
all the products i did used i was very happy with, but as i stated i'll still be trying some of the others recommended as i think i could still improve the next time i wax the car with a bit more in the polish step.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

This clay was recommend to you for removing an unknown substance that was stuck to your paint. You weren't supposed to clay the entire car with it. Its drawbacks were explained to you, as well:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-cutting.html

As for the rest, I posted a link to Autopia's tutorial list earlier in the thread. Though everyone thinks they know how to wash/polish/wax a car, the process isn't necessarily intuitive, nor is the jargon that identifies the products and their usage. Honestly, you need to educate yourself and apply the knowledge in a more streamlined manner before writing reviews.

dave12285

iTrader: (2)

I agree with reading up on Autopia and Autogeek. I've watched as many videos and read as many articles as i could on Autogeek and learned a significant amount about the car washing and overall detailing process. As stated earlier, Autogeek carries great products all around. You can also email them what you're looking for and they'll give you as many recommendations as you'd like. Thanks for the review on the products, BTW.

SavageGSR

Honestly did the best i could, just my input, never claimed to be an expert. As far as educating goes i read up on several of the articles and went to all the sites ya posted. You wrote this "I hate to suggest the use of aggressive clay without seeing the paint. OTOH, in some ways it's a better option that buying random products and hoping for success. You want to use ClayMagic Red, Meguiars Red, or 3M. This clay will slightly haze the paint, so you want to polish afterward, but it will remove pretty much anything." from that i went on to make a decision, I've appreciated all your feedback and realize you're knowledgeable, but you have an uncanny sense of replying too late, or being slightly ambiguous. No big deal, next time i'll have a glaze and a little better polish in the next couple of weeks and won't be claying the car. I don't believe what i did has affected the car negatively, it probably isn't showroom finish, like i said definitely some swirl marks, but nothing drastic. don't plan on using the clay bar again for the entire car, but i believe the previous own probably parked under a tree or some non-sense so its a detail job in process. In my way of thinking i at least got a layer of wax down and now the car is at least protected for the next couple of weeks till i go back in to re-polish and glaze the car (and i won't use the clay bar again without needing to)

I appreciate the help, no need chastise me though. here to learn just like anyone else.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

I highlighted an example illustrating a basic lack of understanding. You didn't polish the paint; you used a light chemical cleaner to remove some surface oxidation.

Please understand that what I'm telling you is not an opinion; it's a fact. This clay will and does haze the paint. Hell, this product will remove overspray (!). Different grades of clay exist for a reason. From where I sit you have 2 choices: You can either do what you're doing with the X's relatively thin paint, or you can educate yourself and act accordingly. Good luck.

SavageGSR

If ya got help to offer, offer it, if you're just gonna pick and pull me apart, i'll pass. I'm trying to learn it, teach me. I understand the "polish" i used is the minimalist and is more of a chemical cleaner / final step, i realized this mistake and hence saying that i'd go back with a better polish, i bought that polish with the idea that i'd start with the least aggressive and work my way down.

SRTRaceR04

iTrader: (24)

Not sure how you can polish without any abrasives. The key to polishing something involves abrasives of some sort.

Also, possibly I am misreading, but did you clay bar your car and not put down any wax/sealant after? If so, I would correct this. I would also be careful when you do get around to actually polishing the paint as Mitsubishi paint is pretty thin.

SavageGSR

appreciate the paint is thin, which is why i started with a minimimalist chemical clean "polish" will be going back next time with a mild polish.

i used the hybrid wax by dodo juice, its a wax and sealant in one - would recommend its use, but as we're all reading, i'm obviously not one to put to much faith in, but still i can say i like it.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

I did give you help. The next step is up to you; I can't do the reading for you. If you have followup questions, I'll be happy to help.

READ!! Seriously. You have a car with unusually thin paint and you're planning to use an abrasive. I can't teach you how to do this in a span of paragraph on a forum. I link'd guides, tutorials, videos by literally the best in the business. Go through them. This takes days, if not weeks.

SavageGSR

K, so than if ya got the time and would like to help, what would be the best recommendation for when i go back. and wash and wax again.

in my mind i was going to do it all over again without the clay bar step and step up to a mild polish and use a glaze before waxing again.

I realize this is a more complicated subject than just a forum or a paragraph, but i'd like to say i'm not an idiot, i have read the articles you linked me too, spent several days reading these things, you know where i'm going, what i've come from. correct me, tell me products whatever ya like.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

I'd start with basic washing/drying tutorials. Product-wise, I'd suggest something other than CG's CWG. I have and I use it on occasion, but it's somewhat of an application-specific product. Duragloss 901, Poorboys and Optimum shampoos, Meguiars Gold Class are all very good.

1. Polishing requires force. That force can come from a machine or from your body, but it has to exist in order for polishing to take place. Using a dual-action buffer like a Porter Cable or a Griots and a polish with non-diminishing abrasives like Meguiars 205 is perhaps the easiest and safest way to go for someone starting out. This being said, don't even try doing this until you know more about the process. Really.

2. Glaze. What, exactly, is a glaze? It can be a gloss enhancer, it can be a polish, it can be a filler.... Depending on the actual product type, it can either strengthen the finish and add gloss, or it can prevent your wax/sealant of choice from bonging to the paint (to be accurate, a pure-ish wax kinda lies on top of the paint). I know I'm beating a dead horse; if you don't take some time to educate yourself, you won't know what you're using to begin with.

Like I said before, read the tutorials, what the videos. Try to get some sense of understanding, then come back and we can discuss the specifics when we both speak the same language.

SavageGSR

got it thanks for the input... last question, in adding time, is this a problem? obviously need sometime to read up more on products / process. During this time leaving the car as it sits can't be harmful (or at least i can't see it being bad) correct me if i'm wrong, do i need to be concerned about how soon i rectify the problem? (i'm talking a couple weeks not months)

never a dead horse, just need herding.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

You mentioned a hybrid DJ product. Do you mean Supernatural? If so, then your paint should be well protected for at least a month.

SavageGSR

yes that is the product. k i'll read up and get back to you. thanks again.

SpardaVR4

iTrader: (1)

I just ordered a few items from auto geek.

Menzerna's Power Lock and Collinite #845 for me. Claying the car with Pinnacle ultra fine clay bar then adding the paint sealant and topping with the wax.

I also got a few other items (P21S shampoo, total auto wash, wheel cleaner, Wolfgang Trim Sealant, Griots glass polish and Detailer's cleanse all exterior cleaner).

Do your research on autogeek, you will learn a lot and will find out what product works best for your car. For example, I learned that Collinite #845 looks amazing on white and lasts a long time!