brake bleeding issues:/
#1
brake bleeding issues:/
so I'm installing stainless lines... and forgot to close the bleeder screw (front right caliper) before pumping the pedal.... and the reservoir is dry. can I just fill it up and redo it (properly)? or do I have to bleed that unit first? also, would I have to purge the abs unit somehow by engaging it (stopping hard on gravel or gravel)?
any info is helpful.
thanks
any info is helpful.
thanks
#2
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Have to do it all again. Make sure you bleed in order for evo. It is not the same as normal car. Can't recall order but it is an X method. If you search you'll find it. This time double check each one. Lol.
#4
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I've been searching around for you, but can't find anything that says, either way, whether there is a special bleeding procedure for a possible air-pocket in the ABS unit. But I do know without checking anything that you need to be concerned about an air-pocket also now being in the clutch line. Shared reservoir, you know.
#6
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If there's no special bleeding required for the ABS unit and you didn't create an air-pocket in the clutch line, then it's nothing. Just start the brake-bleeding over and don't let it go dry again.
If you have an air-pocket in the clutch-line, that's a pain to bleed, but, on a lift, it's no harder than one corner of the brakes.
I still have no idea if any special bleeding is needed for an air-pocket in the ABS. My guts say no, but my guts also said buying MicroSoft at $5 would be stupid.
If you have an air-pocket in the clutch-line, that's a pain to bleed, but, on a lift, it's no harder than one corner of the brakes.
I still have no idea if any special bleeding is needed for an air-pocket in the ABS. My guts say no, but my guts also said buying MicroSoft at $5 would be stupid.
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#8
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I believe that you're think about this wrong. The question is really how do you know when you have forced all the air, including any which may have been in the master cylinder, down the lines and out the bleeders. One way to do this is to switch colors of brake fluid. Then you just bleed everything until you see the new color. The other way is to simply have a sensitive foot. As each line and caliper is emptied of air, the pedal becomes one step firmer.
#9
ah, yes i see what youre saying. so what if i put food dye (like red or blue or something) into the current fluid... has anyone ever done that? i mean, id have to make sure that i bleed all that sh*t out lol since i doubt its properties as a brake fluid arent that great... or were all missing out >.>
#10
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Not a dye. There are different DOT 3s and 4s that are different colors. In fact, there's a version of Super Blue (in terms of the recipe used) that is yellow, instead of blue.
But you don't need to go that far. Assuming you don't have a power bleeder, the person pumping the pedal should be able to say when the line being worked on no longer has air in it.
But you don't need to go that far. Assuming you don't have a power bleeder, the person pumping the pedal should be able to say when the line being worked on no longer has air in it.
#12
...or the opposite: when i think i dont have to bleed the mc when i actually do. bc by what youre saying, the pedal feel will be different with air in the mc or lines (i got that,thats a given), but are u saying the mc will bleed its self once i start bleeding the lines as normal. as that actually the case? unless im not getting something here...
#13
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Ah. Now I get the question. Air is compressible. That's the whole reason to get it bled out. So when you have succeeded in removing the air from a line, the brake pedal will become noticeably stiffer at the top. It's quite dramatic, if you pay attention. Last pump there was about 2" of dead pedal at the top. Now it's only 1.5". That means you just got the air bubble out of one of your four lines.
(Yeah, yeah, it's probably not linear, as I'm suggesting, but that seems both overkill and elitist to go into, no?)
(Yeah, yeah, it's probably not linear, as I'm suggesting, but that seems both overkill and elitist to go into, no?)