Drilled stock intake box?
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 25
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From: WV
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Good God, man, please stop saying this stuff when you have no idea what you're talking about. The accordion-style MAF pipe is that way for a reason!!! It's this exact thing that the aftermarket pipes DON'T mimic, which is why they throw off the MAF readings. Please, please PLEASE stop blurting things out that you have no clue about. You just got your Evo IX and have no clue about this stuff. Despite proof and the fact that everyone else in the world knows it to be true, you still are trying to argue that your damn butt dyno is more accurate than proven fact (trap speeds & dyno results). First of all, you can't hardly feel a 10-15hp difference, so don't give me all that about your cat-back. 10whp would not make a race vs a C6 noticably different than stock.. You DEFINITELY can feel a difference in the hot summer vs the nice cool winter, though. You are just being stubborn about this because you didn't like being told how wrong you were. I don't just mean wrong, but I mean terribly and embarassingly wrong. Don't worry, it's happened to me a few times, too, and I didn't like it.
Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT GO AROUND SAYING THE STOCK MAF PIPE IS A PROBLEM. If you replace it with a straight smooth metal pipe, that causes the worst problems with the MAF of all.
Silevo, Buschur like any other vendor tries to make money. He makes and sells parts he believes in, and that filter will make power. However, the trouble you have to go through, the extra cost, and the lessened filtering ability is not worth it to me when the gains are so small (3-4whp?). There is no real reason to get it on a car with less than 350whp. People just THINK that because every Honda has an intake that they automatically have to buy one for their Evo right away. Some people also do it just so they can hear the neat little airplane suction sound followed by a BOV purge. That's not my cup of tea, but for many, it is. If you have to buy an intake, at least get the BR filter, but the $250-$400 units are the ones that really chap my hide. Also, do NOT get the metal MAF pipe until much further down the line when it becomes necessary, and make sure you get one that is proven not to alter MAF signals (such as the new Buschur version claims).
Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT GO AROUND SAYING THE STOCK MAF PIPE IS A PROBLEM. If you replace it with a straight smooth metal pipe, that causes the worst problems with the MAF of all.
Silevo, Buschur like any other vendor tries to make money. He makes and sells parts he believes in, and that filter will make power. However, the trouble you have to go through, the extra cost, and the lessened filtering ability is not worth it to me when the gains are so small (3-4whp?). There is no real reason to get it on a car with less than 350whp. People just THINK that because every Honda has an intake that they automatically have to buy one for their Evo right away. Some people also do it just so they can hear the neat little airplane suction sound followed by a BOV purge. That's not my cup of tea, but for many, it is. If you have to buy an intake, at least get the BR filter, but the $250-$400 units are the ones that really chap my hide. Also, do NOT get the metal MAF pipe until much further down the line when it becomes necessary, and make sure you get one that is proven not to alter MAF signals (such as the new Buschur version claims).
Originally Posted by SILEVO8
Thanks for the reply Warr. Believe me, I trust what you're saying. I've see your posts in DC EVO CLUB all the time. I know you are knowledgeable on these subjects. Unfortunately for me, I already have the aformentioned parts. I guess you live and learn. If I had to do it all over again, I would have sought advice, BEFORE I started modding my EVO. The $250 I spent in intake parts could have gone to more useful mods earlier in the process, epecially since I'm well under 350whp.
I thought we had already spoken on DcEvo, though. Did we not already talk about this stuff and the Warrtalon packages?
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 25
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From: WV
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
yes, I try to get to everyone before they make mistakes, but it's hard to do. We have a lot of guys here and locally who start out wrong, but then get on the right track after some guidance. If you have BR intake stuff already, then don't fret - they are still useful, of course, but I just prefer to start out with different things first that provide more gains for the money.
I thought we had already spoken on DcEvo, though. Did we not already talk about this stuff and the Warrtalon packages?
I thought we had already spoken on DcEvo, though. Did we not already talk about this stuff and the Warrtalon packages?
I've kinda followed the Warr/SF packages since then and have sought the advice of vendors of Dc Evo, though I do need a full custom tune to really optimize everything. I think I'm on the right track now though. I appreciate your help.
Last edited by SILEVO8; Jan 27, 2006 at 01:01 PM.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Good God, man, please stop saying this stuff when you have no idea what you're talking about. The accordion-style MAF pipe is that way for a reason!!! It's this exact thing that the aftermarket pipes DON'T mimic, which is why they throw off the MAF readings. Please, please PLEASE stop blurting things out that you have no clue about. You just got your Evo IX and have no clue about this stuff. Despite proof and the fact that everyone else in the world knows it to be true, you still are trying to argue that your damn butt dyno is more accurate than proven fact (trap speeds & dyno results). First of all, you can't hardly feel a 10-15hp difference, so don't give me all that about your cat-back. 10whp would not make a race vs a C6 noticably different than stock.. You DEFINITELY can feel a difference in the hot summer vs the nice cool winter, though. You are just being stubborn about this because you didn't like being told how wrong you were. I don't just mean wrong, but I mean terribly and embarassingly wrong. Don't worry, it's happened to me a few times, too, and I didn't like it.
Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT GO AROUND SAYING THE STOCK MAF PIPE IS A PROBLEM. If you replace it with a straight smooth metal pipe, that causes the worst problems with the MAF of all.
