All GT 37R owners please speak up
Yes you would need to build the motor. A 37R is to large for a stock motor. If you want to stick with the stock motor look at something like the 20G-9LT or even the 3065 would be pushing it on race gas and high boost. ALL of the big turbo cars that we put out have built motors. The stock motor is good for roughly 500 to the wheels.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
Last edited by Jrod@Buschur; Aug 14, 2007 at 07:01 AM.
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Great answer, I think it really comes down to what you are going to do with the car. If your going to do drag and high way pulls a built 2.0 with a 37R and race gas is a great combo, if you are going to do a auto x, a 2.3 and a 50 trim or GT35R is a great setup.
I was making 500 whp on a 2.3 liter 50 trim, it's a great combination, spool up is great but I did a lot normal driving and the occasional drag race. If I was doing nothing but high way pulls I would have built a 2.0 and the 37R myself.
I hope you have a built trans, t-case and a clutch in your price of the build.
J-Rod is right, the 35R and the 37R are both great turbos however they really don't awaken til race gas or at least meth injection is used.
Good luck keep us posted.
Dan Bajas was running a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter with a 37R and he was running mid to high 9's.
Curt Brown was running low 10's or high 9's on a 35R.....
Just depends on what you are looking to do with the car.......
I was making 500 whp on a 2.3 liter 50 trim, it's a great combination, spool up is great but I did a lot normal driving and the occasional drag race. If I was doing nothing but high way pulls I would have built a 2.0 and the 37R myself.
I hope you have a built trans, t-case and a clutch in your price of the build.
J-Rod is right, the 35R and the 37R are both great turbos however they really don't awaken til race gas or at least meth injection is used.
Good luck keep us posted.
Dan Bajas was running a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter with a 37R and he was running mid to high 9's.
Curt Brown was running low 10's or high 9's on a 35R.....
Just depends on what you are looking to do with the car.......
Yes you would need to build the motor. A 37R is to large for a stock motor. If you want to stick with the stock motor look at something like the 20G-9LT or even the 3065 would be pushing it on race gas and high boost. ALL of the big turbo cars that we put out have built motors. The stock motor is good for roughly 500 to the wheels.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
Yes you would need to build the motor. A 37R is to large for a stock motor. If you want to stick with the stock motor look at something like the 20G-9LT or even the 3065 would be pushing it on race gas and high boost. ALL of the big turbo cars that we put out have built motors. The stock motor is good for roughly 500 to the wheels.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
For example..... My car with the 3065 went 11.04 @ 128mph full weight, 92 degree heat, 1.74 60', 100% STOCK block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... It was putting down 462 to the wheels with that turbo kit, our stages 1-4 and a AEM EMS. I was shifting at around 8000-8500 which isnt a very smart thing to do on a stock block at that power level. I changed out the internals just to be safe and because I wanted to step it up. There are people running a little over 500 to the wheels on the stock block but its only a matter of time before something lets go.
Anytime you are making big power on a stock engine you take the chance of something breaking. Mainly a stock rod or rod bolt. It is ALOT cheaper in the long run to do it right the first time instead of the next time. Not to mention a brand new block core will run you about $1800. Thats EMPTY.
Me recommendation would be that if you do not have the money to do the engine and turbo kit at the same time...... do the engine first and then the turbo kit. The wait will be worth it and your check book will love you later on as well.
The 2.0 will allow you to rev the engine out which is what large turbos like. The 2.3 will help on spool up but will limit your RPM range to work with. The stroker will limit you to a SAFE rpm range of about 7800-8000 where as our stage 3 2.0 will be good for at LEAST 9000. Its personal preference on what you would want out of the setup.
What will you be using for tuning? I would not recommend running a turbo of this size on a flash. A standalone is the only way to go.
Let me know what else I can help with. I'll be glad to lend a hand.
.
Great answer, I think it really comes down to what you are going to do with the car. If your going to do drag and high way pulls a built 2.0 with a 37R and race gas is a great combo, if you are going to do a auto x, a 2.3 and a 50 trim or GT35R is a great setup.
I was making 500 whp on a 2.3 liter 50 trim, it's a great combination, spool up is great but I did a lot normal driving and the occasional drag race. If I was doing nothing but high way pulls I would have built a 2.0 and the 37R myself.
I hope you have a built trans, t-case and a clutch in your price of the build.
J-Rod is right, the 35R and the 37R are both great turbos however they really don't awaken til race gas or at least meth injection is used.
Good luck keep us posted.
