So I've been reading through as much as I can to try to find the best brake package...

I recently had a track day (65 degree day btw) where I experienced bad brake fade. The stock pads and rotors are pretty much toast, so its time for an upgrade.

I do about 2 HPDE events per year. Otherwise, my evo is a weekend car, and even at that I take it pretty easy.

I'm thinking about running the Girodisc stage 2 package with Ferodo DS2500s. For anyone who doesn't know, that package is their slotted 1pc rotors and braided brake lines. It seems like the best deal for the money.

After pulling everything apart today it looks like I'll also need to rebuild the front calipers. I've also been debating the 2pc front rotor, but I also will be buying track wheels/tires. And since I will be pulling the calipers off I'm thinking about powdercoating them, so anywhere I can get away with saving money is a good thing.

I'm open to any suggestions. I'm looking for a cost effective upgrade that will stop better than stock. I'm concerned about not overheating the brakes, noise, and not eating through rotors. I can deal with dust.

Sorry for the long post...but I appreciate your help!

 

I'll be happy to help.

Unless you've added a LOT of weight and some/lots of HP, your brakes are not bad. How many HP? I'm not on a dyno, just added a TBE but I know I picked up 1sec and 7mph in the quarter, so I'm not stock. The Brembo's are FINE. But here's a run down that will be better than stock and you'll thank me.

1) Fluid flushes, religion can wait, a flush should not. Motive power bleeder fwiw. I've only used Superblue ATE Racing fluid myself, YMMV. Your fading was most likely boiling down low, a sign that you've water in the lines. Don't be shy flushing, I use an entire litre each time, I change before EVERY HPDE even if they're only a month apart. It's only $14/ltr.

2) Stainless Steel brake lines -- plenty out there, find something that's not something you'll struggle getting support later tho, my 2cents. Also, YMMV as the braiding lets in dirt, dust and other small abrasives making these a wear item. But pretty cost effective to stiffen up your pedel. $120 will set you up, it's an easy DIY.

3) PADS -- get real racing pads. This car is heavy. I had an instructor who loved my car in my novice session, but suggested "real pads", get some "racing pads". He was sage, that old man. I got the pleasure of getting him as an instructor for a recent advanced class. He noted the improved torque control and braking that it was doing. I'm running DTC60's just on track weekends, otherwise I have some Stop tech street performance pads that I've gotten 30000 miles out of. Soon will replace them, but considering I got 24k out of the super-expensive OEM's, good value.

4) Clean and clean and clean those calipers and assy -- if you're thinking money is a way to buy yourself out of regular TLC, you should buy a Merc and then go to the lovely mercedes dealer every month or two. Our cars need TLC for top performance, so every time you're playing with the brakes, clean those calipers really well. Use a household cleanser, nothing fancy, any degreaser. Don't use brake parts cleaner or bleach ever. Clean it and try to make it like new.

5) OEM style air guides -- the OEM's are plastic and have an easy-to-break mold line if you bottom out or break it trying to torque off the calipers off the wheel hub assy. But they help.

6) Waste your money on other mods, not rotors -- I've found several good OEM replacements for the blanks, Partsgeek.com or O'Reilly's Wagner or Bosch. They're iron and soft, and just wear ablative material that's "throwaway" by definition. $50/rotor translates into many HPDE days.

7) Buy a rebuild kit and take it to your trusted local 'tuner' performance shop. I think they run $36 a kit, might be for a pair. These calipers are especially easy to take apart, and all calipers are designed to be rebuilt, very few parts and incredibly hard to do wrong if you do it at all.

I use an IR gun on my parts after the cool down session, and I'm seldom seeing much over 400deg F on anything. Rotors in the middle are usually hottest, also the pads are pretty dang hot. I've NEVER experienced fade but definitely have gotten tires greasy regularly with a bit of constant late braking on some tight turns at Putnam Pk.

 

^1 My instructor told me another instructor asked him how the brakes were in my car, my instr told me that he told this guy, "About perfect, as close as you can get"

 

I appreciate the post...

I don't disagree with any of the information you posted.

I think one of the factors is I was running a catback the first track day and had no issues. The second track day I was running tuned with a TBE, intake, and 3Port. I am pretty certain the added HP (340whp) contributed to the brake fade.

I did flush with Superblue the week before with no driving between and re-bled to verify the issue wasn't related to moisture or air. I might try a higher bp fluid, since all I've ever run is superblue.

At the time I did clean everything as I always do with Simple Green. My pad are worn, piston dust boots are baked, and rotors grooved.

After several emails with Johann from Girodisc I think I'm going with the above mentioned package. I think I may also do a foglight delete and use the extra air for brake ducts.

I also like the AMS and girodisc brake lines because they have a sheath to help keep dust/dirt out of the lines a bit better.

 

Bummer on the dust boots being baked... that's probably the deal breaker in trying to salvage what you got. Would definitely need a full rebuild of them.

Are these the OEM pads? I wasn't impressed by them, I only ran one HDPE with them, Novice class, and glad I got something different as soon as I could.

(Most SS lines do have the sheathing, my AMS lines do, but they can still let in the dust at the ends, at least the ones I have, but yeah, it does help with that dirt issue.)

Me, I'm married, two kids, college looming and costs never going away, so I save as much money on "optional" equipment so I can buy track time, tires and brakes I'm not tight, I'm just frugal