Silevo, Buschur like any other vendor tries to make money. He makes and sells parts he believes in, and that filter will make power. However, the trouble you have to go through, the extra cost, and the lessened filtering ability is not worth it to me when the gains are so small (3-4whp?). There is no real reason to get it on a car with less than 350whp. People just THINK that because every Honda has an intake that they automatically have to buy one for their Evo right away. Some people also do it just so they can hear the neat little airplane suction sound followed by a BOV purge. That's not my cup of tea, but for many, it is. If you have to buy an intake, at least get the BR filter, but the $250-$400 units are the ones that really chap my hide. Also, do NOT get the metal MAF pipe until much further down the line when it becomes necessary, and make sure you get one that is proven not to alter MAF signals (such as the new Buschur version claims).
Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT GO AROUND SAYING THE STOCK MAF PIPE IS A PROBLEM. If you replace it with a straight smooth metal pipe, that causes the worst problems with the MAF of all.
Silevo, Buschur like any other vendor tries to make money. He makes and sells parts he believes in, and that filter will make power. However, the trouble you have to go through, the extra cost, and the lessened filtering ability is not worth it to me when the gains are so small (3-4whp?). There is no real reason to get it on a car with less than 350whp. People just THINK that because every Honda has an intake that they automatically have to buy one for their Evo right away. Some people also do it just so they can hear the neat little airplane suction sound followed by a BOV purge. That's not my cup of tea, but for many, it is. If you have to buy an intake, at least get the BR filter, but the $250-$400 units are the ones that really chap my hide. Also, do NOT get the metal MAF pipe until much further down the line when it becomes necessary, and make sure you get one that is proven not to alter MAF signals (such as the new Buschur version claims).
You say a filter is worth 3-4 whp yet you say my 80mm cat back didn't even net me 10- 15 crank hp.
Last edited by GgreyEVOIX; Jan 27, 2006 at 12:50 PM.
Originally Posted by GgreyEVOIX
You expect me to believe that 40 degree air is worth 30whp over 100 degree air and now you say my 80mm cat back isn't worth 10 crank hp? you sir are the idiot then. You twist my words then call me a moron, shame on you. You are a terrible human being......you can't wait to attack me. As I said before correct me if I'm wrong and stop talking chit. So your saying there is no turbulance in the stock intake pipe? fine then. Post info and nothing more.
You say a filter is worth 3-4 whp yet you say my 80mm cat back didn't even net me 10- 15 crank hp.
You say a filter is worth 3-4 whp yet you say my 80mm cat back didn't even net me 10- 15 crank hp.
How can you still refute the extra power with lower temps? I'm baffled by your continued stubbornness. I guess I should have stuck to what I said earlier when I said I'd let you go on about your ignorance. After all, it truly is bliss, you know?
For the sake of this thread and forum I will make no further comments about or to warrtalon, he said what he said and as did I so it should just end right here right now. I offer you this kush blunt as a "peace blunt" lol
Hey all. As for the little temperature debate, I think it was somewhere on these forums actually that I read that for every 11* drop in temperature you get an increase of 1 hp. So... 106* on one day, and 40* on another, would show a difference of 6hp.
I know none of you were doubting that temperature has an affect on hp, but I thought I would just throw some numbers in to help out.
I know none of you were doubting that temperature has an affect on hp, but I thought I would just throw some numbers in to help out.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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It's not the intake temperature that is affecting horsepower(Up/Down). It is the temp of the air actually entering the intake manifold. Which is the air coming from the intercooler. So if it is a hot day, 100 degrees plus, then it is actually the temp of the intercooler and piping that is affecting power. That's the reason for the intercooler sprayer idea and alky/water injection.
Originally Posted by slow_evo
Can someone please enlighten me on WTF "kush" is? lol.
? Thats what it is except it's purple, it's a very "sweet" smoke.
Yes, I know it's the temp of the air that's currently entering the intake manifold, but the ambient temp, and intake temp has an affect on that. If the ambient temp is 100*, and you only have an intercooler, your ic won't be able to cool the air any more than that. But if you are spraying on the ic, or im, or both, then you would have a positive reduction of intake temps below ambient.
Off topic ? How low can you get your intake temps by spraying the outside of the IC and IM?
Off topic ? How low can you get your intake temps by spraying the outside of the IC and IM?
Unless you really know your car (someone that tracks whether it be drag, autox....whatever), it would be really hard to tell 10 crank hp increase. However what would be noticeable is the quicker spool up if you had a TBE. Hehehe, but then again, a TBE also gets more than 10 crank hp.
The difference in the quicker spool, which is also affecting the power curve that would be seen on a dyno is the difference you would feel. At least in my opinion. Also holding the power closer to redline would be felt as well.
Not to swing from Warrtalon's **, but..... 10 crank hp is no where near enough to change drastic outcomes in a street race? Maybe you were just getting more comfortable driving your car? Improving without even knowing?
The difference in the quicker spool, which is also affecting the power curve that would be seen on a dyno is the difference you would feel. At least in my opinion. Also holding the power closer to redline would be felt as well.
Not to swing from Warrtalon's **, but..... 10 crank hp is no where near enough to change drastic outcomes in a street race? Maybe you were just getting more comfortable driving your car? Improving without even knowing?
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