oops, I need to update my sig.. sorry about that. 680cc precisions for now but I might step up if I decided to run race gas. I am planning on getting a water injection kit and might experiment with meth, but I'm trying to stay away from that 300-400 a month c16 habit I once had with my Stealth.

 

blanket fix?

j/k...

I was linked in another thread about tapping the charge pipe for the mbc line instead of having it tee'd off the bov line. I have a hallman pro MBC. And thats where they tapped it in. For some reason I thought it wasn't a bleeder mbc... ?

I wonder if thats all it is?

I did the same thing on the DSM, and never tapped into the bov line for the mbc because I had a turbo XS one I knew was a bleeder.

Might be worth a shot since I don't have a stocker laying around? You think?

 

You are right .. the Hallman is a closed ball and spring MBC. Sourcing from the charge pipe could help with the part throttle response.

It's good that you've caught on that Chris knows his stuff when it comes to tuning. He's a good man to listen to.

Hop on over to the ECUFlash forum if you have any other specific questions. We love to help out fellow DIY-ers there.

 

I don't see how the charge pipe would help then if its not a bleeder?
It might increase the available signal in the line by taking a dependant off of it...
Maybe it is just a pos bov. Which sucks, cause its good at herding slow traffic ahead of me.
It surges and drops boost at anything over 50% throttle. low throttle ok, WOT ok. But you can't roll into it. It bucks.

I need a cable first. Then... you may regret you said that.

First off I need to see what Buschur did. Then compare that with (IDFK, I don't have anything to compare to ) and see what I need to adjust.

I've been trying to read in there as much as I can find time to. I've found some things I definately want to do. But, haven't quite gotten the hang of the program yet as I haven't used it. None of its really sinking in. Like I see some of the patches, and quite honestly I have no idea how I would even do that. (yes I know... I'm a sToopId newb)

Chris I'm sure is a busy busy boy. And I appreciate him taking time to drop a few helpful posts at me. Actually all of you that have.

 

check out the vendor/review section of this forum and search for threads started by me and you should see the review of the Forge DV...patty from Forge stepped in and is working with me on a solution.

 

Bleeder or not, there is still a pressure shift when the MBC cracks open to regulate the pressure. A bleeder valve would be a constant pressure loss where a ball and spring would be an instant shift. I would think that the quick pressure change out of the blue would be more problematic. Now, if that's your problem or not is a different story. Good luck with a solution.

 

Problem is the forge is mounted in the intake, instead of the upper charge pipe. Why this is a problem, besides the fact it makes me go "wtf?" every time I look at it... it situates it basically in my front fan. Which just so happens to be the adjustment portion of the bov riding on the fan if its set where it needs to be. I turned it softer anyway. And alot of the ptb/surge sh** went away. It quieted down some too. (bov noise) So much for unleashing my inner ricer...

This leads me to believe its just a sh**y bov. And / or adjusted incorrectly. Why its not mounted on the charge piping... (and has a hose running to it from the buschur UICP) I have no idea. Again, I've had the car 5 days. I've got some sorting out to do since everything was done previous to me owning it.

I moved the Mitsu gauge panel back up top too. It was so pointless on the bottom DIN.

Still ticking like a **** too. Making me nuts. Changed out the brand new K&N oil filter I just put on to a mobil 1. (from a 3kgt M1-104) which matches the size and shape of the OEM one I took off. Added mobil 1 15-50 in to replace the brand new 10-30 I just put in that I lost in the filter swap.

Still ticks.
IDFK but its making me insane. my 23k mile evo ticks, and my 172k mile DSM doesn't.

Go figure...