coilovers, alignments, corner balance?
#1
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coilovers, alignments, corner balance?
I'm planning to install a new set of coilovers this weekend.
It will be getting an alignment shortly thereafter (within a few days after install). I'm getting some other work done under warranty from the $tealership that includes an alignment, so I'm not paying for it,
Is it necessary to get a corner balance done?
What do they do for a corner balance? Get the all the coilovers at the correct height so that weight distribution is the same on all four corners?
If you set up the height/length of the coilovers to be the same on both L/R sides (or all 4 corners?) of the car, prior to install, does that remove the need for a corner balance?
It will be getting an alignment shortly thereafter (within a few days after install). I'm getting some other work done under warranty from the $tealership that includes an alignment, so I'm not paying for it,
Is it necessary to get a corner balance done?
What do they do for a corner balance? Get the all the coilovers at the correct height so that weight distribution is the same on all four corners?
If you set up the height/length of the coilovers to be the same on both L/R sides (or all 4 corners?) of the car, prior to install, does that remove the need for a corner balance?
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Relatively simple write-up on corner balancing:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performa...nerbalance.htm
Google search can be your friend.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performa...nerbalance.htm
Google search can be your friend.
#3
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That write-up on corner-balancing omits a critical step that way too many people skip. Whenever you are setting up ride height and/or corner-balancing, you MUST disconnect both sway bars first. You only reconnect the sway bars when you are completely finished. If you need adjustable end-links to do it, so be it. But never set ride height with the bars connected or you could end up with a preload on one or both bars.
Also, on cars that have bonded-rubber bushings, have every bushing-bolt slightly loose until you are done. Then retighten the bolts with the weight on the wheels. This was critical when I was setting up 2G DSMs. If you didn't do this, the bushings would be under a twisting load at static ride height, which is highly sub-optimal (to quote my daughter).
To the OP: no, you don't have to have the car balanced.
Also, on cars that have bonded-rubber bushings, have every bushing-bolt slightly loose until you are done. Then retighten the bolts with the weight on the wheels. This was critical when I was setting up 2G DSMs. If you didn't do this, the bushings would be under a twisting load at static ride height, which is highly sub-optimal (to quote my daughter).
To the OP: no, you don't have to have the car balanced.
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Unless it's a dedicated track car, I'd recommend against corner balancing. In some cases, you can end up with pretty funny looking ride height because of the fact that each spring needs to be preloaded differently to get the balance worked out.
Besides, if it's a street car that sees occasional track time, you're probably not at the level to even see the benefits of corner balancing.
Besides, if it's a street car that sees occasional track time, you're probably not at the level to even see the benefits of corner balancing.
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That write-up on corner-balancing omits a critical step that way too many people skip. Whenever you are setting up ride height and/or corner-balancing, you MUST disconnect both sway bars first. You only reconnect the sway bars when you are completely finished. If you need adjustable end-links to do it, so be it. But never set ride height with the bars connected or you could end up with a preload on one or both bars.
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