Haha, good Lord. You say you "know" that it's better to be in 40 degree air than 100 degree air, but then you go on to repeat the mistake from above where you say that it doesn't matter how hot the intake air is just because of how the turbo and fmic work. WELL GUESS WHAT? YOU ARE WRONG. I just freakin told you that it makes a huge difference. 50whp? No, 20-30whp? Oh hell yes. Did you totally gloss over the part about SAE correction on dynos and cars in hot areas that can't match times put down in cooler areas? People always hit their record times in the Winter with cooler weather. You're being incredibly obstinate if you think otherwise. Also, those bleeped words will get you a ticket to the banned list in a hurry, so you might want to check yourself.

Oh goodness, now you're going to add an induction pipe? From one mistake to another. I tell ya what; you don't like to listen to those who have a clue, so I'll just let you go ahead and call the stock, corrugated MAF pipe a piece of "plastic chit" while running around with your induction pipe that screws up the MAF readings. You have done no research on this matter and have no clue what you're talking about. I no longer am interested in helping you, so go knock yourself out. Let me know when you beat my stock intake/stock maf pipe times...

 

Seriously I don't want to argue with you.
But on a side note I think you challenged me to a race so lets get it on lol
Let me put my RS-R TBE on and get a flash and I'll hand you your ***. enjoy!

 

Yes, I'm sure you will...

 

best responce thus far. Good info!

 

g-gray you should listen to warrtalon the man has been around turbo cars , you do not have much common sence as for every degeree of heat going into the turbo has to be cooled through the fmic , so pulling hot air through the hot engine compartment with holes in your air box is just plain dumb, you just dont get it ,

 

It is very childish to react that way to what Warrtalon has told you. He is correct, albeit edgy. It would be poor for overall performance to drill the stock intake box. There is a reason that CAI's were invented.....to get colder air, because it makes the vehicle perform better. At the drag strip (if you've ever been) you have probably noticed people icing down their intakes and their intake manifolds.....it helps them reach higher speed traps, and it's a fact. Why would you even mod your car at all if you are not going to watch out for every aspect of your power? While I can understand a viewpoint that is nonchalant, like if someone were to say that they would prefer to hear the turbo and BOV and sacrifice power for that, then that's their business and I can't say anything. But for someone thinking it may enhance power.....that's just rediculous.

 

I always over react in situations where I feel that I'm being attacked personally, I understand that warrtalon is trying to help but he could go about it a different way. He would have got a differnet reaction from me if he wasn't so rude. If I'm wrong about 40 degree air being worth 20-30whp over 100 degree air than correct me and nothing more, there was no reason to insalt me. For the record I still don't believe that there is 30whp difference when sucking in 40degree air v.s 100 degree air. If thats true than last night I was 30whp more in power than earlier that afternoon how does one ever get a proper tune if weather affects the car 30 whp hour to hour? so ever few hours my power flucuates 20 - 30 whp according to you guys?


How can I learn more without searching and asking questions? its the only way.....

 

I see where you're coming from. I would have to say that there's nearly no way that it's as high as 30whp. But, 10-20 isn't out of the question! Especially for a 60 degree difference. Warrtalon is set in his internet ways, I'm the same way when I know a lot about a certain car on a forum. It's just the way it is.....

If you were to race your car at 6am in 40* temperatures with the airbox 'mod' and then race again at noon with 100* temperatures, there would be a significant difference in power. Same thing for a dyno. Now, as for your tuning question, they will tune your car based on the modifications you have, and the conditions at the time. There are correction factors, as Warr mentioned, such as SAE correction that are developed specifically for changes in outside factors.

-T

 

I know the "butt" dyno isn't accurate but I know what I feel when I drive and on a hot day I feel no power loss and it pulls just as hard as any other day. The only time I feel a slight difference is very late at night when its colder than normal, even then it doesn't feel like 10-15 whp. I just put a 80mm cat-back as my first real mod and that was a definate 10-15 whp gain unlike this weather thing.

 

Of course, the exhaust has a change in sound that oftentimes translates into the owner thinkin that noise= power.

 

Not to highjack the thread, but I have a Buschur Intake Pipe/Buschur Cone Intake and was curious why one should run the stock MAF "plastic Chit" instead?? Why would someone like Buschur sell this then Warr? If you're tuned for this, wouldn't that be okay? I'm just confused... please educate me; I'm kinda new to the turbo scene- and new to this forum, too. I'm usually on DC EVO CLUB. Thanks for your help!

 

Anybody else, too, that could explain this to me. THANKS!

 

lol the sound isn't it, if any thing the sound makes it sound/feel slower. Sorry but I never realized how bad this car sounds, I guess I still miss my sti's rumble. But adding the 80mm catback did increase the power of my car, there is no way even untuned that I didn't gain at least 10hp. I can definatly feel the increase in power. When I raced my cousins 06 c6 vette he beat me bad, now with the cat back and filter I'm not to far off.....

 

Bro you shouldn't run that pos plastic turbo inlet pipe........just look at it, it's not a straight/ smooth pipe. There is a lot more turbulance of air flow with the stock pipe. An aftermarket pipe would be much better because it doesn't have that turbulant flex section, the aftermarket pipe is smooth. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Good God, man, please stop saying this stuff when you have no idea what you're talking about. The accordion-style MAF pipe is that way for a reason!!! It's this exact thing that the aftermarket pipes DON'T mimic, which is why they throw off the MAF readings. Please, please PLEASE stop blurting things out that you have no clue about. You just got your Evo IX and have no clue about this stuff. Despite proof and the fact that everyone else in the world knows it to be true, you still are trying to argue that your damn butt dyno is more accurate than proven fact (trap speeds & dyno results). First of all, you can't hardly feel a 10-15hp difference, so don't give me all that about your cat-back. 10whp would not make a race vs a C6 noticably different than stock.. You DEFINITELY can feel a difference in the hot summer vs the nice cool winter, though. You are just being stubborn about this because you didn't like being told how wrong you were. I don't just mean wrong, but I mean terribly and embarassingly wrong. Don't worry, it's happened to me a few times, too, and I didn't like it.

Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT GO AROUND SAYING THE STOCK MAF PIPE IS A PROBLEM. If you replace it with a straight smooth metal pipe, that causes the worst problems with the MAF of all.

Silevo, Buschur like any other vendor tries to make money. He makes and sells parts he believes in, and that filter will make power. However, the trouble you have to go through, the extra cost, and the lessened filtering ability is not worth it to me when the gains are so small (3-4whp?). There is no real reason to get it on a car with less than 350whp. People just THINK that because every Honda has an intake that they automatically have to buy one for their Evo right away. Some people also do it just so they can hear the neat little airplane suction sound followed by a BOV purge. That's not my cup of tea, but for many, it is. If you have to buy an intake, at least get the BR filter, but the $250-$400 units are the ones that really chap my hide. Also, do NOT get the metal MAF pipe until much further down the line when it becomes necessary, and make sure you get one that is proven not to alter MAF signals (such as the new Buschur version claims).