Reliable mod list???
Reliable mod list???
I thought I was going to be able to afford to throw a few mods on my car some time ago, but a few things came up that prevented me from doing so. Now that I will have even more money to work with here soon, I decided I want to come up with the complete mod list so that it can all be ordered at once.
I'm looking for safe, consistent power. Nothing crazy, but enough to tell the difference. Mid to high 300's will work for me. I want to be able to go to the track sometimes, but still be able to get around on the street.
I want to make sure I won't be throwing any CEL's or anything of the sort and that my car will run as close to stock as possible (as far as driveability goes.) This will be all the performance mods I plan on doing (other than upgrading the clutch and flywheel.)
So far my list goes as follows:
Buschur Stage 1
Turbo Trix 280/280 cams
HKS Cam Gears
ARP Head Studs
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
That's about all I have as far as a list goes. If their is anything else I might need, someone please let me know. I don't really want any more power adders than what I have listed, but if their is another part that will make the group run better then I definitely want to know. Like I said, I want to make it as safe and reliable as possible!!!
I'm looking for safe, consistent power. Nothing crazy, but enough to tell the difference. Mid to high 300's will work for me. I want to be able to go to the track sometimes, but still be able to get around on the street.
I want to make sure I won't be throwing any CEL's or anything of the sort and that my car will run as close to stock as possible (as far as driveability goes.) This will be all the performance mods I plan on doing (other than upgrading the clutch and flywheel.)
So far my list goes as follows:
Buschur Stage 1
Turbo Trix 280/280 cams
HKS Cam Gears
ARP Head Studs
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
That's about all I have as far as a list goes. If their is anything else I might need, someone please let me know. I don't really want any more power adders than what I have listed, but if their is another part that will make the group run better then I definitely want to know. Like I said, I want to make it as safe and reliable as possible!!!
You want to make "SAFE and RELIABLE" power? I am reading that alot recently, and I have yet to come across a post where someone wants to make "Unsafe and worthless" power.
Find a "tuner shop", stick with them till the end, (of your car or wallet). they would tell you which path to take, and stay on that path. good luck.
Find a "tuner shop", stick with them till the end, (of your car or wallet). they would tell you which path to take, and stay on that path. good luck.
^ Yup. But be ready for unseen expenses if you're cutting the budget down too low. I had a "safe/reliable" 300awhp, 315awtq car for 15,000 miles (only the last 2000 miles at that power). Now I have a warranty-less paperweight in my garage waiting for $14,000 worth of mods to arrive. tehehe.
Originally Posted by Stew
^ Yup. But be ready for unseen expenses if you're cutting the budget down too low. I had a "safe/reliable" 300awhp, 315awtq car for 15,000 miles (only the last 2000 miles at that power). Now I have a warranty-less paperweight in my garage waiting for $14,000 worth of mods to arrive. tehehe.
I was only making 270hp when my car died.
MBC
intake
DP/stock cat/exhaust
Tune
She spun a bearing at 35k miles and $11,000 and 3 months later my car was back up and running.
There is no such thing as reliable power. This brings the classic line to mind for most cars "Cheap, reliable, fast....pick two" and in the case of the Evos "cross your fingers and hope for the best"
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Might want to read up on the TT cams before making that decision. They have not proven to make any power on customer cars yet. One particular customer was quite unhappy in fact.
I recommend the WT/BR stage 1, BR LICP, Walbro 255, BR O2 housing, BR ported/coated manifold, then an upgrade to a custom flash on top of the included base flash from the package. Right now, the NC folks are trying to setup a Dynoflash tuning trip in the near future, so you could jump in on that to get your custom tune. You need to wait to see if the GSC cams for the IX make power, because they are only $599 shipped. The TT cams are $900 and frankly aren't making the expected power. Cam gears can be useful, but they don't make power so much as they move the powerband. You have to know how to use them, where to set them, and get tuned for those settings specifically.
Btw, saying you want to be so safe and reliable and like stock with few mods, then saying you'd be "happy" with mid-to-high 300s is a bit optimistic. Maybe you meant mid-to-low 300s. High 300s is at the limit of the stock turbo and requires some fairly high boost to achieve...usually requires alky or race gas.
I recommend the WT/BR stage 1, BR LICP, Walbro 255, BR O2 housing, BR ported/coated manifold, then an upgrade to a custom flash on top of the included base flash from the package. Right now, the NC folks are trying to setup a Dynoflash tuning trip in the near future, so you could jump in on that to get your custom tune. You need to wait to see if the GSC cams for the IX make power, because they are only $599 shipped. The TT cams are $900 and frankly aren't making the expected power. Cam gears can be useful, but they don't make power so much as they move the powerband. You have to know how to use them, where to set them, and get tuned for those settings specifically.
