The car already has a dyno tune from buschur. I can't see me sending out for another one right away spooln. Thank you for the links Chris. To your credit I have seen quite a bit of people singing your tuning praise's as I've stumbled around ECU Flash threads. I meant no disrespect to the guys rendering services in the form of tuning. I know I came off the cuff a bit with my attitude towards it. But I'm just a DIY guy. Its my DSM roots. I kinda feel like you need to learn everything you can about what your doing. And DIY. Otherwise, how much credit can you really take for your car hauling ***? (I've always thumbed my nose at the guys who walk into a shop and slap down a fist full of cash and then take credit for "their" car) For the casual "___" owner sure. But I'm not the casual type. I build my own motors, do all my own wrenching and tuning. Always have. So I take pride in doing what I do, success or failure.

The format is new, but the concepts are the same. I'm sure I'll catch on eventually. I'd spend the money on a flash if someone would give me a great crash course instead of actually tuning my car. That would be worth the money to me.

Thanks for the continued help gentleman.

I fly out on the 30th to pick up my Evo. Can't friggin wait!

 

I completely understand...when I was getting started many years ago I wanted to be able to service my own car from head to toe so I could spend my money on the go fast bits instead of repair bills.

when I'm tuning a customer's car I let them know where I'm making a change, how much and why I'm changing it there. By the end of the session they are telling me where they want me to make a change sometimes because they've figured it all out

 

We may be able to work something out. If you're willing to show me the ropes a bit while we go. If you've been looking in the ECU Flash forum (I'm sure you have) theres a thread on going speed density within the stock ecu.

(There's is on a 9)
I am buying an 8. You get that crackalackin' on an 8. And, where do I send the money?

Reason being I was already looking into MaftPro as an option. And I have to admit, am completely fascinated by the level of insanity guys are pulling off on the stock ecu. There are some ingenious bastiches running around playing with code on these cars and I'm digging it.

I read the scaling thread. But I'm still not grasping something I think.
The inj latency adj is basically altering inj pulsewidth? Global fuel adjustments incorporated into ecuflash would make this a f'n snap. It wouldn't pull your tables off track like is currently being done. The highest I could go was 770/ on the scaling too. I read you go smaller, and then adjust something else to bring the rest in. (using ltft's just like dsmlink) I have FIC 950's I will be using. Again, its still a bit blurry on what I need to do. Maybe the better question to ask, is can I overrun the stock injectors on the stock turbo on pump gas? (do I even need to put them in for now?) No need to complicate things if no absolute need is present.

Man, I know this motor inside and out. But the differences from DSM to Evo are making me relearn everything.

 

injector latency = dead time and you would need to fill them in according to what your injectors call for first then there is a global injector scaling option in ecuflash which you'll start off smaller than the injectors are rated so that you begin a little rich and work your way up until the fuel trims are close to ideal. Some tweaking to the injector latency at various voltages may be necessary to perfect it.

I used the stock injectors until I put on the turbo... they were fine with the FMIC, cams, raised boost etc...on pump gas

 

I get it now. Thats your dt adjustment. I'm used to that as well. Is there any way to configure that based off what I already have that I know. In DSMlink dt was represented in ~us 315 (For FIC 950cc)

global was simply a slider -% bar. Recommended settings were like, -52% / 315us
My settings were -53% and some fuel out at given rpm points with a final Ltft or about + 3% matching. A/F 10.80's/11.2 under boost.

But that was based off of 450cc/min inj.
Calculating this stuff mathematically is easier for me than trying to mess with targeted af/ ratio's and charts dialing them in. What relationship does the scaling have with global?

How is it calculated (or) / What is it doing?

 

It's one thing to tune your car for basic performance parts like you have. It's another to tune a 500 whp beast yourself. Where are you going to do it at for one? Third gear pulls on the highway with 500 whp might be a little "risky." Another thing is you have to take into account all sorts of things and when adding a new part how it will affect your ecu. Honestly, with a cammed evo and bolt ons, the stock ecu is fine. But if you're looking to go way beyond, you'll do better off with at least a utec or better yet an aem. And those you cannot tune by yourself. It's just way too complicated. And besides, most pro tuners can nail a tune down in about 1/200th the time it would take you do it yourself.

 

By the way, where in the Burgh are you?