Dan Bajas was running a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter with a 37R and he was running mid to high 9's.
Curt Brown was running low 10's or high 9's on a 35R.....
Just depends on what you are looking to do with the car.......
I was making 500 whp on a 2.3 liter 50 trim, it's a great combination, spool up is great but I did a lot normal driving and the occasional drag race. If I was doing nothing but high way pulls I would have built a 2.0 and the 37R myself.
I hope you have a built trans, t-case and a clutch in your price of the build.
J-Rod is right, the 35R and the 37R are both great turbos however they really don't awaken til race gas or at least meth injection is used.
Good luck keep us posted.
Dan Bajas was running a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter with a 37R and he was running mid to high 9's.
Curt Brown was running low 10's or high 9's on a 35R.....
Just depends on what you are looking to do with the car.......
Curt Brown was running low 9's on 35r! He's an animal!
That was a gutted, cut up race car, slicks, etc.... . Not really a comparison to the RS that is daily driven, 17" radial tires (no slicks), has minor weight reduction (nothing is cut out), stock intake manifold, etc.....
I am not taking anything away from Curt, his driving ability or his car but I just wanted to make sure that was put out there that this wasnt REALLY a street car when it ran 9's on the 35R.
I am not taking anything away from Curt, his driving ability or his car but I just wanted to make sure that was put out there that this wasnt REALLY a street car when it ran 9's on the 35R.
That was a gutted, cut up race car, slicks, etc.... . Not really a comparison to the RS that is daily driven, 17" radial tires (no slicks), has minor weight reduction (nothing is cut out), stock intake manifold, etc.....
I am not taking anything away from Curt, his driving ability or his car but I just wanted to make sure that was put out there that this wasnt REALLY a street car when it ran 9's on the 35R.
I am not taking anything away from Curt, his driving ability or his car but I just wanted to make sure that was put out there that this wasnt REALLY a street car when it ran 9's on the 35R.
Jrod, your totally right i was just clarifying from what the other poster was saying.
Davids rs is amazing i wasn't comparing the 2 to be honest. 9.7's with 148 traps in a daily driven 35r is insane!
Carry on and back on topic!
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Well Jrod I just learned more from you then I think I have learned in all my schooling years (lol). I keep reading your post and its like the more I reread it the more I learn. As far as what I want to do with the car its pretty much boils down to street/track. As I mentioned eariler I only drive the car 1-2 times a week and auto x is something that im not really into. As far as tuning goes I actually have a AEM EMS with the sensors thats sitting around in storage only with all my other parts. I was going to sell it but I guess if I make a move on a 37R I should keep it around. To answer 2003lancerevo8 question at the moment my transmission and TC are all stock. However, I am running a Excedy Twin Plate clutch and I have been looking into Shep. Racing Tc and Transmissions.
Well Jrod I just learned more from you then I think I have learned in all my schooling years (lol). I keep reading your post and its like the more I reread it the more I learn. As far as what I want to do with the car its pretty much boils down to street/track. As I mentioned eariler I only drive the car 1-2 times a week and auto x is something that im not really into. As far as tuning goes I actually have a AEM EMS with the sensors thats sitting around in storage only with all my other parts. I was going to sell it but I guess if I make a move on a 37R I should keep it around. To answer 2003lancerevo8 question at the moment my transmission and TC are all stock. However, I am running a Excedy Twin Plate clutch and I have been looking into Shep. Racing Tc and Transmissions.
Glad to know you will be using the AEM. Please think about building the motor before stepping up to a turbo of that size. It WILL be the right decision. As for a turbo choice thats a bit smaller than the 37R you may also want to look at the new HTA35R turbo that we will be releasing shortly. That is what is ran on the RS. Its BAD!
Keep in mind we also do TC's and tranny's. https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...oducts_id=1019
If you would like to discuss more options please give us a call here at the shop and ask to speak with Daniel here is our service manager as well as he is the one that does the upgrades for the TC and Trans. The number here at the shop is 440-839-1900.
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Jrod from what I have researched when you go with a storker kit you bring the revs down (as you said) and you increase torque. In my situation sould I just build the 2.0 where I can rev it out or look into storker?
We finished a 37R car not long ago with the 2.3 but the customer had us tune it on E85 and all I can say is WOW! It was the fastest thing I personally have ever driven. It was just a flat out beast.
Here is a link to that car: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=281021
And another one.....
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=264844
We call the 37R a T67 P-trim which is actually its correct name just so there is no confusion.