Grounding kits
The only one that is good for the money is the one you make yourself for $10. Otherwise, you'll pay about $100 for some colorful grounding cables. This isn't the sort of item you shop around for...
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
if you go to a car audio place, they will give you scrap cable they have that they cant use ... they dont need it, and just buy a power distro block that isnt fused to use for the distro and some ring terminal connectors and you are good... 10$ later you are grounded
Here is a review by the Tuner Performance Reports magazine about them -
http://www.tprmag.com/issue/8/8_elec_stab.shtml
Read the 2nd page last paragraph that says the following -
"As to ignition system grounds, one of the performance parameters in an engine is ignition timing. Timing is derived from sensors on the flywheel or crank. These sensors create reference pulses. A pulse can either be there or not. If not, the car stops. No additional grounding changes that. As to the ignition system itself: as long as there is enough spark energy to light the fire, the engine runs. More ignition energy does NOT increase power, just spark-plug wear. So if the ignition system is adequately grounded no amount of more grounding can do any good."
A good read none the less -
Also here is another article from a 2003 Evo 8 that had the Buddy Club Condenser review and dyno information --
http://www.tprmag.com/issue/12/12_evolution.shtml
w/quote - "Last but not least we made Ad Sales guy Justin Lim install the Buddy Club’s Racing Spec Condenser. Many Mitsubishi buffs know that they have a less than adequate grounding system. This product regulates voltage while increasing the effi ciency of the vehicles ground points. Kevin Feng from Buddy Club USA recommended we used the throttle body, alternator, and engine block as grounding points. When we put Project EVO back on the dyno we didn’t expect what we got. Peak HP stayed consistent with the previous test however we saw 281.71 lbs. of torque at 3800 RPM (up from 253.99 at 3900RPM)! Just to clarify, boost levels were at 12.5 psi at 3800 RPM for both baseline and fi nal testing. The EVO was loaded up at 2400 RPM and ramped simultaneously to prevent unusual boost spiking at low RPM."
http://www.buddyclub.us/buddyclub/top_m.html
http://www.tprmag.com/issue/8/8_elec_stab.shtml
Read the 2nd page last paragraph that says the following -
"As to ignition system grounds, one of the performance parameters in an engine is ignition timing. Timing is derived from sensors on the flywheel or crank. These sensors create reference pulses. A pulse can either be there or not. If not, the car stops. No additional grounding changes that. As to the ignition system itself: as long as there is enough spark energy to light the fire, the engine runs. More ignition energy does NOT increase power, just spark-plug wear. So if the ignition system is adequately grounded no amount of more grounding can do any good."
A good read none the less -
Also here is another article from a 2003 Evo 8 that had the Buddy Club Condenser review and dyno information --
http://www.tprmag.com/issue/12/12_evolution.shtml
w/quote - "Last but not least we made Ad Sales guy Justin Lim install the Buddy Club’s Racing Spec Condenser. Many Mitsubishi buffs know that they have a less than adequate grounding system. This product regulates voltage while increasing the effi ciency of the vehicles ground points. Kevin Feng from Buddy Club USA recommended we used the throttle body, alternator, and engine block as grounding points. When we put Project EVO back on the dyno we didn’t expect what we got. Peak HP stayed consistent with the previous test however we saw 281.71 lbs. of torque at 3800 RPM (up from 253.99 at 3900RPM)! Just to clarify, boost levels were at 12.5 psi at 3800 RPM for both baseline and fi nal testing. The EVO was loaded up at 2400 RPM and ramped simultaneously to prevent unusual boost spiking at low RPM."
http://www.buddyclub.us/buddyclub/top_m.html
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I had the Mitsubishi Hyperground kit on my EVO and I don't think there was any improvement, the dyno confirmed this where I baselined 218WHP on the Mustang Dyno before and after.
I don't have a grounding kit on my new 2005 Silver GSR, I do have a Apexi Auto Timer that measure the A/F, o2 sensor, and battery voltage. When I am cruising around town with the stereo on and defrosters (because it's winter) I am sitting at 14.2 volts, with no fluctuation realtime.
I don't have a grounding kit on my new 2005 Silver GSR, I do have a Apexi Auto Timer that measure the A/F, o2 sensor, and battery voltage. When I am cruising around town with the stereo on and defrosters (because it's winter) I am sitting at 14.2 volts, with no fluctuation realtime.
i understand this whole grounding kit, but im still lost when it comes to hook it up to the neg. terminal. if u take off the old terminal and place the new one with the ground wires on, how does the power get to the car, cause now the old one is just off hanging there? plus what do u do with the old on ne ways?
all the ground does is connect the metal chassis or engine block to the negative terminal to the battery. if you take off the stock negative terminal, all you need to do is put a new terminal on and connect the other end to something made of metal, and primarily the engine block with a cleaned surface or a major chassis point with a cleaned surface.
but just like everyone else has said, the grounds are not worth your money to replace. the stock ground does just fine. if you feel so inclinded to replace it, then make your own for a fraction of the cost of a grounding "kit"
but just like everyone else has said, the grounds are not worth your money to replace. the stock ground does just fine. if you feel so inclinded to replace it, then make your own for a fraction of the cost of a grounding "kit"
Originally Posted by flo2877
thanks for all the info, never even thought about that. Well you guys got me already seems like im gonna make my own then. thanks
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