Your opinion on the best TBE
Exhaust is exhaust, get a 3 inch tube with minimal (mandrel) bends. End of story. Why don't you just get some stainless steel tubing on ebay, have it mandrel bent and welded to the Evo's specs and then you can say YOU make the best exhaust 
Lets not argue about something as dumb as exhaust systems c'mon people. AMS, Buschur, perrin, works, whatever, they probably all make about the same power (+- 5HP) and probably all weigh the same (-+ 10 lbs). Big deal.
Lets not argue about something as dumb as exhaust systems c'mon people. AMS, Buschur, perrin, works, whatever, they probably all make about the same power (+- 5HP) and probably all weigh the same (-+ 10 lbs). Big deal.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Jul 22, 2006 at 05:01 PM.
Actually... how come most of the JDM catbacks and turboback exhausts are all 2.75" , not 3"?
It seems almost universal that the JDM exhausts are 2.75". Even the 5zigen, Greddy/Trust, etc. exhausts are all 2.75" piping.
I remember there was a exhaust shootout (links anyone) that showed the Trust/Greddy exhaust and 5zigen to produce among the best HP/torque gains, on par and better than the 3" exhausts.
Is there not much difference between 2.75" exhausts and 3" exhausts in terms of performance? Sure bigger has better "bragging" rights but it seems the performance gains are minimal, at least until you get to 500+ AWHP?
It seems almost universal that the JDM exhausts are 2.75". Even the 5zigen, Greddy/Trust, etc. exhausts are all 2.75" piping.
I remember there was a exhaust shootout (links anyone) that showed the Trust/Greddy exhaust and 5zigen to produce among the best HP/torque gains, on par and better than the 3" exhausts.
Is there not much difference between 2.75" exhausts and 3" exhausts in terms of performance? Sure bigger has better "bragging" rights but it seems the performance gains are minimal, at least until you get to 500+ AWHP?
Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Exhaust is exhaust, get a 3 inch tube with minimal (mandrel) bends. End of story. Why don't you just get some stainless steel tubing on ebay, have it mandrel bent and welded to the Evo's specs and then you can say YOU make the best exhaust Lets not argue about something as dumb as exhaust systems c'mon people. AMS, Buschur, perrin, works, whatever, they probably all make about the same power (+- 5HP) and probably all weigh the same (-+ 10 lbs). Big deal.
Lets not argue about something as dumb as exhaust systems c'mon people. AMS, Buschur, perrin, works, whatever, they probably all make about the same power (+- 5HP) and probably all weigh the same (-+ 10 lbs). Big deal.
I hate when people recommend Bushur. Sure it is a good made exhaust with very good quality but it looks absolutely hideous!! I can't believe how ugly that thing its.
Bushur parts on an Evo is like putting a Jun exhaust on a Mustang. I've been an Evo fan many years and i'm so used too seeing evo's with high qulaity japanese parts like Jun, HKS, Greddy, Apexi, etc. before they came to America and I just can't see myself putting Bushur parts on an Evo. I just laugh when I see people build a full drag evo. How many japanese drag evo's have you seen? The evo is not built for drag racing but does quite while with the amount of traction it receives. But the American culture has the "drive straight turn left Nascar fans " who like to drive in a straight line in the quickest amount of time possible. Then people wonder why they go through clutch's, transfer cases, and blown motors not properly tuned with too much boost.
Bushur parts on an Evo is like putting a Jun exhaust on a Mustang. I've been an Evo fan many years and i'm so used too seeing evo's with high qulaity japanese parts like Jun, HKS, Greddy, Apexi, etc. before they came to America and I just can't see myself putting Bushur parts on an Evo. I just laugh when I see people build a full drag evo. How many japanese drag evo's have you seen? The evo is not built for drag racing but does quite while with the amount of traction it receives. But the American culture has the "drive straight turn left Nascar fans " who like to drive in a straight line in the quickest amount of time possible. Then people wonder why they go through clutch's, transfer cases, and blown motors not properly tuned with too much boost.
The term "best" exhaust is relative to what you want in an exhaust. Is it power, looks, workmanship that you are looking for?
Here are my criteria for picking an exhaust:
-----Make sure the the TBE is 3 inch in diameter and does not narrow down at the cat. I made a mistake of getting a dp that narrows at the cat and had to fix it.
-----Make sure that the falanges are of thick metal and the exhaust pieces mate to each other using nuts and bolts. The slip type exhausts will eventually leak. Some say that they do not leak, but they either have not had their exhaust on the car long enoguh or there is a leak and they do not notice it. In any case why risk it?
-----Make sure that the downpipe uses the stock sprung bolts and the stock donut where it mates to the O2 housing. Mitsu uses this system and I trust their judgement. Avoid the dp that do not use the donut and have a flex pipe instead.
