View Poll Results: Do you change your own oil?
Yes. No one but me can touch my Bebe there.
115
72.78%
No. I trust other people I can\'t see to service my car.
43
27.22%
Voters: 158. You may not vote on this poll
Do you change your own oil?
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MD
POLL: Do you change your own oil?
I'm thinking about changing my own oil, but I wanted to get some advice and feedback first.
First of all, is it that hard?
Second, what filter would you recommend?
Third, and probably most important, what kind of oil should I use? (Viscosity, Synthetic or not, etc.)
One more thing. Are there any warranty issues with changing your own oil? I've heard that if you don't have it documented by a certified company, it might void your engine warranty.
Thanks in advance.
D
First of all, is it that hard?
Second, what filter would you recommend?
Third, and probably most important, what kind of oil should I use? (Viscosity, Synthetic or not, etc.)
One more thing. Are there any warranty issues with changing your own oil? I've heard that if you don't have it documented by a certified company, it might void your engine warranty.
Thanks in advance.
D
Last edited by purecoda; Jan 22, 2003 at 12:17 PM.
It's very easy. I'd recommend getting an oil filter wrench though, because hand torquing isn't easy. Besides that all you need is something to collect the oil, a socket to loosen the plug, a new filter, some oil (3 quarts worked fine for me), some jack stands and some time.
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: MS
Re: POLL: Do you change your own oil?
Originally posted by purecoda
One more thing. Are there any warranty issues with changing your own oil? I've heard that if you don't have it documented by a certified company, it might void your engine warranty.
One more thing. Are there any warranty issues with changing your own oil? I've heard that if you don't have it documented by a certified company, it might void your engine warranty.
Trending Topics
Hey,
Thought I'd give my input. I use full synthetic and WIX filters, they are by far the best oil filter you can get. With synthetic oil you don't need to actually change the oil, just the filter. Also, I use a process called "sweetening" using Mystery Miracle Oil where you add half the bottle before the oil change, drive the car for the day. Change the filter and add back the oil and then add the other half of the bottle. Old trick from a guy I know who is a huge mechanical techie and has owned over 150 automobiles.
Keep it Real --Ken
Thought I'd give my input. I use full synthetic and WIX filters, they are by far the best oil filter you can get. With synthetic oil you don't need to actually change the oil, just the filter. Also, I use a process called "sweetening" using Mystery Miracle Oil where you add half the bottle before the oil change, drive the car for the day. Change the filter and add back the oil and then add the other half of the bottle. Old trick from a guy I know who is a huge mechanical techie and has owned over 150 automobiles.
Keep it Real --Ken
If the Fram Xtra Gard is the one with the PTFE lubricant built-in, I'd stay away from it. It's like slick50 that's installed in the oil filter and will release into the oil system. There have been studies that show wax buildup from slick50 and similar products in oil galleries and bearings, causing adverse operation in the engine.
I can't remember if it's the Fram Xtra Gard our Double Gard that has the extra additive in it. I'd advise staying away from the one that does.
Some people swear by certain filters... I just buy what I can for my car. Usually the nicer Fram (but not the additive one) for tough duty or Purolator PureOne depending on whether I'm getting the filter from WallyWorld or PepBoys, and what's in stock. I have heard WIX are very good filters, though.
As for oil, use what the book recommends if possible. Colder climates probably want a 5w-30 so it's lighter on startup. Hotter climates 10w-40 so the oil doesn't thin out at the hot ambient temps. 10w-30 is almost always a good compromise. My girlfriend's volvo recommends 10w-40, probably because it's turbo, but I couldn't find that at either Pep Boys or WallyWorld, so I just settled on 10w-30.
You can go synthetic if you want, probably not necessary on a moderate-revving, non-turbo car. If you had a higher-rev car and/or turbo you'd probably want to think more about synthetic, especially turbo since those really contribute to the breakdown of the oil. I have heard that once you go synthetic, you shouldn't go back to conventional... not sure if that's true or not.
For the cost of an oil change at a local shop, you can probably do your own oil with synthetic (say 4 bucks a quart plus a couple bucks for the filter).
If you're serious about it, too, I'd recommend an easyoil drain valve. I have a Fumoto Valve on my car (you can search for that online) and it makes draining super easy. I think Fram makes a similar product now that you can buy in stores, not sure if they make it for many applications, though.
