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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:07 PM
  #16  
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so this flash works by OBDII to serial port to a computer program that you can change settings? or is it a one time thing that cant be changed until yo go and get it flashed again

coming from that damn neon and its ECU being unhackable to this day, im not familiar with that kind of tuning. what does come to mind when you guys are talking about this flash thing, is it something similar to an tunable EMS?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:09 PM
  #17  
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He already has an SAFC and was going to continue using it. I did the same thing with my Evo. I took my leftover SAFC from my DSM and put it on the Evo as my first mod, then ran 12.8@106.3. It is better than nothing, but not nearly as good as a flash.

96tsi, a 2.4L will make it spool much sooner, but 3400? I doubt it. The problem is people make spool claims that are never true. The true spool is where you see the torque curve peak on the dynosheet. On my STOCK TURBO EVO with STOCK FMIC and ported manifold, I hit full boost at 3800rpm at sea level. If you take my setup and add a non-BB 50-trim, it would be closer to 5k rpm. You can't base your spool claims off what you SEE on your tach when accelerating on the street. That is in accurate at best and not directly comparable to other cars, since it is not empirical and shown graphically. There are BB 50-trim dynosheets in the TurboTrix forum, and you can clearly see it not hitting full boost until the mid-4000s.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #18  
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I will repeat my earlier hint:

You can also self-tune with a flash using EcuFlash.
EcuFlash is capitalized on purpose, because it is a product name. It has its own sub-forum here on EvoM.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #19  
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when i speak of my full boost at 3400rpm. it comes from my datalogging

i datalog boost vs rpm vs throttle position vs AFR
real nice program zeitronix has that goes with their wideband control unit
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I will repeat my earlier hint:


EcuFlash is capitalized on purpose, because it is a product name. It has its own sub-forum here on EvoM.

heh sorry, i havent made it much further than this thread on the forums. excuse my newbie-ness
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #21  
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If you hit full boost at 3400rpm per the logger, then that is awesome, but you will be disappointed to find it in the late 4000s on the Evo, since BB 50-trims are doing it around 4500rpm or so. On my stock turbo, I've only barely begun to spool at 3400rpm.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:38 PM
  #22  
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well this is definitly good info to learn. I may hold off on the big turbo then untill i get a better build under the hood. and now that i googled and searched here about the reflash stuff. i think i could keep myself busy for a while on that heh.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #23  
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Yeah, be sure to read all the main threads in the EcuFlash forum. What you can do is get the cable for $90, the software for free, then get an e-flash from Dynoflash for $50. With that base flash, you can then tweak it to your heart's content, or just rely on Dynoflash to do all your custom flashing - up to you.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:16 PM
  #24  
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the "e-flash" would be just a base performance map?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #25  
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Yes. Or, you can get custom tuned for $375, and he gives you the map or maps, depending on if you do just pump gas or pump and race gas.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 04:45 PM
  #26  
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I would decide on mods first then go with the custom flash.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 05:12 PM
  #27  
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well as of right now im just going to get a 3" downpipe and go ahead and get the custom 3" pipe bent out to the apexi n1 muffler, get my temporary AEM UEGO wideband put in to see how bad the stock AFRs really are, start to turn up the boost until i get a leaner AFR, and get ahold of another piping guy and start in on my intercooler hardpipes and then go ahead and get my BOV put in


after that im going to dyno for results then start in on the fuel mods. here is my critical point in upgrading. Ill probably start off with the SAFC to keep me from going pig rich while slowly turning up the boost to see what the head can actually handle on the big 16g. if i can safely hit 25-26psi(should be the point right before i turn the turbo into a blowdryer) ill be going for the WGA mod so it will actually hold boost to redline.

then another dyno
by then ill have researched the reflashing and figure out what particular "brand" im going to go with and start work in tuning her. then one more dyno

If the car at that point is making anything decent im going to do my write up and go ahead and put the 50trim in.


once the car is in my hands, ill be doing the month long writeup for my friends shop for mod vs hp. ultimatly being the flagship advertisement for his shop since he and i will be doing all of the work.

once its all done im going to have a real fun street/strip toy to play with. after having 2 AWD DSMs, i really miss breaking all 4 loose doing digs on the street (closed course )
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:49 PM
  #28  
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That stuff isn't going to work.

- Just turning up the boost randomly won't make your AFRs lean out.
- The stock tune dips into the 9s up near 7k rpm.
- UICP is not helpful on the Evo - it was critical on DSMs
- LICP is very good for a little power and some spoolup
- You'll wish you used a different BOV
- Still no reason to use the SAFC when you can just flash yourself - it requires no research and no brand - it's called EcuFlash and it's free!!!!
- Not sure what you mean by seeing what the head can handle. What does that mean? You can't just crank the boost to 25-26psi unless you're on race gas, and you said you don't want to use race gas.
- It's not efficient beyond 25psi, but we run higher boost than that for a big torque spike and additional mid-range, but it naturally tapers down to a more efficient boost level at higher rpm (~20-22psi from a 26psi spike).
- It won't help to do a WGA mod, because the turbo only blows hot air at higher boost in higher gears. It simply cannot flow enough to keep up with the engine flow, so there's no reason to try to force the turbo to hold flat boost to redline - it will be counterproductive
- all the write-ups and mods have been done already. Everyone already knows what makes power and what doesn't, so I am not sure what your buddy's shop is trying to do. It's already been proven time and time again.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 09:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
That stuff isn't going to work.

- Just turning up the boost randomly won't make your AFRs lean out.
sure it will. more air without adding more fuel = lean
- The stock tune dips into the 9s up near 7k rpm.
all the more reason to up the boost and/or lean it out temporarily with an SAFC
- UICP is not helpful on the Evo - it was critical on DSMs
anything to free up the flow
- LICP is very good for a little power and some spoolup
anything to free up the flow
- You'll wish you used a different BOV
id like to know your reasoning on that
- Still no reason to use the SAFC when you can just flash yourself - it requires no research and no brand - it's called EcuFlash and it's free!!!!
cant tune something that i dont know how to tune. once i get some knowledge in the ecu maps, im probably going to use the reflash thing
- Not sure what you mean by seeing what the head can handle. What does that mean?
one of the first things to go on an overboost situation is something in your head
You can't just crank the boost to 25-26psi unless you're on race gas, and you said you don't want to use race gas.
thats why i said i wanted to see how much it would take
- It's not efficient beyond 25psi, but we run higher boost than that for a big torque spike and additional mid-range, but it naturally tapers down to a more efficient boost level at higher rpm (~20-22psi from a 26psi spike).
an efficient intercooler will solve alot of un needed hot air a turbo pushes out at near overboost limits. id rather stay at (IE)26psi to redline with a very efficient intercooler. any dyno will show that the hp/tq curve will be better than spiking then tapering off at a lower pressure
- It won't help to do a WGA mod, because the turbo only blows hot air at higher boost in higher gears. It simply cannot flow enough to keep up with the engine flow, so there's no reason to try to force the turbo to hold flat boost to redline - it will be counterproductive
WGA mod will help keep the boost from falling off torward redline. stock springs in waste gate actuators tend to be ****ty and give out after certain amounts of pressure/abuse. holding more boost at redline IS a good thing
- all the write-ups and mods have been done already. Everyone already knows what makes power and what doesn't, so I am not sure what your buddy's shop is trying to do. It's already been proven time and time again.
we are just trying to come up with our own upgrade records for our cars. and for the group of followers in our community to see what we are doing. not everyone comes to every car specific forum so we thought it would be fun to show people what we have and what mod gave what gain. nothing to hide here. nothing new going on. just having fun
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