Why dont you guys use that "Dr color chip" paint repair stuff. It works excellent for auto paint and they can actually make any color you need and send it to you. Thats probably the most effective and cost friendly route to go. Get the color code from Wedsport and go from there.

 

This is essentially impossible without the color code, which wheel manufacturers won't give you.

 

Really? Oh well that sucks. I figured if you called wedsport and told them the situation maybe they would help you out. Good luck

 

A member's supposedly running their set by the NA Weds office, so who knows... but as a general rule, wheel manufacturers won't give you any guidance on repairing a wheel, including paint codes or selling touch-up paint. They want you to buy another wheel.

 

i just got my sa55m installed, and there are some chipped paint around wheel cap area also, the paint is so thin it will come off by just rubbing your finger on it

 

Hopefully yours isn't bad enough that at least the center cap will cover it.

In any case, once paint's been compromised, it's not unusual for it to flake off on your finger, even if it's thick. You'll see this on pretty much any type of automotive paint: if you crack it, it'll flake off if you rub it.

 

I agree the Weds SA55M paint is really thin (mine's are MGM). Fortunately mine's aren't bad enough at least the center cap will cover it. Is the matte gray color paint anodized? I would have thought you can easily do some touch up at some rim repair shop.

BTW, Anyone run 18x10 +18 with 275/35/18? I have not lowered my car and would like to hear from everyone how to go about lower your car without rubbing. I am only planning some what moderate drop like 1.2 front, 0.8 rear..... etc. People suggested to go with coilover, roll rear fenders and run negative cambers -3 front, -2 rear.

I wonder if anyone here uses the swift springs with these wheels

Deric

 

Some wheels shops in the area have said they typically do not attempt to touch up wheels with flat or satin finishes. I'll probably have to find a regular body shop that doesn't care about any of that if I want them touched up.

 

Unnaceptable if you ask me that the paint on these wheels can't even withstand mounting and balancing. Imagine how they will look in a couple of years especially if used in winter weather.

 

For me, the stock BBS are my winter set. The BBS are much better in paint and quality I must say.

 

btw, the BBM wheels start off a black base with a blue clear coat.

 

Running these wheels with 275/35/18 R888's on swift springs.

You will need to roll your fenders. Honestly 275's are a little small. I'll go 285 next time around.

 

285? Are you serious? I am running 275/35/18 falkens 452 and its already rubbing the front wheel well when doing full corner.

I did finally get a set of HSD coilovers (not installed yet).

 

Yea, that's huge. 265s are the supposed "correct" size for a 10" wide wheel. 285s are going to stick out quite a bit, and you'll probably be risking sidewall roll under hard turning, which will make the car squirly on the track. Most people can get away with 275s OK on a 10" wheel, though.

 

275/35/18 here and no rubbing when auto crossing or on track... Rears rolled is all.

lol.. What? Yeah maybe if your in the "hellaflush" crowd, like stretched tires, and parking. Where is this supposed correct size information gathered from?

Here is a 275 on a 10" wheel. Not even close to sticking out. And a 285 would be even better and offer some protection to the lip of the wheel.




Here is a 265 on a 10" wheel, stretched and ridiculous looking.



You always want to look at the physical sizes on tha MFG website of the tire and make sure it's not to small. Most 265s will be to small. The only one I can think of right now thats not overly to small due to is larger section width is the Star Spec. A 265 looks "ok" on a 10" wheel but thats about it.