I can't remember if it's the Fram Xtra Gard our Double Gard that has the extra additive in it. I'd advise staying away from the one that does.
Some people swear by certain filters... I just buy what I can for my car. Usually the nicer Fram (but not the additive one) for tough duty or Purolator PureOne depending on whether I'm getting the filter from WallyWorld or PepBoys, and what's in stock. I have heard WIX are very good filters, though.
As for oil, use what the book recommends if possible. Colder climates probably want a 5w-30 so it's lighter on startup. Hotter climates 10w-40 so the oil doesn't thin out at the hot ambient temps. 10w-30 is almost always a good compromise. My girlfriend's volvo recommends 10w-40, probably because it's turbo, but I couldn't find that at either Pep Boys or WallyWorld, so I just settled on 10w-30.
You can go synthetic if you want, probably not necessary on a moderate-revving, non-turbo car. If you had a higher-rev car and/or turbo you'd probably want to think more about synthetic, especially turbo since those really contribute to the breakdown of the oil. I have heard that once you go synthetic, you shouldn't go back to conventional... not sure if that's true or not.
For the cost of an oil change at a local shop, you can probably do your own oil with synthetic (say 4 bucks a quart plus a couple bucks for the filter).
If you're serious about it, too, I'd recommend an easyoil drain valve. I have a Fumoto Valve on my car (you can search for that online) and it makes draining super easy. I think Fram makes a similar product now that you can buy in stores, not sure if they make it for many applications, though.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
I use Valvoline, full synthetic now (Used to use Dura-Blend) in 10W-30 Trim... I also use Bosch premium filters. Because I do this myself, I purchased a filter wrench, and a Fram Sure drain... It keeps me from having dropping the drain plug, and also keeps things clean.
As far as warranty goes, I just take notes in the manual, and specify dates, mileage, etc... I also keep the reciepts from the oil, filters, etc... That way you can show that it was done...
As far as warranty goes, I just take notes in the manual, and specify dates, mileage, etc... I also keep the reciepts from the oil, filters, etc... That way you can show that it was done...
Evolved Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,722
Likes: 0
From: Up to 80 miles north of Gilroy
Originally posted by HobieKopek
I run Castrol synthetic blend. Why? Cuz it was cheaper then full synthetic.
(At the time I was short on cash)
I'm going to move to Mobil 1 after I finish this case.
I run Castrol synthetic blend. Why? Cuz it was cheaper then full synthetic.
(At the time I was short on cash)I'm going to move to Mobil 1 after I finish this case.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, MD
ROB281 needs to change his name to BEARPAW.
And as far as Jiffy Lube goes, I will never go there again. They put a HUGE and I mean HUGE scratch on my car. I didn't notice till like 3 days later though, because it was on the rear passenger side. Hence, I was SOL, and have yet one more damn thing in my life that wasn't my fault that costs me money. DAMN YOU PEOPLE FOR NOT BEING HONEST AND TELLING ME YOU SCRATCHED IT. AND I KNOW IT WAS YOU BECAUSE YOU HAD BLACK HOSE SCUFFS ON ALL THE BUMPER CORNERS AS WELL. I HATE YOU! I HATE JIFFY LUBE!
So anyway, does anyone know if once you go synthetic, you can't go back? I've never heard that before, and it sounds more like a sales pitch than truth to me.
D
And as far as Jiffy Lube goes, I will never go there again. They put a HUGE and I mean HUGE scratch on my car. I didn't notice till like 3 days later though, because it was on the rear passenger side. Hence, I was SOL, and have yet one more damn thing in my life that wasn't my fault that costs me money. DAMN YOU PEOPLE FOR NOT BEING HONEST AND TELLING ME YOU SCRATCHED IT. AND I KNOW IT WAS YOU BECAUSE YOU HAD BLACK HOSE SCUFFS ON ALL THE BUMPER CORNERS AS WELL. I HATE YOU! I HATE JIFFY LUBE!
So anyway, does anyone know if once you go synthetic, you can't go back? I've never heard that before, and it sounds more like a sales pitch than truth to me.
D
Last edited by purecoda; Jan 22, 2003 at 04:00 PM.
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
i change my own, use fram filter, and castrol gtx (non-synth). synthetic oil in this car is a waste of money. so is getting a more expensive filter. the car will run fine with regular cheap old oil and cheap filter. there's no reason to waste money on synths and expensive filters especially if you maintain your car and service it at proper intervals.