Btw, saying you want to be so safe and reliable and like stock with few mods, then saying you'd be "happy" with mid-to-high 300s is a bit optimistic. Maybe you meant mid-to-low 300s. High 300s is at the limit of the stock turbo and requires some fairly high boost to achieve...usually requires alky or race gas.
Originally Posted by nrcooled
I was only making 270hp when my car died.
MBC
intake
DP/stock cat/exhaust
Tune
She spun a bearing at 35k miles and $11,000 and 3 months later my car was back up and running.
There is no such thing as reliable power. This brings the classic line to mind for most cars "Cheap, reliable, fast....pick two" and in the case of the Evos "cross your fingers and hope for the best"
MBC
intake
DP/stock cat/exhaust
Tune
She spun a bearing at 35k miles and $11,000 and 3 months later my car was back up and running.
There is no such thing as reliable power. This brings the classic line to mind for most cars "Cheap, reliable, fast....pick two" and in the case of the Evos "cross your fingers and hope for the best"
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Might want to read up on the TT cams before making that decision. They have not proven to make any power on customer cars yet. One particular customer was quite unhappy in fact.
I recommend the WT/BR stage 1, BR LICP, Walbro 255, BR O2 housing, BR ported/coated manifold, then an upgrade to a custom flash on top of the included base flash from the package. Right now, the NC folks are trying to setup a Dynoflash tuning trip in the near future, so you could jump in on that to get your custom tune. You need to wait to see if the GSC cams for the IX make power, because they are only $599 shipped. The TT cams are $900 and frankly aren't making the expected power. Cam gears can be useful, but they don't make power so much as they move the powerband. You have to know how to use them, where to set them, and get tuned for those settings specifically.
Btw, saying you want to be so safe and reliable and like stock with few mods, then saying you'd be "happy" with mid-to-high 300s is a bit optimistic. Maybe you meant mid-to-low 300s. High 300s is at the limit of the stock turbo and requires some fairly high boost to achieve...usually requires alky or race gas.
I recommend the WT/BR stage 1, BR LICP, Walbro 255, BR O2 housing, BR ported/coated manifold, then an upgrade to a custom flash on top of the included base flash from the package. Right now, the NC folks are trying to setup a Dynoflash tuning trip in the near future, so you could jump in on that to get your custom tune. You need to wait to see if the GSC cams for the IX make power, because they are only $599 shipped. The TT cams are $900 and frankly aren't making the expected power. Cam gears can be useful, but they don't make power so much as they move the powerband. You have to know how to use them, where to set them, and get tuned for those settings specifically.
Btw, saying you want to be so safe and reliable and like stock with few mods, then saying you'd be "happy" with mid-to-high 300s is a bit optimistic. Maybe you meant mid-to-low 300s. High 300s is at the limit of the stock turbo and requires some fairly high boost to achieve...usually requires alky or race gas.
I've seen Evo's locally really respond well to Cams, and I wasn't sure if anyone else made MIVEC cams yet other than TT, that's why I listed them.
So, if I wanted to shoot for around 350AWHP should I get all the things you listed?? Money is no real object, but I don't want to have to buy stuff I don't need.
Originally Posted by Stew
haha. Yea I had the same mods, minus the cat and with the bigger hotside of the 05. What software are you running with your 35R? Got a 50 trim en-route for less laggy response eh???
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To the OP - Just make sure that you understand that you are increasing the stress on the car and also changing parameters of the original engineering of the Evo. Make sure that you take the proper precautions when running additional power and also ensure that you have a way to monitor what the car is doing.
Also, don't ignore the "hiccups" of the car when driving. If you notice something isn't right start logging ASAP and figure out what's going on with the car. At a minimum have some type of logging capability (timing, boost, RPM, fueling, etc.), guages (oil pressure, oil temp, EGT, boost), and a WBo2. This extra money now can save you a ton of cash latter. Take it from the guys that have spent a lot of money rebuilding their evos instead of joining the ranks of "My evo died today" threads
Originally Posted by SRTRaceR04
Yeah, I definitely want the BR Stage 1. I've had my mind made up on that one for a month or so now. And when I said "safe and reliable" I meant along the lines of not maxing out the turbo /and or other parts of the car. And I wrote the power part wrong, I am interested in low-to-mid 300's.
I've seen Evo's locally really respond well to Cams, and I wasn't sure if anyone else made MIVEC cams yet other than TT, that's why I listed them.
So, if I wanted to shoot for around 350AWHP should I get all the things you listed?? Money is no real object, but I don't want to have to buy stuff I don't need.
I've seen Evo's locally really respond well to Cams, and I wasn't sure if anyone else made MIVEC cams yet other than TT, that's why I listed them.
So, if I wanted to shoot for around 350AWHP should I get all the things you listed?? Money is no real object, but I don't want to have to buy stuff I don't need.