 

no need to calculate, just give the car what it wants based on the feedback it gives you... fill in the appropriate latencies for your size/brand injectors and start with a conservative CC size for the scale, maybe 20% smaller than it's advertised to flow. Check the low/mid fuel trims after it's warmed up and you've done some driving and see which side you're on and adjust the global (scale) appropriately until you get the trims close to center for starters. If the trims are acceptable, move on to the high octane fuel map and dial in the AFR where you want it.

 

Not true, I have a close friend that has run standalones for years on a conquest / and now DSM. From TECII up. He also has a friend thats a professional standalone distr, and tuner. So anything I encounter I can get free help with. I don't think you get the point I'm trying to drive home. We TUNE his 560+ hp DSM on the road. My other buddies T-70 built motor'd custom gutted beast, ON THE ROAD. If the car sees the road, it gets tuned there. That car is d/d. So are mine. My car was tuned on the road. With the years and $ spent all around typically I can call someone that drags or tunes professionally and get an answer if we get stuck. I'm not trying to say I'm some big shot, but I've done my part at extending my car network as best I can.

You're still stuck on the concept of its better to throw money at the situation than to learn how to do it yourself. This attitude in general saddens me. Not a personal shot at you, but dude, take some initiative. Learn. That's what I'm trying to do.

I know I have my noob stamp on my account but I'm no stranger to Mitsubishi's that haul ***. I'm no super tuner, and especially not with the differences I'm encountering with Evo's. But I'll get there. Mine is not just a desire to "have" a good tune. But the ability to administer it.

I am 20 miles NE of dt Pittsburgh. Natrona Heights.

And yes, you CAN tune a utec / AEM yourself. I pulled 4/10'ths off my buddy's SRT4 1/4 with his glorified afc (dtec). In a half hour. no knock, 24 psi, crappy street tires. BB50 trim. 12.7's @ 118mph. 93 octane, and what I must regretfully add, a sub par driver on a stock clutch. Again, tuned on route 28 at 1-2am. And there's room to go. I just wanted to tweak his pump maps to raise response and get it to really haul up top for the track the next day. His best was a 13.1 at a better track (MIR) PRP sucks. This is easily a 400hp car. (badly in need of DR's and motor mounts) The turbo will push out 52lb/min

but I digress...

I plan on having the Evo thru multiple stages of life. Bolt-on /ecu flash evo ---> built motor'd built tranny AEM aw DR's evo. But I start at the bottom. As buying it is breaking my wallet.

 

Almost forgot, Chris you continue to rock.

 

Say hello to my little friend...





Its already got some toys.
Buschur TBE (no cat)
Hallman MBC
Walboro 255
Buschur deluxe FMIC, UICP, LICP
Forge bov (recirc)
K&N filter (stock snorkel pipe)
HKS 272 cams
Clear cam cover
samco rad hoses
Buschur small battery kit
chrome heat shield
GReddy boost/Oil pres gauges
Innovate WB & Gauge
CF air diversion panel
Tein S tech springs
Evo VII tails
Evo Dave black headlights

And a full Buschur dyno tune.

I f***in' love this car!

I have 2 areas I'd like to address in short order on the car.
Maybe someone can help.

A: The shifter on these cars is just to easy to go thru the gears in a millisecond. But I think my previous driving habits are preloading the driveshaft... coming into a gear too hard. The rear diff SLAMS so hard. Will the Buschur or AMS rear mustache bar fix this? energy suspension bushings or solid aluminum? This sh** needs to stop ASAP.

B: The car surges so bad at half throttle. Drive it easy; fine. Drive it WOT; omfg great! Anything over 35% throttle and it just goes from spool sound to ca-thuk ca-thuk ca-thuk... and bogs slightly. My buddies SRT4 did this sh** when we put the Greddy Profec B sII on it. Why is it doing this, and what do I have to buy/tune/do to stop it?

 

I have the same problem with the forge bov, went back to stock, the car is actually faster and it's drives 200% better

 

I've always hated their products. We went thru a nightmare mess on my buddies SRT4 with one too. Its stupid ricey loud!

HKS recirculated, or MR metal bov?
Synapse?

 

the HKS should be fine but the better bang for the buck is the MR metal bov

 

Mellon: Are you running stock injectors on your car? I don't see larger injectors listed in your sig. With 280's, the Green, and on 93 octane you would be over maxing the stock nozzles, wouldn't you? Just wondering