Here's a How-To I found buried in the 1-9 section: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...uds-evo-x.html

And does anyone if it's possible to use an electric impact wrench to get the job done? I have air tools but don't have my compressor at my apartment and an electric impact would simplify things a lot.

 

Sure, just set the torque down. Can I send you my Christmas list also?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=Y&origin=prod

I would love one of these! I've been a good boy this year, Santa. Really!

 

Seriously though. If you need torque, you probably don't have the backs of them cleaned off well enough, rough them up and even scrape if for some reason they're dirty and crusty. They will pull through on a few attempts with even a regular sized 1/2 drive ratchet. Back-and-forth, tighten, loosen; keep the washers on to prevent any deformation by the nut. You shouldn't need power tools -- after all, they're probably at blame in the first place.

 

I haven't attempted the install yet, but I asked about air tools because that how-to said they were necessary. I'll be really excited if I can get away with using only hand tools. And I'm installing extended studs for 15mm spacers I've got, not because I sheared one off.

And I'll pass the word along to Santa.

 

It's fairly easy like everyone says, not need to use power tools unless you're in a hurry. Took me 'bout an hr. with hand tools for the front studs. Pound out with hammer. I bought some metric nuts and washers from the hardware store, tighten them flush to the hub then mount your wheels.

 

Serious warning. I bought one of these a couple years ago and was EXTREMELY disappointed when both NiCad batteries died a very early death. I suspect the reason was the provided charger was a dumb charger and probably needed to be used very carefully. I just left the spare battery on it.

HOWEVER, I found out they made a replacement Lithium Ion battery for the unit sold with a smart charger. Haven't had a problem since. It's a great tool. The picture in your link does not show the lithium battery, and unless I missed it, it's not mentioned. So check this stuff out before you buy this toy. If you can't buy it with the lithium battery, try to buy it without a battery and get the battery and charger separate.

 

I found the Dorman readily available too at the local parts store. I wonder how they'll do, would have preferred heat tempered, but my bet is that the Dormans are identical to the marginal but functional OEM parts. (Fingers crossed)

 

Hand tools it is then. Did you replace all ten front studs in an hour?

 

hey bro this project is a real easy one i put my arp extended studs in for the the front in less then and hour for both sides , its easy just take off your brake caliper hangit with a coat hanger or better yet bungee cord like it did and then use rubber mallet smack the rotor face to itll come loose , then take rotor off .. now youll have great access to the studs and hub, now just take a nice 2 to 5 pound hammer and just give the oem stud a nice smack one by one they will pop out the back of the hub. After you have the all out slide thru the new longer or oem stud in and use a spacer of bunch of washers and a use your oem or aftermarket lug nut and zip it until the back end of the stud is flush with the hub face , repeat for the rest and youll be set . I wrote alot but let me tell you its easier then pouring milk in your cereal . PM or IM if you need some pointers or you can call , ill PM you my number if i get a PM from you , good luck
remember its all nuts and bolts brother...

 

i just reread my post and sorry for grammar errors its excatly 5:40 am in st charles heheh lol

 

^ LOL, good point, grammar skills tend to degrade without proper sleep and rest.

I grabbed an extra open nut from O'Reillys for $1.29. Heck, I was already into it for a real nut since I'm tossing the one with the broken 1/2 stud in it, might as well ask for a second one. All in, with tax, just at $6 for stud, OEM nut and open nut.

I love these Evos for doing work myself. Someone in their engineering group loves us. I think they recruit from different colleges than Detroit does.

 

Updated: The studs really aren't any harder on the rears than I expected. The rear brake shoes are a little bit in the way, but with the tires both raised up, there's more than one place you can feed the new studs in and get started to pull them in.

What I found that deserves a post is how degraded my other studs were upon R&R of the first broken stud. During tightening up of the wheel lug nuts, I broke another stud. Given my previously spotless record at this, I figured out that these were either inferior grade steel compared to all 30+ years of vehicles I've ever ever worked on. OR, more probable, that they somehow weakened. Given a dozen or more hard hours on the road course around here, they definitely have gotten quite hot, and at one event, over torqued.

WHOOPS. Over torquing may not lead to immediate failure, but mine apparently did not recover nicely when cooled back down. The technical term is "annealing"; subsequent surface weakness occurred with oxidation. Now I know what I never knew before. Racers need to replace these routinely after abusing them, just for safety. For the $ and time required, its silly for me not to.