CL Brakes RC6's are 100-1800 High Torque Pads

 

Forgot to update this version from the 1-9 area. Updated first post.

 

So I tried putting EVO VIII ducts on an EVO X. The mounting bolts are larger diameter on the EVO X, and the spacing a little different. BUT - drilling the mounting holes out larger made them work. So although not perfect - they seem to work!
So this is an option for the EVO X guys to look at.

Some photos of the test fitting.

 

I was wondering if someone could answer a few questions. I have an Evo X MR and will likely have to change the brakes soon. What options (companies) do I have for the front two-piece rotors? Does just the rotor piece get replaced? I am unfamiliar with this type of design. Also, I'm assuming I can use a standard one piece rotor in the back?

I don't track the car and use mainly for DD and spirited driving. Any suggestions for rotor/pad combo that is of good quality and cost effective?

 

DBA makes a direct replacement rotor ring that keeps the OE hat. You just need new bolts and self-locking nuts.

Chris

 

Hi, i am looking into upgrading my brake lines to SS line for track, DD and spirited driving. I would like to know if drving in freezing temp. would be an issue since it is also my DD in the winter. Does anyone have it on their car as DD and live in extreme cold winter area? Thx

 

No issues with high-quality SS lines. The crappier ones have issues no matter what the temperature is!

Chris

 

Thx!

I looked around some vendors' website and only two companies advertised their product as DOT approved and that's Harmon Motive and WORKS.. I was wondering if other products such as AMS, goodridge and techna-fit are just as good and meet all safety standards?

 

If my AMS brand blows apart, not only am I damaged, but they'd be out of business FAST -- they live (or die) on their reputation with the tuner aftermarket performance crowd. They fit great, they're covered with a sheath.

In case you didn't get this reading, braided lines will wear out, just different than rubber. The braiding allows tiny bits of dirt/crap to actually rub and wear the rubber that the braiding holds tight. The plastic sheathing design is to minimize that, and maximize the SS lines lifetime. But it's not permanent. I've never had problems with 20 years on rubber lines, so I'll just put another $100 on the 7 year maintenance cost plan
breakdown.

 

**found typo**

confirmed with girodisc (johann).

1pc slotted rotor (front) is 25.5 lbs NOT 17.4 lbs
1pc slotted rotor (rear) is 18 lbs NOT 11.1 lbs

 

hi anyone, i just brought the ss brake lines. Wonder should i change it in order or just do it all at same time and how abt the fluid? any procedure and pic would help. plz help!

 

Fixed. Feel free to report and list the change. A mod can correct it. Or PM me and I will edit in X info.

Buy a Factory Service Manual. Worth it. If not, go to a shop. Brakes are a safety part. If you cannot do it right - don't do it.

Get fluid (Prestone DOT4 is a great/cheap DD fluid) and flush system.

 

Having come from a honduh start in my life with racing, a lot of the 'prolific' guys change their SS lines every single year due to belief of the lines actually getting brittle, which have become standard practice for me now.

 

Thx, appreciate that input a lot.

 

Great info in here. thanks all. Learning more and more about our cars.