The parts I listed can get you where you want to be on 93oct without maxing the turbo and without wasting money. Only TT has cams right this moment, but GSC's are about to hit the market for $300 less after testing is complete.
My IX just has turbo-back exhaust and a custom Vishnu flash. Gave me 60whp/70ftlbs at the wheels over stock. Feels faster than an 03 Stage 1+ car and is proving to be lot more reliable.
Originally Posted by nrcooled
I had a stock 9.8t on the car when the bearing spun. The 35R has never really appealed to me much. I am happy to have my AMS 50Trim on its way though (it's getting built by AMS right now)
To the OP - Just make sure that you understand that you are increasing the stress on the car and also changing parameters of the original engineering of the Evo. Make sure that you take the proper precautions when running additional power and also ensure that you have a way to monitor what the car is doing.
Also, don't ignore the "hiccups" of the car when driving. If you notice something isn't right start logging ASAP and figure out what's going on with the car. At a minimum have some type of logging capability (timing, boost, RPM, fueling, etc.), guages (oil pressure, oil temp, EGT, boost), and a WBo2. This extra money now can save you a ton of cash latter. Take it from the guys that have spent a lot of money rebuilding their evos instead of joining the ranks of "My evo died today" threads
To the OP - Just make sure that you understand that you are increasing the stress on the car and also changing parameters of the original engineering of the Evo. Make sure that you take the proper precautions when running additional power and also ensure that you have a way to monitor what the car is doing.
Also, don't ignore the "hiccups" of the car when driving. If you notice something isn't right start logging ASAP and figure out what's going on with the car. At a minimum have some type of logging capability (timing, boost, RPM, fueling, etc.), guages (oil pressure, oil temp, EGT, boost), and a WBo2. This extra money now can save you a ton of cash latter. Take it from the guys that have spent a lot of money rebuilding their evos instead of joining the ranks of "My evo died today" threads
I'm planning on going with the Stewart Warner gauges because I've read a lot of good reviews about them. I'm honestly not a huge fan of gauges.....well atleast not the flashy ones. As long as their accurate and tells me what I need to know then I'm good.
So which WBo2 sensor should I go with?? They make one that fits in a 52mm bezel right?? I have zero experience with wideband sensors, so any info is appreciated!! I read somewhere that some ECU's have problems with the different voltage that is supplied by a Wideband o2.....is that true with the Evo?
Last question, can all the gauges be put in before I put the mods in?? I would like to put all the mods in at one time, and all the gauges in at one time. But which time is better to put the gauges in: before or after mods?? Thanks!!!!
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I specified the WT/BR package, because it's different than the regular BR stg1. Both are good, but they are not the same.
The parts I listed can get you where you want to be on 93oct without maxing the turbo and without wasting money. Only TT has cams right this moment, but GSC's are about to hit the market for $300 less after testing is complete.
The parts I listed can get you where you want to be on 93oct without maxing the turbo and without wasting money. Only TT has cams right this moment, but GSC's are about to hit the market for $300 less after testing is complete.
Originally Posted by SRTRaceR04
I thought I was going to be able to afford to throw a few mods on my car some time ago, but a few things came up that prevented me from doing so. Now that I will have even more money to work with here soon, I decided I want to come up with the complete mod list so that it can all be ordered at once.
I'm looking for safe, consistent power. Nothing crazy, but enough to tell the difference. Mid to high 300's will work for me. I want to be able to go to the track sometimes, but still be able to get around on the street.
I want to make sure I won't be throwing any CEL's or anything of the sort and that my car will run as close to stock as possible (as far as driveability goes.) This will be all the performance mods I plan on doing (other than upgrading the clutch and flywheel.)
So far my list goes as follows:
Buschur Stage 1
Turbo Trix 280/280 cams
HKS Cam Gears
ARP Head Studs
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
That's about all I have as far as a list goes. If their is anything else I might need, someone please let me know. I don't really want any more power adders than what I have listed, but if their is another part that will make the group run better then I definitely want to know. Like I said, I want to make it as safe and reliable as possible!!!
I'm looking for safe, consistent power. Nothing crazy, but enough to tell the difference. Mid to high 300's will work for me. I want to be able to go to the track sometimes, but still be able to get around on the street.
I want to make sure I won't be throwing any CEL's or anything of the sort and that my car will run as close to stock as possible (as far as driveability goes.) This will be all the performance mods I plan on doing (other than upgrading the clutch and flywheel.)
So far my list goes as follows:
Buschur Stage 1
Turbo Trix 280/280 cams
HKS Cam Gears
ARP Head Studs
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
That's about all I have as far as a list goes. If their is anything else I might need, someone please let me know. I don't really want any more power adders than what I have listed, but if their is another part that will make the group run better then I definitely want to know. Like I said, I want to make it as safe and reliable as possible!!!