-----Make sure that the test pipe you use (unless you go with a HFC) is a true 3 inch test pipe. I made a mistake of getting one that said it was 3 inch but on the inside it was more like 2.5 inch. It is also a good idea to get a test pipe that has a bung installed in it. This way you will not have to install a bung in the downpipe when you want to use a wideband O2 sensor.
-----If you want your car to stay quite with a test pipe, then get a perforated test pipe. The only perforated 3 inch test pipe that I know of is made by Mrgan Racing.
-----If you are concerned about loud exhausts, then you will need to get one with a resonator in the mid-pipe especially if the muffler can is small like the one I have.
-----If you care about the looks of the exhaust, then make sure that you get one that is robot welded and not human welded and is fully stainless steel to boot.
Aside from the above, it is really a matter of tip size, sound preference and weight.
Here are my criteria for picking an exhaust:
-----Make sure the the TBE is 3 inch in diameter and does not narrow down at the cat. I made a mistake of getting a dp that narrows at the cat and had to fix it.
-----Make sure that the falanges are of thick metal and the exhaust pieces mate to each other using nuts and bolts. The slip type exhausts will eventually leak. Some say that they do not leak, but they either have not had their exhaust on the car long enoguh or there is a leak and they do not notice it. In any case why risk it?
-----Make sure that the downpipe uses the stock sprung bolts and the stock donut where it mates to the O2 housing. Mitsu uses this system and I trust their judgement. Avoid the dp that do not use the donut and have a flex pipe instead.
-----Make sure that the test pipe you use (unless you go with a HFC) is a true 3 inch test pipe. I made a mistake of getting one that said it was 3 inch but on the inside it was more like 2.5 inch. It is also a good idea to get a test pipe that has a bung installed in it. This way you will not have to install a bung in the downpipe when you want to use a wideband O2 sensor.
-----If you want your car to stay quite with a test pipe, then get a perforated test pipe. The only perforated 3 inch test pipe that I know of is made by Mrgan Racing.
-----If you are concerned about loud exhausts, then you will need to get one with a resonator in the mid-pipe especially if the muffler can is small like the one I have.
-----If you care about the looks of the exhaust, then make sure that you get one that is robot welded and not human welded and is fully stainless steel to boot.
Aside from the above, it is really a matter of tip size, sound preference and weight.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by lcakes05
you dont need a 3.5 exhaust to have a 500+whp car i know people w/ cars that put that down and they all have 3 inch exhausts. you need to do some research man you dont know what you are talking about, and why are you so set on perrin, you probally have one so its the best am i right. perrin isnt in the same league as ams, buschur or vishnu
Last edited by yooo autie; Jul 26, 2006 at 06:25 PM.
Originally Posted by DSMEVOLUTION
I hate when people recommend Bushur. Sure it is a good made exhaust with very good quality but it looks absolutely hideous!! I can't believe how ugly that thing its.
Bushur parts on an Evo is like putting a Jun exhaust on a Mustang. I've been an Evo fan many years and i'm so used too seeing evo's with high qulaity japanese parts like Jun, HKS, Greddy, Apexi, etc. before they came to America and I just can't see myself putting Bushur parts on an Evo. I just laugh when I see people build a full drag evo. How many japanese drag evo's have you seen? The evo is not built for drag racing but does quite while with the amount of traction it receives. But the American culture has the "drive straight turn left Nascar fans " who like to drive in a straight line in the quickest amount of time possible. Then people wonder why they go through clutch's, transfer cases, and blown motors not properly tuned with too much boost.
Bushur parts on an Evo is like putting a Jun exhaust on a Mustang. I've been an Evo fan many years and i'm so used too seeing evo's with high qulaity japanese parts like Jun, HKS, Greddy, Apexi, etc. before they came to America and I just can't see myself putting Bushur parts on an Evo. I just laugh when I see people build a full drag evo. How many japanese drag evo's have you seen? The evo is not built for drag racing but does quite while with the amount of traction it receives. But the American culture has the "drive straight turn left Nascar fans " who like to drive in a straight line in the quickest amount of time possible. Then people wonder why they go through clutch's, transfer cases, and blown motors not properly tuned with too much boost.
Exhaust is NOT exhaust. There is something called quality control and details. ****ty stainless steel TBEs are made of low grade steel. Some exhaust, even brand name ones, have weak designed exhaust hanger and/or exhaust hangers that break. Your right that most 3" exhaust perform the same and weight about the same, but some will fit perfect, not rattle (with no spacers/washers), never break a hanger, never leak and will last a life time, and some wont. That why exhaust is NOT just exhaust.
I bought a used BR dp for 160, and had a custom made dp-back with one magnaflow resonator and an o2 fix, all mandrel bent piping with a nice polished magnaflow tip for 480. Total cost for a true, straight through 3" exhaust that sounds great: 640.
